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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
95 lwb 4.2l.

i have noticed a slight ticking noise on the left side of the engine. i note that it is more louder when cold and less when warm. it does vary with throttle, but beyond a certain rpm it cant be heard either becuase its drowned out or other reasons. it is definitely a top end type noise and not a thumping or deep knock.

the best that i can describe is it sounds like fuel injectors ticking, but a bit louder, and its only on one of the engine.

i was thinking it was lifters or possibly exhaust. i just put this out there if others have tackled this issue.
 

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Take a long screwdriver. Put the handle end up to your ear and place the metal tip on parts of the motor where you think the noise is coming. The screwdriver acts like a cheap stethoscope. It will help you locate the ticking. My first thought is that the ticking is an exhaust leak either between the head and the exhaust manifold or at the manifold and downpipe. Both, in the grand scheme of things, rather easy fixes.
 

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Ooh thank you paul. I like the cheap steth idea. Also- Grab your trusty can of PB blaster, and with the engine idling spray some on the manifold where it attaches to the head. If the engine revs up... most defintely an exhaust leak on the manifold. Did one this past summer. As paul said, an easy job.... as long as you lube up those manifold bolts with PB blaster and you do not break any off in the head.. then you have a fun afternoon on your hands. :complain::complain:

If it is that... buy the replacement kits and bolts so you have them, and think about what other things might need replacing while in it... ie: is your check engine light on? O2 sensors... donut gasket for manifold to cat pipe etc...

Good luck respond back with what you do
 

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Try checking your vacuum hoses. They can make a pfft-pfft-pfft sound if they've come disconnected.

If it's a leaking exhaust gasket you might be able to pinpoint the leak. Put some dish soap and water in a spray bottle. With a cold engine, drench the seams where the the manifolds meet the engine block and down pipes. When you start the engine up you ought to be able to see little bubbles or froth. You'll only have a minute or so before the soap water evaporates.

Also, an old or poorly adjusted fan belt can make a slow ticking sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Followup report. I think I found it. I used a piece of tubing and tried to locate the noise....before I ruled out lifters etc BC I could not hear metal clicking on valve covers with screwdriver test.

I noticed that I have 2 separate noises...one was coming from exhaust header at front and also one from the belt.

The exhaust manifold bolts had a lock on them but I was surprised to find that they were loose. A couple of turns and major sounds were cured.

I still had another noise it was due to loose serpentine belt and the belt had a piece missing from track rubber creating a slight tiff noise.


So it was mainly exhaust noise but supplemented by a bad belt tension and bad belt....
 

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The exhaust manifold bolts are supposed to have an anti-seize compound applied to them to prevent this from happening... usually loctite or something similar. This is a light-weight glue that keeps the bolts from moving on you, but also keeps them from seizing (a *major* PITA).

You may want to take the loose bolts out, and add some loctite to the threads, then re-torque to 20Nm (firm twist with a screw driver, if you don't have a torque wrench). If you do it one bolt at a time, then the gaskets should stay in place for you.
 

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If anyone ever figures out this godforsaken ticking PLEASE let me know. My 95 LWB 4.2 runs great but I have had that horrible ticking for the past 2yrs. It gets worse as the engine gets warmer. I owned a garage for the past 16 years. My mechanics have replaced everything that Range Rover advised we replace. I have been the only owner of the car and have have kept it in immaculate condition. Car has 100,510 miles on it.
 

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If anyone ever figures out this godforsaken ticking PLEASE let me know. My 95 LWB 4.2 runs great but I have had that horrible ticking for the past 2yrs. It gets worse as the engine gets warmer. I owned a garage for the past 16 years. My mechanics have replaced everything that Range Rover advised we replace. I have been the only owner of the car and have have kept it in immaculate condition. Car has 100,510 miles on it.
Could be a slipped liner. Does it it quieten down up in the higher revs?
 

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The exhaust manifold bolts are supposed to have an anti-seize compound applied to them to prevent this from happening... usually loctite or something similar. This is a light-weight glue that keeps the bolts from moving on you, but also keeps them from seizing (a *major* PITA).
Just to clarify, anti seize does not act as a thread locker. Loctite is a brand and they do have an anti-seize but they also make thread lockers (271 and 242 most prominently) I would not suggest using any type of thread locker on any exhaust bolts. The heat will destroy the compound and it will probably end up locking - seizing the bolts, thus worsening your problem of fastener removal. Us a good anti-seize for high temps and you will be fine.
Also the bent tabs are what is supposed to keep the bolts torqued. Multiple heat cycles and gasket set is what causes them to loosen.
 
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