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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2000 Disco in late 02 that was a lease turn in vehicle. I live in Tn but the truck was driven in Florida for the first three years of its life. Now Ive had it 3 years and its starting to show surface rust underneath. Im assuming from the salty Florida air. The fender wells are pretty rusty and some spots behind the rear tires are rusted through completely. Are Land Rovers known for being prone to rust? I have repainted the undercarriage with black rustoleum paint but what can I do about the fender wells. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I don't wanna hear this kinda stuff! The only thing you can do if the rust is started like that is remove it- strip it all and chemically treat the metal to prevent it from happening again. Not an inexpensive thing, but rustoleum isn't going to save it. Staun has a new rust retardant that might work, but many people use Waxoyl. The trick is that you MUST remove all the rust for a anti-rust treatment to work.
 

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Yikes!

Well if your truck is a Florida truck, someone must have been driving in salt water! I don't think salty air can do that much damage! Salt will react with the steel and eat it away.
Up here in Canada, we use salt on the roads to keep them from freezing (at least here in Ontario)

There is one absolute do not for us - do not keep your vehicle in a HEATED garage.It will accelerate the chemical reaction and your vehicle will rot from the inside out.

Generally speaking you should get your vehicle rustproofed in the spring so the solvent is fresh and will stop the rusting before the warmth of spring.

And by the way the best product I have EVER heard of is RUST BULLET.

CHECK IT OUT HERE:

http://rustbullet.com/Products/Automotive/Automotive.htm

Rust is cancer - treat it now!
 

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Hmm.....did you buy it with a warrentee?? I know because my original owner bought the extended warentee my rust protection guarentee went from 75k miles to a lifetime!.....err....assuming LR lives that long.
 

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What about something that chemically converts the rust to a primer? I have seen a product in a local store that sells stuff for doing body work on vehicles made by Mar-Hyde(or something like that) called One-Step. It claims to convert rust to black primer sealer. I don't know if it actually works. Anyone use this type of product?
 

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Yup!

I tried a so called rust converter. It's a waste of time unless you clean away all the loose stuff then it converts what is left. Then you have to coat the unprotected good metal, with another product.... primer or paint.....
Pain in the butt! :moon:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The undercarriage was mostly surface rust where the paint had flaked off and Im not too concerned about that. I gave it a good coat with the rustoleum paint and it seems fine. Im concerned about the metal panels behind the rear tires. They're rusted through. After reading some other posts it seems like a common problem. It had 43K miles on it when I bought it and I bought an extended warranty that was good until 80K but now it has 104K so Im sheit outta luck.

Keptin...nice vids.
 

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Oh, and the Florida air is bad on metal. I have a Harley and I took it to Daytona Bike week and after a week being around the salty air the chrome started showing spots of rust. Thats all it takes.
 

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Badger1 said:
What about something that chemically converts the rust to a primer? I have seen a product in a local store that sells stuff for doing body work on vehicles made by Mar-Hyde(or something like that) called One-Step. It claims to convert rust to black primer sealer. I don't know if it actually works. Anyone use this type of product?
The "One Step" stuff is fairly good. Just make sure the rust is removed ala wire brush or other means. Use some form of Rustoleum after to protect the metal then prime and paint it. That ought to do it. I live 20 minutes from the beach and do not notice any excessive rust on my vehicles, But I do undercoat all my cars, and also spray inhibitors in the areas that may retain water.
I also keep a fairly good coat of wax and sealer on the paint to help prevent any attack on the paint.
 

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A popular product in the British car hobby is stuff called "Finnigan's Waxoyl". It is a tan soupy liquid that you inject into hidden cavities, paint onto panels, etc. You can find nearly the same thing at some auto parts stores sold as "Rustfre".
If you are interested google "waxoyl" and you will find plenty of info, even how to make it at home.
I apply it thinned with mineral spirits using the rust proof kit sold by JC Whitney and an air compressor.
 

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When you say "rusted through" on the rear wheel wells, are you talking about the actual sheet metal on the rear quarts or are you talking about the metal plate in the wheel well just above the rear mud flaps?

If it's the latter, mine rusted the first year I bought the truck. Dealer stated it was normal. (whatever that means).

Post up a couple pics. I was under the impression most of the body was aluminum (hence, it won't rust)
 
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