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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
SOLVED: My Landy will not start w/o small shot of starting fluid-- then runs beautifully. Backround: 105k, beautifully kept in southern Cal location. New Pertronix distr complete w/ cap, rtr, and coil, new plugs. New fuel filter. Replaced itertia switch. New Fuel injection Corp maf before I bought truck. Fuel pressure tests at schrader valve 29 to 34#, jumps from 0 to30# quickly w/ key on, very little drop over time (couple of hrs). (Disconnected pressure reg vacuum line, pressure reading jumped to 38#.) Once started and warm-- turn off, try to start immed will still take 5 seconds crank to start. After 1 hr, takes 15 seconds cranking. Does not appear to be flooding out at injectors-- no black smoke etc. As soon as it gets a bit of starting fluid, fires right up and drives like crazy: good accel when stomped on, will do 70mph easily. This model does not have a crank position sensor. What would be stopping fuel needed to start + run? From postings, 80rpm is required to initiate fuel flow. Where is that measured? No codes on display under pass seat.
 

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I wonder if the fuel pump is letting the upstream fuel (tank side) leak back, draining the supply line. I had this problem on a much older carburetor engine and the fuel pump had just had it. It worked fine once it was running but would drain the supply line back into the tank when off. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Finally got my pressure gauge sealed well, so I could see if there is leakdown. The gauge has stayed at 32-33# for 3+ hrs-- no drop at all. So, leakage into cylinders not likely. When I squirt starting fluid into intake, starts immediately. So it appears to me that there is ignition spark to plugs, but injectors are not firing allowing fuel. Where does the message to fire injectors come from, or where does it get blocked? I have no objection to tearing into the fuel pump system. It appears to get a message from the fuel pump relay and pressures up fast and well. Would a return problem cause the injectors to not introduce fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Spent some time reading and digging near the dist. Other posts say white/blk out of distrib detects pulses, sends to ECU. Below distrib was a lump of wiring, taped over (old tape). Unwrapped, found two Lucas RD953066 resistors. Wired in an interesting way: INTO each resistor: white/blk from coil. OUT: separate white w/ blue into harness. Tested resistors: one was 6.8 and one was 6.5. Should there be two resistors? Both disappear into harness as white/blue. Separate one, engine runs w/o change. Unplug the other, engine dies.
 

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Drives like an old man
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I don't think it's leaking into the cylinders but rather back into the tank. If that were the case, it might take a few seconds for the fuel pump to re-prime and produce fuel at pressure to the injectors. I'm really only guessing. I have no experience with the 3.9. Hopefully someone who does will chime in. In the meantime, I'd download a wiring diagram to see what the deal is with those resistors. I don't think that's the problem, but I've been wrong before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Spent some signif time searching old posts re: cranks, does not start, does not flood the cylinders. Likely injectors not firing. White/blk wire off coil, two wires w/ 6.8 ohm resistors in each, into harness to ecu etc. Polished all contacts etc. Fuel system checks out. Runs near perfect once started. Back in 2010, there was a posting of a similar situation. The solution: a new starter to increase the engine spin! Any info available re: spin rate required to initiate spark, spin rate of starter, and recommended/preferred starter would certainly be appreciated. Battery in it when bought is newer but a cheap rebuilt one. My other experiences w/ a MB is: install a solid battery. Many cars esp European demand a fully charged quality battery. This truck is just plain a beauty and worth the effort!
 

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Drives like an old man
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She is indeed a beauty. I know that slightly low batteries will cause all sorts of goofy, seemingly unrelated problems. Since you'll need one anyway, why not go ahead and put a GOOD battery in and see if that helps. As for required RPMs to start, you may have to search to find that, though I've seen it posted.

Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was planning on putting in a high grade battery. So, to see if it would improve things, I "borrowed" one from my main project: installing a 5 cyl Mercedes diesel in my 1951 Willys wagon. Made all the difference in the freakin' world! Gets enough spin in a few seconds to activate injector firing. Has worked well w/ it after warmed up, will find out about cold start tomorrow a.m.It required a new alternator-- got it. It required a new distributor-- got it. It got a full tuneup. All good. I fell into the old and often abused trap of 'its the fuel system'. No? Then, its the spark system. Overlooked the most basic: the battery. I did some learnin', and I hope this helps others diagnose and repair in the future.
 
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