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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all.
New to these forums. I have a membership to one of the other rover forums but I am having a hard time tracking down my problems.
I am absolutely stumped

Heres whats up
The rover fires up easily. Have no problems starting it.
Revs up perfectly in neutral
Put it in gear and there is just no power. On flat ground I can go about 100 yards full throttle before it will even think about shifting to 2nd

Ive pulled the engine.
Replaced the head gasket
New Cam
new rod bearings
new timing chain and gear
new fuel pressure regulator
new upgraded injectors
new battery
new filter
good fuel pressure
new coil
new distributor
new plugs
new wires
o2 sensors were cleaned

Check engine light is on

Now drives exactly the same as it did prior.
Approx 210000 miles
Compression is about 120-125 on all

Took it into mechanic. He had it for 4 months and timed the engine. Thats about it. I had to pick it up
Please help me diagnose

Thank you all very much
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I do not think it is tranny related (i don't think)
What I meant was that it takes forever to even get up to speed before shifting
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I received this Rover, all this was already present.

I will admit that when I did the head gasket, I did not have the heads machined.
Totally my fault, but still thought it would drive better after the other improvements.

Would a warped head cause the problems that I am having?
I am getting a white wet vapor out of the exhaust, however I am not getting milky oil.

Also, Could sticky valves cause my issue?
 

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okay, hmmm any restriction to the exhaust? Cats or muffler? seems to be low on compression. is the e-brake frozen, corroded rusted in the drum? You replaced a lot of things, no new rings? or hone of the cylinder walls? o2 sensors cleaned? new ones are better idea, mine go out every 2 years or so, well at least one does..
check engine light, have you cleared the ECU computer?,,unplug it turn on key, turn off key they plug it back in... see if light is off when you start? maf sensor TPS throttle position sensor could be bad..you can check it with volt meter..are you losing coolant? does it run differently when cold or warm? in all the years i have owned my range rovers and read these forums I have never heard of this particular problem, is the timing off 180 degrees? any major vacuum leaks/ i use propane to find these..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
" in all the years i have owned my range rovers and read these forums I have never heard of this particular problem"

Ha this made me laugh. Just my luck haha

I do not believe the exhaust has any blockage.
I reset the emissions relay by pushing button inside. Check engine light turned off and has not gone back on.

I purchased an engine rebuild kit and rings came with, however they were much thicker than my original ones and did not fit. Did not really make sense to me.

Before I went and spent $200 more dollars on O2 sensors, I thought I would clean them. They looked good as they were, however it was not able to really look inside.

The Ebrake is not frozen
I have cleaned 2 MAS that I have. Does not change anything
I do not know how to test the throttle position sensor. I have a voltmeter, but it is still in the box. HAHA I have not learned to use it yet
Timing makes the most sense, but I really really thought that I put the timing gear and chain in correctly.
There is some coolant leaking somewhere and I am getting a white vapor out the exhaust. Head gasket is gonna be changed.

Can a cracked or warped head with sticky lifters cause my problem? I was under the impression that I will lose power, bu not as much as I am experiencing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I called one of my other mechanics and explained what is going on (import auto shop owner)
Here's his response

Get rid of it and cut your losses.
Thinks the liners slipped and would cost $10,000 for a new engine with new sleeves.
Said that parts are becoming scarce and that sooner than later, parts will be obsolete


Thoughts....
 

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Step 1 get new mechanics ?
Step 2 stop speculating.
Knowing beats “I think” Evey time.
A leaking sleeve would not act as you have described. 8 slipped sleeves- maybe?
If I were you I would rule out an exhaust restriction,
If you have not mastered a multimeter I will not attempt to advise diagnoses with a back pressure gauge or even a vacuum gauge ?
Simply..... Make a BIG exhaust leak. Loosen off front pipe to manifold connections and drive it.
Report back here.
 

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TPS and O2 sensors are not going to make a bit of difference when under full throttle.
You could have wrong cam.
You could have fitted the timing chain/cam wrong and your valve timing is out.
You have changed the fuel pressure regulator and you could have fitted the wrong one.
You state that you have fitted upgraded injectors. As there is no such thing, you have obviously fitted the wrong ones.
You have stuffed around with the distributor and timing, are you sure they are now set correct.

You have stuffed around with everything that could be causing your issue. It is impossible on a forum to work out what one you stuffed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will unbolt the exhaust and test

The injectors I ordered said "4 Hole Nozzle Bosch Upgraded 8X Fuel Injectors For 89-98 Land Rover v8"

The cam # was ERR5924

It was at a reputable British 4x4 shop and he set the timing

The fuel pressure regulator was Beck/Arnley 158-0239

This engine was in a different rover that was pretty beat up.
When I received it, I got it running again. Ive been replacing things bit by bit and not one thing has even changed the way it has run.
I am trying to look at what has not been changed yet.
 

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Somewhat agree, but if the timing was “set” bye the mechanic that had it for 4 ? Months then that’s not likely it. But then again he had it 4 months????sounds like they didn’t know or care to know what they were doing to me
But would explain low compression possibly? Fuel pressure would have to be out by a lot I would expect to cause what you describe
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am also going to do a compression test tomorrow.

The mechanic had it for 4 months but does not mean he worked on it for that long.
It just sat there and he kept telling me he would get to it he would get to it.
He did the timing and some other minor stuff earlier and then he was gonna tackle the remaining issues.

I know I did a compression test when I first got it and it was approx 120 in all, but that is just my memory from months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I must admit that I really should have gone through and fully rebuilt the heads and figured out the rings when the engine was out.
 

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The next most common issue is the distributor. So get one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-1960-70s-ACTRON-DC-Power-Clamp-On-Timing-Light-No-L-204-Style-6182-VG-Con/163594082850?epid=1123587015&hash=item2616f79a22:g:YkwAAOSwUvFciFhN to check that it is set properly and is operating correctly.
The main shaft in the distributor is actually two shafts with the top section rotating on the bottom. The amount of rotation is controlled by spring loaded weights in the bottom part of the distributor that you can't see. The two halves are held together by a plastic clip. Over time that clip becomes brittle. It is easily broken if people pull too hard on the rotor button when changing it. This causes the two halves to seperate and the springs come off the weights. The person who broke it usually just pushes the shaft back down and it looks OK, but it isn't. Your timing will be all over the place without the springs to control it.

Once you get you timing light you will be able to check if it is OK without pulling it apart. You just make sure the timing advances when you rev the motor and returns as you go back to idle.

The Vacuum advance on the distributor is only there for better fuel economy, it will not affect your power. But you can check that it is working with the timing light. Simply disconnect the vacuum advance hose where it connects to the throttle body. With the motor running and your timing light connected, simply suck on the hose to see if the timing advances. It should hold the more advanced timing by simply putting your tongue over the end of the hose once you sucked it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Compression test is in

Pass side from firewall to front
98
100
99
110
Drivers side from firewall to front
115
112
110
124
 

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Compression test is in

Pass side from firewall to front
98
100
99
110
Drivers side from firewall to front
115
112
110
124
Compression tests do not mean a lot. They can vary considerably for no good reason. A vacuum gauge will tell you a lot more about the state of the motor.
 

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Go back to basics. Check fuel pressure at regulator. You’ll have to pull hose and t in a pressure gauge. Harbor freight do a nice kit. Check pressure. When under load it may not deliver volume. You can get a Chevy cavalier pump asst and install. You have to drain and drop tank in that model.
 
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