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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all. I just purchased my third Land Rover I’ve ever owned. It’s a 2005 LR3 HSE HD w/ 144k miles. I’ve not owned an LR3 before. Have had two D2’s.
I need to pick your brains that have more knowledge. I’ve done some research and think I have some ideas of what to look for but need some opinions please. Considering buying a Gap tool too.

-Air bag light is on dash. I need to read the codes to determine if it’s a seat issue or loose plug. I hope it’s that simple.
-Transmission fault on dash. Says traction is limited. I’d assume reading this code would elaborate too.
-Radio issue. Audio works on and off. Says low power mode at 20 volume. Battery or alternator?
-Nav display takes forever to turn on. Majority of the time it’s just the Land Rover logo.
-air suspension rising slow note on dash. Compressor or leak?
-lower tailgate button does not work. I can hear it actuate... I think it’s the lower that I hear. when I hit the button on the actual tail gate nothing happens, no noise. I have to pop the latches on the pins to release. When I hit the unlock on the key I hear the upper unlock for sure.
-Headlights in Auto setting. Dash lights don’t work.

All these issues appear to be pretty common. Any advice will be greatly appreciate. I’m definitely going to look and see if there is corrosion around the foot well due to the sunroof drain. I can only assume this is broken and leaking.

Other than these issue... which I hope a few of them are related. There’s very little to complain about this Rover. Im super excited to get this thing up and running and on the road and the trail.
 

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Get a GAP tool for sure. I'd guess voltage issue on the low power mode. Do you mind sharing how much you paid for that baby??? (I also have an '05 HSE with HD and 130k miles, so I'm curious)
 

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Sounds like it hasn’t had much of any maintenance. Start with the simple stuff like battery/alternator tests and pulling codes.

definitely get a scan tool
 
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Hello,

Most of the symptoms you mentioned, except for a few, can be corrected with a new battery provided the rig runs and shifts fine. A fluctuation in voltage causes these error messages to appear. Now the few issues I mentioned, this is how I fixed it in my 05 LR3.

Radio issue. Audio works on and off. Says low power mode at 20 volume. Battery or alternator? Low power mode is indicated when engine is not running. This seems to be normal if you have the higher end system
Headlights in Auto setting. Dash lights don’t work. Did you try rotating the intensity knob on the side of the light switch?
Air suspension rising slow note on dash. Compressor or leak? Original compressor? Spray soapy water on all connections to make sure there are no leaks in the system. Original compressor may be outputting low pressure due to worn internals. Mine does it every now and then but most of the time, it's fine.
Lower tailgate button does not work. I can hear it actuate... I think it’s the lower that I hear. when I hit the button on the actual tail gate nothing happens, no noise. I have to pop the latches on the pins to release. When I hit the unlock on the key I hear the upper unlock for sure In other forums and some youtube videos, the actual cable end that connects to the actuator also breaks off rendering the release inoperable. Also, in most cases, the switch goes out as well. Check youtube for repair references

Hope this helps in some way or another. Enjoy your rig, I try to take mine on backroad daytrips every weekend.
 

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Hello, From my experience the number 1 thing to do is the 100,000 transmission service. That makes a world of difference. If you have a lift its easy. Buy the kit from British Atlantic and watch the youtube videos. IMHO don't spend a dime on anything else till you get the Transmission working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thank you everyone for your input. This is the help I have been seeking. Couple answers and still a couple issues.
I bought this rover for $7k. 2K higher than I was really wanting to spend, but I jumped because it’s a beautiful Rover with all the right options. Found it on Autotrader. according to KBB.com and NADA.com this was a fair market price. I bought it realizing I’d definitely be dealing with some sort of gremlins.

I fully charged the battery. Which helped with the “Low Power Mode” on the radio. Also FYI this message came on while the engine was running. The battery has no visible date on it but it looks new.

