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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had major problems getting the fuel filter changed on my 97 disco. It was the original filter and the internal parts were loose and the fittings were completely rusted and stuck on. Yes I tried ever trick I could think of. Minus heating the bolts with a torch. I like to live.
So I had to cut the hoses (as close the to filter as I could) holding the fittings that screwed to the filter. Leave a lot on the vehicle.
To fix this I had to get a wix premium filter #33252. It's about $33!! Then two 1/4 inch barbs with thread fittings on one end and 2 female to male fittings to fit from the barb thread to the filter threads. I got them from oriellys air tool section. Needs to be brass fittings. Two hose clamps to fit the 1/2 inch. outside diameter hoses.
When you put all the fittings on make they are TIGHT or fuel will leak!!! Make sure you note which way the flow arrow points cause if you get fuel on the arrow marking it will wash right off!!!
 

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Based on your idea.... " I like to live ", then you might want to rethink this design. Not that you are going to die, but you will have issues.

First NPT barbed/reducer fittings with no o-ring are going to leak fuel. Even if you used Teflon pipe tape(which I don't see and you shouldn't). Second use a proper hose clamp made for Fuel Injection not a coolant hose. And/Or next time just use WIX3161 for the fuel filter.

Wix 33161 & Napa 3161 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Store - Wix, Fram, Baldwin, Luberfiner

And AB has this kit BUT still get a proper set of clamps!!
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8989

This kit is a better option if you want to use the threaded filter. Or just go to a hydraulic line shop and have them make the 2 lines (will be way cheaper) http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1677G

Clamps are like this Fuel Hoses
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I live in a small town and was in a time pinch. AB takes a week unless I spend $50 for overnight shipping which I don't have.
The wix and the fuel clamps won't leak?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This didn't even fix the problem I had when I was wanting to change the filter. I turn the key and the wants to start but it can't get enough fuel to fire. Most of the time if I pump the gas it will turn over but it takes a couple minutes of pumping before I can get it to move before it dies. I'm guessing the fuel pump (since the fuel filter was prob 100,000 miles old at least) or the pressure regulator. Any suggestions?
 

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This didn't even fix the problem I had when I was wanting to change the filter. I turn the key and the wants to start but it can't get enough fuel to fire. Most of the time if I pump the gas it will turn over but it takes a couple minutes of pumping before I can get it to move before it dies. I'm guessing the fuel pump (since the fuel filter was prob 100,000 miles old at least) or the pressure regulator. Any suggestions?
There is actually a filter on the bottom of the pump, inside the white canister section. This can often clog up and will stop the fuel getting through.
 

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Pumping does not let fuel into throttle body in a fuel injected vehicle if low on pressure. Remove carpet and rubber mat in back cargo area and unscrew the access hole to the fuel pump and check for voltage. Might put fuel pressure gauge on fuel test valve on fuel line at manifold and see if you have pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks I will do that as soon as I get my truck started and get home lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How much pressure should I get at the rail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you!!!!!
 

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The easier way to resolve fuel filter issues is to remove the crimped on ferrules from the hardline on the truck and remove the hose/filter. You'll find barbs on the steel line that you can slip EFI hose over and then use a barbed filter and clamps.

Given your nearly 20 year old truck, my money is on fuel pump. There are two models, one significantly more expensive than the other,

If you have a round evaporative canister you can use the less epxensiv eone, but if it's rectangular, you have an AEL truck and need the fancy pump.

I have non-AEL pumps in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok so today I'm gonna break into the tank I hope. The screws are rusted to ****. But if I get to the pump, do I take the filter off and clean (soap n water/ chemicals?) or do I need to order a new one? And how do I go about checking the voltage? Thank you very much!!!!
 

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Ok so today I'm gonna break into the tank I hope. The screws are rusted to ****. But if I get to the pump, do I take the filter off and clean (soap n water/ chemicals?) or do I need to order a new one? And how do I go about checking the voltage? Thank you very much!!!!
Dood!

It is not the filter, it is the pump. You have a 20 year-old truck where most of these pumps were already replaced, you've been on borrowed time for 10-15 years already!

The power to the pump is white/purple striped wire. It will only have power for 3-5 seconds upon turning the key to the on position if the truck doesn't start running. Run your probes so you can see the meter or circuit tester from the driving position.

Cross your fingers that you have the non-AEL or you're gonna be hating life. Given your comment about the rusted screws, you're certain to find the fittings on the top of the pump rusted and the Cheap Bastard repair will make you hate life even more. I suspect you'll be calling me for compression fittings as well as the fittings are likely rusted badly as well and won't want to release their death grip on the pump inlet/outlet fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Are you a dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is AEL the rectangular box next to the fuse box??
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Can the pump be rebuilt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dood!

It is not the filter, it is the pump. You have a 20 year-old truck where most of these pumps were already replaced, you've been on borrowed time for 10-15 years already!

The power to the pump is white/purple striped wire. It will only have power for 3-5 seconds upon turning the key to the on position if the truck doesn't start running. Run your probes so you can see the meter or circuit tester from the driving position.

Cross your fingers that you have the non-AEL or you're gonna be hating life. Given your comment about the rusted screws, you're certain to find the fittings on the top of the pump rusted and the Cheap Bastard repair will make you hate life even more. I suspect you'll be calling me for compression fittings as well as the fittings are likely rusted badly as well and won't want to release their death grip on the pump inlet/outlet fittings.
So do I just stick a paperclip down beside the wire in the connector and put my positive probe on it with the negative on the frame. Then turn the key to position one?
I turned the key to see if I could hear the pump kick on, I heard humming for a couple seconds. Not sure if that means it's working or not.

Could it be the Crankshaft position sensor? I heard that can cause issues.

Im just trying to think of everything before i pay for a new pump.
Thank you Very MUCH!!!
 

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OK, let's back up.

What is the condition we are trying to resolve?

Fuel pressure? Don't you dare tell me "The pressure's fine, when I pushed in the valve, fuel sprayed out". We need a true pressure reading.
 
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