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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What have I overlooked here? Got a "left rear sensor electric fail" after stretching the old sensors to the max during hard articulation. Thought I'd broken a wire. Ordered new front sensors for the extra length, installed them, re-set with my Amigo and for the first 5-10 minutes of driving everything was peachy. I then heard noises from the modulator like it was engaging traction control intermittently. After about a minute of this, got the 3 lights again.
Here's what I've done. Checked the resistance of the new sensor. On the low end of the scale (968 ohms), but within specs. I did a continuity check from the slabs plug to the body plug and had continuity throughout as much range of movement of the wire that I could do. Had the battery disconnected througout this test. Hooked it back up again, ran the ABS Amigo one more time for good measure, but the lights remain. WTF!
I'm out of ideas now. Is it possible my ABS Amigo went tits-up? All the lights showed it working properly. Is there some sort of hard fault that it cannot re-set? I thought it would re-set any ABS related code?
- Thanks for any ideas.

P.S. I'm next to 100% sure of this, but I have to ask; left sensor is driver's side, correct?
 

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Yep its taken from the drivers seat facing forward so left is drivers side in the US..
Have you checked the resistance at the slabs - not continuity but resistance? Maybe your splice is not as good as you think or maybe there is some resistance further along in the wire?
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep its taken from the drivers seat facing forward so left is drivers side in the US..
Have you checked the resistance at the slabs - not continuity but resistance? Maybe your splice is not as good as you think or maybe there is some resistance further along in the wire?
cheers
Barri
Good thought. Didn't do it at the slabs. No splice. I bought abs lines with the plugs so I didn't have to splice into the slabs. I'll pull a reading later this morning and re-post.
Thanks
 

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Yes a bad hub can cause the code because of the movement withing the hub of the reluctor ring (on the shaft between the bearings) versus the sensor (in the hub casing outside the bearings)- It would need to be a fairly shot hub!

I have a front right I have to do for the same reason - I'm going to do the steering ball joints on the hub at the same time. Just waiting for winter to be really over then I'll start on it.

If you jack it up and take the tension off the brakes and remove the pads - see how much wobble you have in the hub itself.
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes a bad hub can cause the code because of the movement withing the hub of the reluctor ring (on the shaft between the bearings) versus the sensor (in the hub casing outside the bearings)- It would need to be a fairly shot hub!

I have a front right I have to do for the same reason - I'm going to do the steering ball joints on the hub at the same time. Just waiting for winter to be really over then I'll start on it.

If you jack it up and take the tension off the brakes and remove the pads - see how much wobble you have in the hub itself.
cheers
Barri
Update: Decided to pull the sensor, just to be sure I had it installed correctly. It appears as though the sensor made contact with the teeth. Not enough to really chew it up, but definitely ground it down enough to make some grooves that you could catch your fingernail on. Pretty sure this is what caused my fault. Backed it out a few thousands with a washer, but still bad. Even though the damage did not penetrate the sensor, could it still have damaged it beyond use?
Also, grabbed the hub and it seemed really tight. Could a failing hub seem outwardly good and have the reluctor ring spinning out of round inside?
-Thanks again for all the help.
 

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Hard to say - the actual sensor inside the casing is a tiny magnet about 1mm square as the wheel spins it reads the teeth and the faster the wheel spins the higher the voltage goes. The slabs needs both the generated voltage and the individual spikes from each tooth.

The reluctor ring is part of the inner shaft that the drive shaft goes through running on the inner ring of the bearings, the hub body rides on the outer ring of the bearings, the gap between the 2 should be filled with heavy gearbox oil. The reluctor can be damaged by the rocking of the inner shaft against the outer casing but you would feel that motion when you rock the wheel - if you cannot feel movement with the pads out then its probably fine.
As you have removed the original sensor look through the hole and make sure there is oil in the cavity and that the reluctor ring does not look damaged - if its damaged or the oil has leaked past the bearing seals then its new hub time. Take a measurement of the depth - there should be a 1 - 3mm gap between the end of the sensor and the reluctor and there should be enough oil in the cavity that the oil makes a connection between the end of the sensor and the reluctor ring. If the oil is contaminated or has shavings in it - it generally means the bearings are failing and you need a new hub.
If the sensor is still good and there is a good dollop of oil in the hub cavity and it looks clean then you should be good to go once you get the gap correct.

Remember the oil comes inside the hub from manufacture and the bearings have outer seals on them - its a self contained system inside the hub. The sensor was correctly installed at manufacture and is supposed to be replaced only with the hub so if you remove the sensor then its important to get the depth right and to make sure the inside of the hub is clean and there are no contaminants in it.

The genuine hub costs a lot but there are now lots of reports from the Uk and ROW that the copy BMW hub part number REPL283708 which goes for around $100 with the sensor fitted works well and hold up as well as the original LR part although no one seems to know if its OEM or a knockoff - its used on quite a few other makes - models too evidently.
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are the front and rear hubs the same, except for the lenght of the abs lines? Would like to use a front for that extra length as I am lifted about 5in.
Thanks again for all the help.
 

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I forgot it was for a rear and you were using a front sensor for the length. I am not sure what length of wire comes on the REPL283708 but assume (hate doing that) that it would be the longest wire for the front.
I have not done a rear hub - I know the part numbers are different but that may just be for the shorter wire lengths as they look pretty much identical but I cant give you a definitive answer.
I'll do a bit of checking too.
Yes they are the same - just checked and its seems that they are the same - just the length of abs sensor wire is different. hate to quote another forum but here
http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/rear-anfd-front-wheel-hub-same-56810/
cheers
Barri
 

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Hi Bill
just a shitty picture - I have one in hand and it has 2 pins. When I blew up the picture in your supplier (really good price - I may get a second one from them and do both)
you can see the 2 pins - the connector is slightly angled away from you and the left pin is in deep shadow!

Dont forget if you do the hubs that you should buy a new oring for the rears or a new shaft seal for the fronts :)

cheers
Barri
 

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