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Discussion Starter #1
2008 LR3
No Start
This has been so frustrating
I purchased a new battery
I feel I have tried everything I have read up on.
the hard reset
I have checked relays
I have checked fuses
I put a new brake light switch in
I am going to get the two camshaft sensors left and right and a crank position sensor and pay the labor to have them installed I guess. I read about cut spliced wires under passenger door sill plastic trim. Not sure how far down I am to be looking. Any professional advice would be ideal. Please email me as I really need to get this vehicle I purchased on the road to taxi my family to sports.
 

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Do you have a scanner and any DTCs to share?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so my tool is not high end equipment and I myself have been trying to learn to be a mechanic out of necessity, I have Skid Steers and Ford F650 Dump Trucks which are Diesel not that this has a damn thing to do with my 2008 LAND ROVER LR3 V8 SE that I so desperately need to get to turn on and utilize. Please Professionals, help me to the best of your knowledge. I also was wondering if there is a best known outfit for me to get a new Rear windsheild. Or do I go the Safelite auto route?
ok DTC were as followed....
U0167 = Lost communication w vehicle immobilizer control module
P0345 = Camshaft Postion sensor A circut bank 2
P0197 = Engine Oil Temp sensor Low
P0340 = Camshaft postion sensor A circut bank 1 or single sensor
U2023 = Please refer to vehicle service manual
U0100 = Lost Communication w ECM/PCM A.
I am so stoked to have this Truck and want to rectify the issues.
 

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i would (at least initially) disregard the U codes. they are semi-common to can bus vehicles and are often present in normally operating vehicles.

could you please clarify exactly what your truck is and isn't doing?

no start could be defined as "no crank" or "crank but no start" etc.

did you replace the parts you mentioned?

which scan tool are you using specifically?
 

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A bad CPS is usually evidenced by the following: vehicle will not start when hot; it will spin but will not fire. When it cools down, it fire up fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The vehicle does crank but no start.
crank crank crank but does not start. Just short of starting. No I have not thrown money at parts meaning the cam sensor(s). Is it possible it’s immobilized or does it not even crank if that is the case? The security lights does not signify being immobilized. I thought the alternator was the issue but I really have no idea. It has a charged new battery. Does the ECU need to be flashed by a dealer. Could that be the problem. I feel as though I should be able to figure this out to at least start. So irritating I have been at this for a long time. The closet dealer is 1.5 hours or more.
 

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If you were immobilized you would have the red light and no crank at all.

without the technical experience of a mechanic, and without trekking to the dealer, you’ll have to start somewhere.

your symptoms are quite similar to the most common case of bad CPS, and you have codes indicating CPS. I don’t think that it would be a complete waste of time or money to replace those parts and try again. It will still be cheaper than a tow to the dealer for diagnosis alone.
 

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usually evidenced
Not 100% diagnosis unfortunately. Failing crank sensor behaves erratically. Not sure that a totally kaput crank sensor will allow starting in any condition?

also codes indicate camshaft position sensors which (if I understand the system correctly) cross check with the crank sensor output. Compare signal of A1 and A2 to B. Chances of A1 and A2 going bad at the same time are low, but B going bad is believable.

I suppose the bigger question is does the engine have fuel and spark.
 
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