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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2002 d2 115,000 miles 170,000 km
So my (new to me) 2002 has decided to do its best to piss me off.
Have been driving it for about 3 months , since I put a water pump on it and put it on the road.
Has been running great. No lights, no leaks no problems. Until recently. I keep my acutely 802 plugged in and temp. Has been steady at about 200 -202 deg. Made a 1200 km trip to Quebec 2 weeks ago and trailered back a 57 series 1 that I picked up (cheap basket case project)
I had noticed that I was loosing about a litre of coolant every couple of weeks (500-600 km)
Monday this week left work and drove about 5 minutes - in town driving, stop and go. Temp gauge was the usual 3o clock position as always. I noticed the temp gauge on my scanner reading 217deg! W.t.f. I pulled over right away.
Popped the hood and coolant was a little low. Looking around I noticed that the thermostat was damp... No puddle just wet.
I have been planning on doing the 180 degree stat change but had not yet got around to it.
Topped it up and limped it another 5 minutes home. No problems.
I got on the Internet and shopped around for a 180 stat. Figuring that it would be a few day to a week to get one shipped, I decided to deal with the immediate problem ( leaking thermostat) thinking that would be the safe thing to do.
I pulled the thermostat off my 2000 d2 which has been sitting since this new truck went on the road. Installed it and went through the usual pain in the but bleeding ( raising the resivor etc. Made sure I had good heat and no signs of air. Still running at 210 - 220 deg. ??????
Rechecked my work nothing unusual just hot.
Re bled it no change.
Thermostat was fine in the other truck. 2 hoses going in the top are good and hot but hose on the bottom is not (quite cool actually)
Thermostat is not opening....... Am I right?
Ordered a stock thermostat from a local supplier, SAME temp.
What am I missing?
Gets warmer in city driving than I would like. Drove it at a steady 80 kph / 50 m.p.h and temp is about 205 -212deg
More airflow lower temp
Shifted into 3 to increase r.p.m. Temp is 202 -207
More r.p.m. Lower temp.
Thermostat still feels cool on the bottom hose.

Today I decided to eliminate the fan clutch and switched it - no change
Removed and checked the radiator, seemed to flow o.k. But what the heck, I have one so I changed it too! Even if only as a test?
The only difference between the 2000 and the 2002 is the temp sensor in the passenger side lower tank.
Still the same!
Checked the cooling system with a gas analyzer. Seems o.k. Pulled plugs nothing unusual checked oil o.k. nothing out the tail pipe.
I have been lucky with both my d2s so far and have never had a head gasket or bad block yet. Has my luck run out?

My question is why is the lower hose. ( Thermostat to the rad) always cool?
Bad thermostat x2 ?
Bad water pump not moving enough coolant?
Plugged rad x2 ?
I am waiting on the 180 stat but now question if I have something more going on
Any ideas, help, advice?
Feel free to comment
 

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the water that cools in the radiator comes out of the bottom hose back into the engine - remember your physics - cools stuff drops down and hot stuff rises up :smile

If its something sudden could be a blockage in the engine or possibly - depending on the new water pump - a problem with the pump. Did you use a good pump with a solid impeller? some of the crappy tin impellers implode quite fast and loose the ends of vanes or even full vanes - some are also only crimped on the shaft and work loose too so that when revs increase they can still keep up but at idle they start to fall behind on cooling.
If its a good quality pump and everything else is good and there is no water in the oil or exhaust as you say then there may be an air bubble that has moved and is suddenly causing problems?

good luck chasing it down
Cheers
Barri
 

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FYI - I recently read a post that said the Disco thermostats do not register exact temps; they register cold in a certain range, then they click up to normal in the usual operating range which, I believe, got up to about 100 degrees C and then did not register hot until it got above 100 degrees C. Not sure that this is real but is what I read. Ie, they have only three specific positions - cold, normal, and hot and nothing inbetween.

So your readings of 200+ degrees F and the gauge still reading normal sounds correct.

