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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i might be buying an 95 disco I with roughly 200k on the odometer. the owner is a female that did not driving offroad at all. vehicle has all the service records and drove prety well when i took it for a test drive. its the SE7 correct me if im wronge but thats the loaded one? the only thing is that she said it has an exhaust leak. after looking threw it there seems to be a small leak around one of the headers and in the middle of the muffler. her asking price is 3k for it. is this too much too pay. im really new to the rovers so anymore input would be greatly apreciated. there is also a small amount of oxidation onn the hood.


how hard is it to fix the leak? could it be a driveway prodject with some minor tools?

thanks alot and always... RALLY ON!! :rellye
 

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of course! what was I thinking?

who could forget such fine suppliers such as DAP and Red Rhino (www.get-rhino.com) :)

but seriously, ive been to both sites, and they both have good selection. though i havn't ordered from them yet.
 

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3k is "in there", but it's still a truck with 200k miles. If you don't run it hard, and take proper care of it, it may last you a long time. But, I'd find out if things like wheel bearing, wheel seals, and U-Joints have been address in the past.

Common problems with these trucks are fuel pumps, window regulators, exhaust leaks, O2 Sensors, and oil leaks.

Unless you have the ability, I'd take the truck, first thing, and have all the fluids changed. Partially, the diff's and CV joint housings. A woman may know to change the oil, but when it comes to other things, they may/may not have a clue. Unless the transmission fluid looks nasty, I'd leave it alone. It seems most transmission failures found in Rover come shortly after a trans-flush.....unless it's been done from new.

Exhaust gaskets are cheap, for an independent shop like DAP or Nathan. You will also want the "Y-Pipe" connector gasket aswell....the small hole in the center of the muffler is normal, and is meant to be there.

3k is "fair", but plan on putting about another 500-1000.00 into it over the first 2-months....I think that's true with any used car.

Even still, if it ever came down to it, you can get a 3.9L motor for about 500.00, used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hmmmm.. i just want one sooo damn bad. i dont want to jump on the first thing. so it might actually be better if i just wait till i find something with less miles and a lil more money.
 

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Thanks for the kind words about DAP- I'll do anything I can to help you guys with your trucks. We watch prices on stuff and about 85% of our parts are priced lower than anywhere else (comparing apples to apples though- we don't sell no-name stuff or "fake" brand name stuff). The other 15% is the same. Don't ask me to price match an oem hose or something when comparing to another one made in Uzbekistan out of recylcled Trabant tyres though.

The gaskets for the down-pipes are cheap, and you'll want new nuts for those too. There's a few Discos running around with cracked manifolds too- those are expensive, even used, but Will Tillery in Richmond VA is a great source for those.

I can just about guarantee you that the 200K Disco will have a stuck CDL and probably the original fluids in the transfer case and axels. I'm betting you're looking at $2500 to bring that truck up to "reliable" shape. If the water pump isn't recent, it's on borrowed time- as is the belt tensioner and alternator. Radiators with that many miles often don't transfer heat well- the metal breaks down and just doesn't transfer. Swivels- empty? Probably.

It's always best to try to find an enthusiast who loves their truck instead of someone who just drove the life out of it and is looking to throw it away. 95's are my favourite year for the D1 though... that's for sure. And if you get it and decide to put a new cap and rotor on it- DON'T pull the rotor up to remove it from the distributor. Break it with a whack from a chisel. Trust me on this one- I get a call just about every day about broken distributors on 95's. When you pull up on the rotor, it breaks the retainer on the dizzy shaft and it cannot be replaced.

Anyway- from your description, I'd walk away. Sorry...
 
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