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2003 D2: Replacing rear wheel stud?

2550 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  miami
Just seeing if anyone can shed any light on this for me - why is it that we can't replace the rear wheel studs on our D2s?

I've heard from several sources that the front studs can be replaced but the rear studs are impossible to remove and warrant a full hub replacement. Well last night I pulled my driver's rear hub to replace it as I bought it with one of the studs broken, and I was surprised to see that the stud dimensions and press-fit mounting style look match the front hubs exactly.

My hubs and bearings are all still in good shape with no noise, play, or warning lights, so I'd like to avoid replacing them if possible. I see that wheel studs are readily available, so what prevents me from just pressing out the old rear stud and pressing in a new one?

I have a 20 ton hydraulic press with various arbor plates, and an assortment of small hand presses that would work great for this application.

A new stud is $3 - a new hub is $300, so you understand my reasoning. Can anyone clarify as to why this might not be possible?
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Just knock them out - use an alloy or brass drift if you don't want to damage the threads. I'm sure if there will be enough room to fit new studs although - it's a pretty tight gap.
The new studs are pulled into place with a reversed wheel nut.
You get to use some of those fancy tools!

Have a look at this - http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/200308-D2-Wheel-Studs-Help!
Went ahead and did this last night - used the hydraulic press and it took me maybe 10 minutes to pull the broken stud out. New studs are on order and it looks like they'll press in just as easily as they came out.

Just a note - it is easier to pull the hub to do the swap. I imagine it's plausible to get it done with the hub still on the car but I don't think it would be terribly fun to do.
Heat & Cold would do magics. Based on my years playing with old transporters ( Harleys from the 40's & 50's), I would stick the stud in the freezer and heat to the main hub. Remember, there's an O ring inside the hub by the bearing to keep oils inside. I've done it and it works. Got mine at the local junk yard. Good luck!
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