Ive tried to reset the vehicle by disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time. Then connecting the battery cables together with a jumper cable. I’ve read this can reset the computers.
This did not help much but kinda helped the nav display work. Nav display turned off once while driving today but turns on quickly. Radio is still malfunctioning and volume cuts in and out. 😤

Air bag light might be connected to drivers seat. Just assuming because the seat heater is not working on the driver seal only. Passenger air bag notification light is functional with weight on seat and heater is working great. Air bag light is still currently on.

“Suspension rising slowly”, is not coming on the display after charging the battery. That a good sign! Suspension appears to be working great and holding air... knock on wood. It has been really cold out, I am not noticing anything visible with the suspension sagging.

“Transmission Fault Traction Reduced“. Still showing on dash upon startup. However vehicle is driving and shifting fine. Haven’t driven on the highway yet though. 45 has been my top speed. I definitely plan on servicing the trans very soon.

Lower tailgate button issue has yet to be diagnosed. I did just watch a ton of YouTube videos. I’ll deal with this when temps are warmer. I have a feeling that the button is bad.

Headlight auto setting. The intensity knob is working correctly in all other light settings just not auto.

Gap Tool, I’m definitely going to buy one now. I think this will help with many issues now and soon come.

Heres a pic of the new Rover.
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Thank you everyone for your input. This is the help I have been seeking. Couple answers and still a couple issues.
I bought this rover for $7k. 2K higher than I was really wanting to spend, but I jumped because it’s a beautiful Rover with all the right options. Found it on Autotrader. according to KBB.com and NADA.com this was a fair market price. I bought it realizing I’d definitely be dealing with some sort of gremlins.

I fully charged the battery. Which helped with the “Low Power Mode” on the radio. Also FYI this message came on while the engine was running. The battery has no visible date on it but it looks new.

Ive tried to reset the vehicle by disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time. Then connecting the battery cables together with a jumper cable. I’ve read this can reset the computers.
This did not help much but kinda helped the nav display work. Nav display turned off once while driving today but turns on quickly. Radio is still malfunctioning and volume cuts in and out. 😤

Air bag light might be connected to drivers seat. Just assuming because the seat heater is not working on the driver seal only. Passenger air bag notification light is functional with weight on seat and heater is working great. Air bag light is still currently on.

“Suspension rising slowly”, is not coming on the display after charging the battery. That a good sign! Suspension appears to be working great and holding air... knock on wood. It has been really cold out, I am not noticing anything visible with the suspension sagging.

“Transmission Fault Traction Reduced“. Still showing on dash upon startup. However vehicle is driving and shifting fine. Haven’t driven on the highway yet though. 45 has been my top speed. I definitely plan on servicing the trans very soon.

Lower tailgate button issue has yet to be diagnosed. I did just watch a ton of YouTube videos. I’ll deal with this when temps are warmer. I have a feeling that the button is bad.

Headlight auto setting. The intensity knob is working correctly in all other light settings just not auto.

Gap Tool, I’m definitely going to buy one now. I think this will help with many issues now and soon come.

Heres a pic of the new Rover.
View attachment 92800 View attachment 92801 View attachment 92802 View attachment 92803
Another thing to check (given the mileage you have): the idler and tensioner pulleys on your two serpentine belts. With the belt/s out of the way, if you spin any of those pulleys.... and they continue to spin for more than, say, two seconds, replace the pulley. The longer the spin, the drier the bearing. And the nearer they are to seizing.
 

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They sell compressor rebuild kits pretty cheap on eBay. It’s an easy job, mostly o-rings. Airbag could be a fuse issue. Keep us posted, and good looking LR3!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
They sell compressor rebuild kits pretty cheap on eBay. It’s an easy job, mostly o-rings. Airbag could be a fuse issue. Keep us posted, and good looking LR3!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Time for a little update. Thanks everyone for your input so far it’s helping. I’ve done some Investigation but haven’t solved single problem yet.

Because the passenger floor is soaking wet I investigated the sunroof drain tub behind the fuse box. It’s a little deformed but not broken. I’m going to replace it still. While I had the fuse box out I found some odd loose wires. I tried to connect one of the cut wires back to its self. I got it reconnected. However I have another wire that is loose but i can’t find the broken wires counterpart.
TBD.

