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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Starter's on the R/H side of the engine, so it seems I have a 4.4L engine. At any rate the manual calls to split the upper ball joint and disconnect the stab bar link, to facilitate removal of the starter. My question is, is this job better left to the shop or can it be done by the average joe-schmoe? I don't have the special tool called for in the manual to split the upper ball joint, and after crawling under there and taking a gander, it didn't look all that bad, besides fighting the heat shield. Any pointers on this one folks? I'm not too proud to let the pro's do it, but the rover shop quoted me at 600 bones for the labor alone, so I thought I would look into doing it myself?
 

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It should be doable. It won't take much to separate it, couple of good wacks. If you are handy, you should be able to handle it.

Be sure to disconnect your battery(s)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It should be doable. It won't take much to separate it, couple of good wacks. If you are handy, you should be able to handle it.

Be sure to disconnect your battery(s)
Can you tell me TLT... is disconnecting the suspension facilitate removal of the starter, or is it for removal of the 3 heat shield sections?
 

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Give this a whirl.....

Credit to http:// landroverforums.com /forum/lr3-28/diy-lr3-starter-replacement-46945/

chipdouglas40
Tools I used were: 13mm gearwrench wrenches, multiple lengths were needed. This is for the 2 bolts that hold on the starter. 12mm open end wrench for the nut on the positive starter lead. 8mm wrench for a heat shield, and a 10mm for a heat shield. Also have a metric wratchet set available.

This took me about 4-5 hours but would take me less than 2 if I had to do it again.

Also let me apologize for not having pix. It was a frustrating ordeal.

Disconnect battery.

front end needs to be raised off of ground so that the suspension hangs free.
I had a forklift at work so I used that and a 6"x6" piece of wood to go across forks

Take off passenger front wheel

Reach in and gently disconnect the lever/arm that is for what I think is the sensor for the air suspension

Lay under truck and position yourself under starter. You will see a heat shield that base some metal tubes attached to it. Use the 8mm wrench to undo it. It won't move freely but gives you enough clearance to remove the lower bolt of starte. This is the.EASY one.

The upper one takes finese. Note that lower bolt faces rear of truck, upper bolt is ontop facing engine compartment. I loosened 4 bolts lol wondering why the ef is the starter still stuck,

When you are ready for the upper bolt you will need to reach in where the neg and pos leads go onto the starter. Look at the replacement starters neg lead. See how it is a disconnect style. You have to reach in blindly and disconnect the neg wire first. Then with good luck and god you will be able to unscrew the top bolt via 13mm straight gearwrench.

Go back under truck and you can pull down the starter. The pos is still screwed on. Use your 12mm to remove it.

Now go in exact reverse to install new unit.

ktm_525
Just finished a starter replacement. Total time was about 2 hours thanks to the tips above. I went with a reman unit (Pure energy) through Rock Auto. Total cost was $35 + $55 core. LR wanted $400+

I removed:

negative battery terminal
skid plates
passenger (right side front wheel)
suspension sensor rod
the three small heat shields behind the upper A arm

I did not have to remove (listed as remove in shop manual)

ball joint
sway bar link
brake hoses from upper a arm


Upper bolt was quite easy for me once heat shields removed. I was able to loosen with 13mm box end wrench then have a 3/8 swivel socket and about 18" worth of extensions. Just enough angle to rotate out.

Lower bolt straightforward.


I removed the + wire (nut) and the wire clip before dropping starter.

Tips:

- Have a lot of socket extensions and swivel and you can rotate the upper bolt our quick (1 minute)

- If working on the ground and jackstands are holding front end then a jack and move the A arm up for better access. Be aware if this jack fails and your arm is in reaching at starter bits then it could get nasty. Use a smaller jackstand as a backup.

- a 10mm and 13mm gear wrench (stubby) are useful.

- remember or take picture on the heat shield orientations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Dude, this is perfect! Exactly what I was looking for! It looks tight, but I didn't see the reason to d-connect the suspension.

THANKS for fishing this up! I'll be under there this weekend and will have an update when time allows!
 
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