Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been going through the forum to try and get some answers -- see a whole of of similar problems, but not clear on what may have solved the issue, so creating this new thread.

My son's 99 DII has 140k miles, had a major service within the last 30 days, and a new battery. Runs beautifully, has always started right up with no problems. We were out for a short rise, maybe 20 minutes, pull into the driveway and stop. 5 minutes later, he goes to move it, and it won't start. Couple starter clicks, but won't turn over. Battery is fine, no fried fuses, connections all seem to be clear. Had no warning, no problems leading up to this point.

I've had starters go out before, and they were always intermittent before dying. This thing just won't start. Based on what others have experienced, what should be my checklist? Unlike soooo many other posters, my plan is to come back and talk about what worked, so please let me know where to start. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
If your starter is "clicking" when energized - I would first consider battery condition (though new) as well as connections.
A rather easy "no tools" check is to turn on the headlights and see if they dim excessively when the starter is engaged.
A strong battery with good connections should not allow the headlights to dim much.

It is easy to swap the starter relay with one of its neighbors to test, but if your solenoid is clicking - that seems to be moot.

It will be nice to hear of your resolution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
Battery is my guess. When I had my shop fix my disco they said I had a dead battery.

Turned key and "CLICK"...nothing. even though lights would on intermittently.

Checked terminals....found I had to bang the negative terminal down because it wasn't seated right and thus not making a proper connection. It looked normal, when inspected it was loose as hell.

Battery is strong as ever. Usually something out of the blue like that is something loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Exactly the same situation with me. I am okay with pre-computer automotive technology, but iffy on the electrics of my 2001 Bosch Petrol V8, no CDL. Suddenly yesterday, I realised no flywheel motion on ignition switch activation. Single, very light clicks of the starter solenoid the first two tries, then nothing. The clicks were not of the type associated with solenoid travel, just of relay travel. All accessory functions remain robust, even with ignition switch held on contact. No headlamp variation. No motion detected at the solenoid. Battery is about 9 months old, fully charged by volt meter and acid. Posts are solid, clean. No variance with any manipulation of the brake pedal or shift lever positions. Starter wire connections seem solid, clean. No corrosion evident.

Because of these observed conditions, I think limited or intermittent amperage is making it to the starter relay switch. I don't think any amperage is activating or leaving the starter relay switch.

I'm pre-supposing that this vehicle uses some type of starter relay though, and the starter position looks like you have to pull the engine to get to it.............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
There's a solenoid on the starter that actuates the starter drive and also acts as the main power switching relay. When the key is activated, 12vdc is sent to the trigger terminal on the solemoid, which engages the drive and closes the relay. You'll hear a good "clunk" if this is working OK. Provided you have a good battery with a decent charge level and clean connections at the battery and ground, the starter should turn. You can either get a failure on the primary side (no solenoid function at all) or on the secondary side (solenoid engages but relay switch does not conduct). I have a small hand-held trigger gizmo that works great for diagnosing these situations. It lets me apply 12v directly to the trigger terminal. You can use a screwdriver or sometimes an old pair of pliers to do the same. You can also jump from the battery terminal to the starter V-in lead but expect some big sparks. It's crude, but it works.

These are pretty robust starters. I have had a few apart with well over 100k on them and the brushes were over 75%, But the solenoids get cooked being so close to the exhaust. It is not uncommon for the heat shields to be left off by prior owners who decided they weren't really necessary. Getting the starter off isn't easy. It takes a 10mm Allen socket tool. 3/8" fits but will strip and then you have a HUGE problem because the inside bolt is between the engine and the starter body. Make sure to clean the bolt sockets out before attempting tool insertion. You're going to need about 18" of extension to get back in there past the mounts. Make sure to keep the extensions straight and the tool squarely engaged. Those bolts may be somewhat stuck from a very long time of being in there. Pull the wires and the two bolts and the starter drops free.

If you have not done so already, download the RAVE manual. It shows every view of every part and provides detailed R&R procedures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Maybe 40 years ago I had a similar problem with my '65 Mustang.

In that case the problem was the connection of the positive cable at the starter. Not the solenoid, the big cable. I just disconnected and cleaned it and it worked like a charm. There was nothing visibly bad about the connection but something was keeping it from getting enough juice to turn the starter motor.

Let us know what your solution is.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top