I think my next step will be to remove the passage seat so I can work comfortably. Then replace the sunroof drain tube end. I also need to replace the sunroof button. Sunroof does not open. I’ve checked all the fuses., Everything is fine. I’m thinking I’ll need to replace the AMP too. I’m hoping that replacing the amp will fix the radio not working issue and the NAV display freezing and or not loading.

I haven’t had a chance to read the AirBag light.
Battery drains when it sits for a few days.


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Keep up the good work. I too just found out my LR4 sunroof drain was clogged. Time to investigate the fix!


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is another update. Still have not resolved any of the issues but the diagnostics are still underway.

I removed the passenger seat. Took my shop vac and vacuumed out around 2 cups of water from the passenger footwell. It’s still plenty wet. I started investigating the wire loom on the passenger side. I found multiple wires that have been spliced. Looks like it could have been factor work but I don’t know. See the photos, all the blue tape are splices. Throughout my investigation I discovered a couple wires that were ”factory spliced“ below the B pillar. There is some sort of bracket that holds the seat to the B pillar. I removed this bracket and easily found a set of corroded spliced wires. See the photos. I cut the corrosion from the wires and reconnected them then used heat shrink to seal them. This did not fix anything that I’m aware of. The saga continues! 😒

I ordered a sunroof drain tube and new windshield cowl. I investigated the cowl and found it is deformed in a few spots. Hope is, replacing these and cleaning the sunroof drain tubes will solve the leak. TBD.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Small update today. I had more time to work on the Rover finally. Got a good amount done today.
Replaced the windshield cowl. Replaced the passenger side sunroof drain tube. Vacuumed out a ton more water for the passenger footwell. I investigated the wire loom a ton today. I found a couple more corroded wires. I cut them, cleaned them and protected with heat shrink. Upon my investigation I followed the wires that were corroded to a plug on the A pillar footwell. Unplugged the plug and I found more corrosion. This is bad news. I have no idea what to do now and I could really use some advice.
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Unfortunately it’s entirely possible for water to travel along copper wire INSIDE of the vinyl sheathing. My Ducati’s stator corroded a bit and friggin motor oil traveled out through the stator wires and was dripping from splices. What the hell lol
 

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Small update today. I had more time to work on the Rover finally. Got a good amount done today.
Replaced the windshield cowl. Replaced the passenger side sunroof drain tube. Vacuumed out a ton more water for the passenger footwell. I investigated the wire loom a ton today. I found a couple more corroded wires. I cut them, cleaned them and protected with heat shrink. Upon my investigation I followed the wires that were corroded to a plug on the A pillar footwell. Unplugged the plug and I found more corrosion. This is bad news. I have no idea what to do now and I could really use some advice.
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Yes, I too would appreciate anyone's experience with dealing with corrosion of this sort. Attempting to scrape the plaque off is only a partial remedy. Is there a tool that can back out individual wires through the back of the connector?
 

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Anything long, narrow, and stiff should be able to depress the retention tabs on the individual wires. Then they’ll slide right out
 

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I'd seriously consider replacing the battery. It will likely make a major improvement in many areas. These things like (need) good clean power.

On the sun roof, there is a reset procedure I'd try, it's worked on both of my lr3's when I thought the motor had died. Hold the open button down, I think for 30 seconds, and continue to hold it as it opens and shuts and vents and finally stops, then let go. There are actually multiple sensors and triggers for algorithm based monitoring on almost every electric and mechanical part to these cars. when you get the GAP tool and run the deeper fault code diagnostic, it's kind of scary how much the 17 computers keep an eye on. Many items like the sunroof, will freeze and not allow operation if it senses something is out of line with factory parameters.

Service the transmission, Atlantic British "new style" pan and separate filter, ZF Fluid, and go ahead and replace the mechatronics sleeve as they are prone to leak. Take care on cleaning the area the gasket goes for the pan. Unless you have service records that show it's been done recently, service front and rear diffs and transfer case with the fluid form Atlantic British as well. Assuming you did an oil change, but if not, do that with the good stuff. Put MOA in with every change, it will save your engine.

