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2010 LR2
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok my gfs LR2 AWD had a rear diff noise. Had rebuilt and shop found the driveshaft joints took out the driveshaft and the front diff was shot too. Got used diff that the diff shop checked and said was good. Upon getting back there is a clunk in the front right axle area upon acceleration. So got a rebuild right cv joint. Noise still there. Got a brand new right cv axle thinking rebuilt might be bad. Noise still there. Took to another shop for their opinion and they said noise coming from left front cv joint. My shop didn’t think so but we had that done. Noise still there.
 

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2010 LR2
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
So that other shop says it’s the rear diff listening with mech machine. Diff rebuilder says no way he rebuilt that and it’s not that. Then they say expensive shop listening device shows noise is from front diff. He says, make up your mind, no way as he’s removed it, replaced all seals and internals are like new. It’s perfect, he’s been doing diffs for 40+ yrs.
Then they say noise is the electronic diff torque viscous coupling unit. (Sits between rear driveshaft and diff). It’s electric. When they unplug wire there’s no noise present anymore.
I’m not allowing anyone throwing more parts at it at this point.
My question, does the driveshaft have a timing mark for that AWD electronic coupling? Could the driveshaft been installled and not set for this AWD coupling unit causing the front diff to be acting up on torque? Noise is more a deep metal thudding. Just like a cv joint or maybe a wheel bearing or diff clutch plate chatter.
Is there a computer reset of the electronic AWD that needs to be done?
Thanks so much. I don’t have the Bentley manual for this and the diff rebuilder does not either. He’s not specialized in LRs AWDs so maybe he missed this. Thanks so much. It’s been in shop going on 2 months now.
The last thing tried was friction modifier for diff.
 

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2008 LR2 SE
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55 Posts
The Haldex unit, aka Active-On-demand Coupling, aka AOC should not have any sort of of timing or alignment mark on either end.

I had an intermittent thudding due to my AOC being low on fluid. An o-ring had a slow leak, so I didn't notice any fluid on the driveway.

You should change the AOC fluid and filter, and clean the pump filter anyway. It's probably never been done but needs to be every 40-50k miles. Replace the o-rings while you're in there.

You could try topping off the AOC with new fluid to see if that's your problem.

Read these threads for info on AOC service:

You need to get the right parts for your specific version of the AOC.


JLR calls the AOC a "filled for life" component, but Volvo has a service interval for the same part :rolleyes:
 

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2010 LR2
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh thanks good to know.
This last shop already confirmed my suspicion it doesn’t work by any timing or sensor reading.
And although the new right motor mount subsided the knocking to now a more shuddering/vibration. It honestly didn’t “fix it”. Which I’m kinda irked about since they insisted it was the mount. They broke a heater pipe doing the mount too. Am I in the wrong for not wanting to pay labor for a misdiagnosed part and broken heater pipe that didn’t really fix the problem? Haven’t seen the bill yet but this indy European shop is known to list as many billable hours as possible.
 

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2010 LR2
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would the front diff being filled to the top of fill hole(guess it’s suppose to be top of fill hole minus 120 ml) possibly cause vibration in the front right axle. The thudding is less after the motor mount but still vibration on acceleration in the front right wheel well area. You can feel it coming from down over there in the drivers seat or passengers seat.
 

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Something similar happened to me. Do yourself a favor. Go for a drive get out and feel front drivshaft u-joints for heat. Caution they can burn you if going bad. It's worth a quick check. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. They’ve been checked several times.
Right now driving with the issue to see if something more happens to direct where issue is exactly.
 
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