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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My wife's LR3 has had some engine knock for a few weeks (99k miles on it). I checked the oil and it was below minimum.
Refilled the oil and took to the mechanic.
Looks like a bearing inside the engine is starting to give up.

The LR3 still runs and could run for another few thousand miles according to the mech.

The mech has quoted $7000 to replace the engine, but the LR3 is only worth about $10k.

Last year I spent $3k on new brakes and front wheel bearings (6k miles since this last work).

My current options:
1) Replace the engine and a few other items (2 tires) for about $7800
2) Sell the LR3 for someone who needs parts. Anyone interested?

I'm 40 minutes south of San Francisco
 

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I would consider two things. First, I would get a second opinion. I don't know how low you ran it on oil, but that engine shouldn't suffer damage even at a couple quarts low. If it got driven a bit with the oil light blinking on and off occasionally for weeks then you probably have damage. But hearing a noise and being a couple quarts low may be coincidental events. Lots of things can make noises like a rod knock. Like belt idlers and water pumps. Or broken flexplates. Usually a first stage rod knock appears only at transitional load. It will clunk at idle, but go away when the motor is revved. try this- warm it up and then hit the gas. Rev it up and see how this effects the knock. If it making noise at idle, but temporarily goes away, it's probably a rod. Rev it up and hold ti at 2500RPM. If the knock stopped on the rev, but comes back steadily at 2500, it's probably a rod. The flexplate can make noise at the same points in these same tests, but it is typically a different sound- more metallic and sharper.

If it does have some bearing insert wear, you could possibly find a shop that will drop the pan and install a bearing insert set. It's a patch, but may be worth the gamble. Your other alternative is a used engine. You should be able to get a guaranteed used unit from a reputable source, installed, for around $4500.

The $7000 cost for repair doesn't sound right to me. That's high for bearing inserts, but pretty low for a remanufactured long block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It has been long week trying to find out the source of the problem.
The $7k price tag is to replace the engine (including a refurbished engine at about $4k).

Any ideas of a reputable place to get an engine besides RL Parts and British Atlantic?
 

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Replace the PCV valve (oil) regulator ! ASAP!
Dave
 

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It has been long week trying to find out the source of the problem.
The $7k price tag is to replace the engine (including a refurbished engine at about $4k).

Any ideas of a reputable place to get an engine besides RL Parts and British Atlantic?
God only knows what "refurbished" means. For $4k it certainly doesn't mean Remanufactured, which is an engine restored to new-like condition.

It's a used truck with 100K on it. Put a used engine in it.

For $7k, you'd be better off selling the truck for $2500 and putting that towards a replacement.
 
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