Enjoy the old gal, she's got a lot of life left, and I promise it's worth all the sweat, blood, tears, and money. These are some of the best vehicles made in the modern era, and they are amazing to experience. Join a local Land Rover club, jump in, we are an odd but incredible family!

I really like the black grill with the light guards on the white... very sharp!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, I too would appreciate anyone's experience with dealing with corrosion of this sort. Attempting to scrape the plaque off is only a partial remedy. Is there a tool that can back out individual wires through the back of the connector?
I don’t think there is any magical solution to fix the corrosion. Other than to find the source of the corrosion... fix it and replace the damaged wires. This is probably our only solution.


Anything long, narrow, and stiff should be able to depress the retention tabs on the individual wires. Then they’ll slide right out
Found some terminal keys on Amazon. Super affordable.


I'd seriously consider replacing the battery. It will likely make a major improvement in many areas. These things like (need) good clean power.

On the sun roof, there is a reset procedure I'd try, it's worked on both of my lr3's when I thought the motor had died. Hold the open button down, I think for 30 seconds, and continue to hold it as it opens and shuts and vents and finally stops, then let go. There are actually multiple sensors and triggers for algorithm based monitoring on almost every electric and mechanical part to these cars. when you get the GAP tool and run the deeper fault code diagnostic, it's kind of scary how much the 17 computers keep an eye on. Many items like the sunroof, will freeze and not allow operation if it senses something is out of line with factory parameters.

Service the transmission, Atlantic British "new style" pan and separate filter, ZF Fluid, and go ahead and replace the mechatronics sleeve as they are prone to leak. Take care on cleaning the area the gasket goes for the pan. Unless you have service records that show it's been done recently, service front and rear diffs and transfer case with the fluid form Atlantic British as well. Assuming you did an oil change, but if not, do that with the good stuff. Put MOA in with every change, it will save your engine.

Enjoy the old gal, she's got a lot of life left, and I promise it's worth all the sweat, blood, tears, and money. These are some of the best vehicles made in the modern era, and they are amazing to experience. Join a local Land Rover club, jump in, we are an odd but incredible family!

I really like the black grill with the light guards on the white... very sharp!
So I tried the sunroof button trick you mentioned. This did not work for me. I also tried pulling the sunroof button out of the headliner... and unplugged the wires and I tried to “Hotwire” the sunroof. This did not work either. Where is the sunroof motor? front of the headliner or in the middle?

I made a decision to buy the IID Gap tool this weekend. I hope using this will help me hone in on the electrical issues and where they are all coming from. Purchased via Lucky8. Can’t wait until it arrives. Before I buy a battery I need to understand why it’s loosing its charge and if the alternator is charging it correctly. I think that the gap tool will be able to tell me the voltages of the battery and the volts the alternator is producing.

Thank you for your advice about the trans pan and the other services I need to do. I watched the Atlantic British how to video. Looks like a Pretty involved job if I have the time and patience. Especially to get to a couple of the hard to reach bolts. God knows I could spend 45min trying to get one bolt out that my fat fingers won’t reach. But I think I’ll give it a try when I resolve these other outstanding issue. Have you done this yourselve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Small update... the saga continues. I replaced the amp with an amp I purchased from eBay. The NAV display is now working great and not freezing. However, the radio is getting stuck on Phone Mode. It switches between working radio and Phone Mode. Super frustrating! I read a post on Landroverforums..com. The dude was having the same problem. He ended up replacing the radio and this fixed his problem. Looks like I’ll be replacing the radio now. Any body Have any input about this? Do you think this will work.


On another note, a better note, my new IID Gap tool arrived! fast shipping from Lucky8! I can’t wait to get this thing hooked up and reading codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just did a bit more searching around about this Phone Mode problem. Looks like it’s pretty common after the battery is disconnected. I had the battery disconnected for days. I guess I’ll try this method of disconnecting the optic cables on the back of the radio. I’ll give that a shot, fingers crossed it works.
 
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