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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok Boys I am stumped! 2001 D2, 170K mi, starter new last year, battery new 2 yrs( and had checked under load- still good) The truck was sitting with steering box out for a few months. I replaced steering box and now it won't crank...all lights come on. Neutral safety switch working properly, have brake lights so brake switch working, I have 12 V at the solenoid whether key is on or off( thought I shouldnt' until key was turned to start?) but putting Key to start produces not even a click on the solenoid. It picks a relay called AUX in the engine compartment fuse box, I swapped it out with anther one, works the same. Is that the relay that should be picked for the starter? If I already have 12 V at the solenoid with nothing on, what picks the solenoid? The only other connection is a small brown wire that has a slip on connector, I assume coming from the ignition? too small to carry any real current. I don't know how to read across the pins on the relays to see if I have a bad one...can RAVE tell me that? How would I read if there is voltage when car is in start position going where it is supposed to to pick the solenoid? Hopefully not something simple and then I have to admit stupidity :)
 

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certified idiot
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There is always power at the starter and the cranking is controlled by the solenoid. The solenoid is activated by the relay in the fuse box in the engine compartment. Sounds like your relay or solenoid is dead.
The relay is a standard relay and cheap ($8) to replace it marked as #2 and circled in the picture.
the solenoid is a lot more expensive to replace.
to test the relay apply power across terminal 85 and 86 (its diode protected so positive goes to 85) and you should hear it click and there will be continuity across 30 and 87.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Guru - Thanks Man! I measured the relay, picks fine, good continuity...so solenoid? When I replaced the started the solenoid was attached...is it separately replaceable? or do I need to get a whole new starter assembly. I have never had one go bad just sitting??
 

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just stick your voltmeter on the single small wire going to the solenoid and confirm the wire gets voltage when the key is turned -needs an extra hand :)

if its getting voltage then yes its the solenoid. I must be honest mine went out and I bought a whole new ostarter and solenoid from one of the cheapies - I think it cost about $65 with free shipping. slapped it in and it works just great. when I have some time I will rebuild the bosch one that was playing up - the cheapie one works really well though.
cheers
Barri

Ps bought this one its been in about 1 month New Starter Land Rover Discovery V8 3 9L 4L 4 6L 94 04 17792 | eBay
 

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Hey "Convert"
I personally would take a step back and think about the basics.
I constantly remind myself and the techs I work with , to stick with the "k.i s.s. Principle (keep it simple stupid") l.o.l.
Just because the battery is good does not verify that the control circuit is operating, neither is replacing a relay. How can you prove the starter is good or bad? How can you prove the control circuit is o.k.?
I would consider physically testing the signal wire /solenoid wire (small wire for power when the key is turned to crank (power when turned to crank)it you get power then the control circuit is working
also energizing the solenoid manually (feed power to the solenoid wire /small wire ) if it cranks the starter is o.k. And you are dealing with a control problem.
Also don't forget that a "bad ground" can cause all kinds of supposed mysteries and the first will be a start / crank issue.
Remember nothing else needs amperage like a starter - nothing
Bad ground can still operate lights, gauges, etc. but as soon as you try to engage the starter - nothing.....
Hope this helps you isolate whether you are dealing with a control issue or a starter circuit problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Redtruck12 - I appreciate the response, and the logic. I will test the signal wire when my extra hands comes home :) However, I should tell the story that the truck has been sitting for about 6 months, jacked up with Steering box repair, outside. Sunroof started leaking during heavy rain about 3 months ago, so high moisture content in the vehicle. Also, none of the locks operate either with remote or when pressing switch near clock...so I am starting to wonder about alarm system failure or worse ECM? I have checked every fuse in both locations all are good. I seemed to remember somewhere in my research someone talking about having to get the BCM and ECM talking again? Everything worked fine up until about 3 months ago, so whatever it was it went bad while sitting...ther wasn't anything I disconnected doing the steering box. Neutral safety switch is working, have brake lights, all dash lights, but no locking or unlock on any door. I have not checked relays as I do not know how to measure them all. Going to the Rave manual now...thoughts?
 

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wjsj69
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Since you're having remote/lock problems, it sounds related to that system, and your starter is probably fine (no harm in confirming it). Here's why I think so: Sometimes when I go to start my 2000 D2, it doesn't crank and the alarm light in the instrument cluster blinks (does yours?), so I have to press the unlock button on the key fob (even though I already unlocked the truck with it), then it cranks and starts. I'm not sure why; I think it might be after I "super-lock" it (If I'm not sure I locked the truck, and I press the key fob lock button twice). Do a search on "super-lock" problems. It's a safety feature included with our trucks to madden us when the system goes awry. I'm betting if you figure out your locking/alarm system, it'll start. The rave and electrical manuals cover it, but have some coffee and clear your mind before you delve into it! :nerd
 
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