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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Problem started out of the blue - truck's been running great for a year. Then today, hard to start in the AM, got it going, drove for one block, M&S started flashing, rough running, then stalled. Now it won't run. It will turn over once in a while but will only run for seconds, then stalls. M&S flashing through all this.

Codes: P1884, P0335, P0336 and "pending" P1668. (BTW, what's a "pending" trouble code?) Let the car sit for an hour, checked battery terminals (clean, solid connection) and it started right up. Then seconds later sputtered and stalled. Cleared codes and they come right back when I try to start.

Any suggestions from the community? Thank you!
 

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Maybe your battery is on it's way out or the charging system is making tricks, first of all give a good charge to the battery or connect it with jump leads to another running car then try to start it, measure voltage on the battery while cranking, if it drops below 10V it will not start and you need a strong battery, if it will refuse to start without the voltage to drop below 10V replace the crankshaft speed and position sensor, codes 0335 and 0336 are both referring to the crank sensor signal to ECM, 1884 is CAN message to autobox also can refer to engine speed and 1668 is about the security immobiliser code which can be triggered by low voltage during prolonged cranking without starting

if you manage to start it measure voltage on the battery to rule out a bad alternator, you should get around 14V at idle
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Battery is good. 14.5 at idle, 12.5+ with engine off and when starting.

The good news is it started this morning and I was able to drive it home with the M&S lights flashing. At least now it's in front of our house and not a neighbor's. After parking, the M&S lights went out and it idled just fine. Turned off and re-started with no problems. Trouble code P0335 was still there and P0336 was pending. I cleared the codes and they have not come back.

I haven't driven the car more than to my house. I'll take it on a few short runs today and see if the trouble codes come back.
 

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P1884 is almost always set in combination with other codes.
P0335 and p0336 are both c.p.s. Codes (crankshaft position sensor - VERY common failure item on these trucks
I think it would be safe to assume that you need a crank position sensor

Search similar threads, do some reading and I think you will agree with me.
Good luck
 

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special agent redtruck12 x 2 change the CPS they are a weak point

although the flashing M&S shouldn't be there either so maybe check that all of your grounds are good particularly the ecu ground as that is the ground for the CPS signal. You can have a great battery but if the ground is lousy then you can get a flashing M&S

the pending P1668
P1668 LAND ROVER Anti-Theft Alarm serial link faultDrive cycle A:Signal out of range - above maximum

might also point to a bad ground if the battery is fully charged.
cheers
Barri
 

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Bad crank signal can trigger M+S warnings through CAN that's why that 1884 code was present IMO cos it was for "CAN invalid engine speed signal" ... and that's caused by the crank sensor as i explained in my first reply ... without excluding low voltage which off course can be caused by a bad earth
 

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Bad crank signal can trigger M+S warnings through CAN that's why that 1884 code was present IMO cos it was for "CAN invalid engine speed signal" ... and that's caused by the crank sensor as i explained in my first reply ... without excluding low voltage which off course can be caused by a bad earth
I think you have to be a little careful saying that Fery - there are 8 separate 1884 errors that are referred to as PROBLEMS DETECTED WITH DRIVER DEMAND.
they range from just about everything but basically say that the accelerator input (and associated fuel and air inputs) does not account for the speed seen at the ABS reluctor ring. The only sub error related to engine speed will lock you in 2nd gear high range or keep you in low range as a hard fault limp home mode.
the most common problem associated with 1884 is a broken MAF or a major air leak as they affect speed to accelerator input the most.
Ive attached the list for you
cheers
Barri
 

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Yes Barri, i know those 1884 faults i was referring only to the 1884(35) as the OP didnt mention it's number cos maybe it was read with a generic OBD2 reader and corroborated with the crank signal faults IMO it can trigger the M+S lights, i quote myself from post #2 in this thread
sierrafery said:
...... if it will refuse to start without the voltage to drop below 10V replace the crankshaft speed and position sensor, codes 0335 and 0336 are both referring to the crank sensor signal to ECM, 1884 is CAN message to autobox also can refer to engine speed and 1668 is about the security immobiliser code which can be triggered by low voltage during prolonged cranking without starting
:wink

though which CAN message is related to MAF signal ???
 

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I think you misunderstand me again
the OP didn't mention being stuck in limp home mode and 1884 (35) is always associated with a locked transmission limp home mode. It is most likely then that his fault is not 1884 (35) but one of the other 1884 faults. These faults are all linked in one group called driver demand - items that affect engine speed to road speed ratio. The most of these are related to air /fuel mix as they affect the ratio the most and the most likely of these is the MAF.
cheers
Barri
 

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Hi Barri, maybe we just misunderstand each other and that's not your fault cos i'm thinking in one language and write in another:serious ... i dont want to contradict you, we can have a friendly polemic cos it might be educative for all, i'll try to explain better my theory, maybe we find a common point:wink

IMHO that connection of the P1884 code with MAF or air/fuel mix doesnt sound good to me cos here we speak about a specific ZF autobox ECU code not generic OBD2 one, this P1884(with a number attached as in the list you kindly attached from RAVE) is stored in the EAT ECU based on a PWM signal through CAN by the engine ECU and it's connected directly with the codes stored in the engine ECU(ECM) at that time so as those in the ECM were about crank sensor signal the logical presumption for me is that the CAN code to EAT ECU is related cos the ECM deffinitely sends that information to the EAT according to the diagnostic protocol, the description of limp mode induced by P1884(35) is valid for the case when it occurs while driving but as there is a crank signal failure which doesnt let the engine to be started the P1884(35) will be stored in the EAT ECU without any limp mode as the vehicle is stationary

the second argument against MAF connection to this code is that all the EAT codes(1884 incuded) are the same no matter what engine is fitted, in D2's case for Td5 too which it's perfectly driveable without MAF at all and with it disconnected there will be no 1884 code in the EAT even though there is a MAF related code stored in the ECM, the driver demand is fully electronic so for driver demand is P1884(18) which is triggered if the ECM logs a throttle position sensor code, in the same logic P1884(20) will be stored if the VSS signal from the SLABS ECU is missing/trunkated, nothing to do with driver demand or air/fuel mixture, all the 1884 versions have a corresponding code in the ECM that's why they are all named "CAN message" cos they come through CAN bus from the ECM

i hope you understand what i'm trying to say now and i apologise if i offended you with that
 

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thanks for your thoughts - I'm sure you understand it better than me so lets just agree to disagree on this one
keep well
cheers
Barri
 

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I agree:smile
 

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Theories theories theories
Blah blah blah.....
Pthork, you need to replace your crankshaft position sensor (p0335 + p0336) the p1884 will almost definitely go away when you replace that sensor.
If you want a theory read a book. I have read a few myself but have also been fixing automotive problems for more than 30 years.
If you want to fix your truck replace the c.p.s., clear the codes and drive it
 

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:frown Maybe others are interested about how this works, the theory stays at the base of all fixes.... as about this fix you say i quote myself from post 2:
sierrafery said:
.... if it will refuse to start without the voltage to drop below 10V replace the crankshaft speed and position sensor.....
that was before i had a friendly chat with Barri about the possible causes :serious
 
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