If I had a infrared gun, I would test it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for your comments everyone... Keep them coming��
Not to mistake gauge readings and true temperature I am going by live scan data not the silly idiot gauge on the dash
And yes they read half way in the normal range from about 140 to about 240 and cannot be trusted. They may as well have just put a light on the dash that reads " your screwed"
Took it for a drive across town ( about 10 minutes) ran about 210 and went up to 217 at idle in the parking lot at Walmart
Revved it up to about 1200 rpm and it dropped back to 210
Yes still hot but makes no sense that it comes down when the engine speed is higher
Pump was aftermarket. Looked like a decent on as I recall
I'm leaning towards a bad pump or restriction
Tomorrow is another day��
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I am going to pull the pump tomorrow take a close look at it and flush the crap out of it.
Hope something shows itself
 

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Just another thought - after your long trip is there any chance that your tensioner is starting to die and with the new pump its slipping a bit and only gets full cooling when you start to rev it? has the charge light been flickering at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update on my progress.
Thanks for your input
Sunday I pulled some more apart, tried another clutch fan, but decided to not pull the pump off, checked my receipts and confirmed that it was a what I would consider a good quality pump.
Tried it with a new belt (Been dripped on with coolant every time I had to bleed the system) and maybe a little worn / stretched????
Tensioner felt o.k. And I did not have a spare on hand.
Bled it and drove it again no change ��
Kind of stepped back and thought about what I might be overlooking
Today I got into it again.
Took some more given advice and monitored temps with an infrared gun and a thermometer in the overflow tank. Confirmed it is hot (200 ish). Noticed that the connector on the top of the coolant temp sensor ( in intake manifold) was damaged / clip broken. Decided to pull the alternator and sneak it out, swapped it out with the one off my 2000 parts truck just to be sure. Noticed a hint of a bearing noise from the tensioner. Replaced it and the fixed idler (again from my parts truck).
Put the bugger back together, bled it and tried again. NO BETTER��
Tonight at home decided to have another kick at it. My wife who knows little about cars suggested flushing it again. Running out of reasonable other options I agreed to.
Drained the cooling system, removed the new thermostat, flushed it every which way with the garden hose, flushed it some more. I have 2 good? Used thermostats.
Decided to go old school on it and mechanically jammed the thermostat open..... Yes I know. Butcher.... Hacker.... Bodger. I just did it as a test.
Filled and bled it with straight water ( tired of wasting coolant) ran it , drove it same conditions, around town, stop and go driving, temp was steady at 165-170! Would have been 217-221 before! Good heater heat.
So
Was it the flushing?
Was it 3 bad thermostats?
Was it the wife?..... Time will tell.
Still waiting on my 180 soft spring thermostat to arrive from brittish parts of Utah. Until then I think I will stick with my mechanically stuck open thermostat and low temps.

1 more question.
I am currently running a radiator from a non air injected 2000 d2 which did not have the hole for the temp sensor in the passenger rad tank, I currently have the sensor plugged into the harness and tie wrapped out of the way, not " in" anything....and No codes, gauge works, scan data is present, electric fan works properly
What the heck does that sensor do?.....
Will update when I get my 180 thermostat in it.
I will finally get a decent nights sleep ������
 

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Good news. Interesting too. Let us know. As I understand it, the only real reason for a thermostat is to let the engine warm up quickly so it performs more efficiently sooner. Guess except for dead of winter in Alaska.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update!
Received my soft spring style 180 deg thermostat from our friends @ Brittish parts of Utah. (Thanks for the good part and great service)
Installed it today, bled the system and topped it off.
Ran it stationary for about 1/2 hour all good climbed to 190 deg uncapped.
Capped it and tool it out for a drive at a combination of low speeds and higher speeds (up to about 50 m.p.h.) for about 1/2 hour,
Temp. Varied from 185 to 190 deg. BUT NO HIGHER ! ����������
My advice to anyone who is still running a stock thermostat..... Get a " 180 soft spring"and stop burning up your engine! I am sure the higher temperatures contribute to head gasket failures, liner distortion and failure.
Definitely worth the money and time in my opinion
 
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