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OK, show us how it is the wrong information??? Have you been envolved with installing and testing the different re-chips or re-programming that have been available in the past? I was for 5 or 6 months at the Rover dealership where I was the service manager, and we did our tests before and after on a Dino which is the only true test.
Hi Mike, this is in no way trying to argue with you(as you are one of the few people on these boards whose opinion I respect). I had this done in October of 2007 which was about 90,000 miles ago. You and I have discussed this before on here(March of 2012). I told you how my mechanic(who is a very reputable rover mechanic here in Utah) had been trying to get a hold of Powerchip last year as he has liked how it had been working in my 99 D2. By the way, I did get a hold of them through email recently and they got right back with me.

As a reminder, this was the last comment you had in regards to this particular chip that I run in my truck:

That one has been around for years, I nearly gave them a try 6 or 7 years ago but never wanted to lay out the cash, not knowing if it really worked.
Let us know if you ever get in touch with them.
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Mike
 

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Thanks again Mike! just getting ready to do heads and now in going to do alot more to be sure my Disco will stay rovin!
 

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DiscoBob posted this link this morning and it is a must read for anyone looking to open up their engine for a head gasket job, valve train noise repair and all sort of other facts.
Take the time to read this, RPi Engineering - V8 Engines
Thank you for the post!! Diving into this deep, as it is time to deal with the gaskets..


03 Discovery, Michigan Motorsports rebuild installed in '09..with 92K on orig veh. Now 162K
radiator replaced in '14..(uhh Houston why'd ya wait so long?)
still overheats in AZ summers on those 'roads'..or donkey trails or whatever..
3/19/15 180 thermo just arrived, along with new driveshaft!
Hoping the 180 thermo may help save on gaskets in the future..
 

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TTY bolt install

First off, I hope this isn't out of place, I know that this thread is mostly talking about ECU remapping, but it's also about head gasket repair and I wanted to share something I learned that I haven't heard anywhere else. Maybe it belongs in another thread, especially Sobienski's about his HG job, but thought this would be a good place since anyone that comes here looking for info on a HG job will more than likely read this thread.

Surprisingly, I did not have a problem getting a 90 degree turn on my TTY bolts. I was confused for a while and started thinking about why this was (I've driven the truck almost 300 miles trying to get all the smog info updated, however, as of now I'm still not get an evaporation read from the comp. This is a whole other story and very frustrating since there are no codes). Okay back on track, so I remembered what I did and I'm quite sure this is why I had no problem and I think this well help other people that decide to go with TTY bolts.

I jacked up the motor, not very high at all, maybe an inch, two at most. I used 1/2" breaker bar with small extension and socket. I had no problem getting 90 degree turns on #8 cyl bolts. I think jacking the motor up a little gave me the clearance from the firewall. I jacked up the motor thinking I would remove motor mounts, then decided screw it. If you do this, you'll have trouble clearing the lower bolt on #7 cyl, so lower it back down. Maybe my truck was just a little different, but hope this might help someone out there doing a HG job.
 

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If you didn't use a torque angle gauge, you got an approximation. I've yet to see a torque angle gauge that will fit without dropping the mounts.

As I have written before, I'm guessing that's why so many of the broken head bolts occur in that location.
 

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Ahhhh, yeah thanks for calling me out CT. My angle gauge was crap and not working right (operator error I'm sure), so I just used a framing square to make a mark. 2k miles and no problems so far - fingers crossed.
 

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Hope so.

I have found yet another D2 with a somewhat-recent head gasket job done to it and that back bolt on the left side snapped off. The only theory I can come up with is the failure to use an angle gauge on that one due to clearance. Why else would there be regular breakages on that bolt onlynot long after head gasket replacement? If it was a design issue, the right front is exactly the same.
 

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I have a digital "beeping/vibrating" Matco torque wrench, used mostly for BMW & Mercedes work in the past, ARP has the solution to Rover TTY inaccuracies, ARP is what I used on both my D1, D2 and will use on the current D2 I just purchased. IMO, take the boutique store angle gauge and see how many "skips" you can get on flat water, they are not accurate based on loose calibration, tight operating spaces on the truck and poor build quality.

Doug
 

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TTY is a production technology. It works lust fine in the closed, close-tolerance environment of an engine production facility. It doesn't lend itself to the repair industry, where so many variables exist, including technician errors, unwillingness to follow directions or lack of skill. TTY is a complex piece of metallurgical technology that the average wrench-thrower likely isn't even aware of or has taken the time to understand, hence the lack of concern for following the procedures precisely.

The ARP solution is pretty much bulletproof. And I simply don't comprehend the resistance. They're under $200 and replace an item with a known propensity for failure. I guess if your time has no value to you and you have a thing for re-doing jobs you've just recently done then they are a waste of money, but I can't say I know anyone with the skill to do head gaskets on a Rover V-8 that would do it for $200.

On the topic of TTY, I find it comical that since the manual doesn't specify, many believe there is no need to replace TTY rod bolts in these engines. Again, it reflects a total lack of understanding on how these fasteners function.
 

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Well, for anyone doing this job. If you get the head gasket kit from Lucky 8, you get new TTY bolts with the kit and the whole thing is like $80. Unfortunately for me, having them in possession was too much temptation to put them on, instead of paying $200 for the ARP (especially when I wasn't even sure the head gasket was my main problem, was worried block was bad but turns out that's not the case).

ARP studs are definitely going on the next one, and current cheap angle gauge is going for a swim.
 

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Another move I would definitely recommend against. As marginal as the Rover V-8's head/block interface and fastening system is, cheap gaskets is pretty much Russian Roulette. The third leg in this trifecta is having the heads machined by someone that doesn't know what Ra is.
 

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Well, for anyone doing this job. If you get the head gasket kit from Lucky 8, you get new TTY bolts with the kit and the whole thing is like $80. Unfortunately for me, having them in possession was too much temptation to put them on, instead of paying $200 for the ARP (especially when I wasn't even sure the head gasket was my main problem, was worried block was bad but turns out that's not the case).

ARP studs are definitely going on the next one, and current cheap angle gauge is going for a swim.
When most quality head sets are as much as $160 or more & TTY bolts are about $80, you can't be serious about quality. But it's your truck and the experience is valuable for doing it again. There's no reason to explain if advice based upon experience is not valuable to you.

Doug
 

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You have to be careful with using ARP studs.

They have a lot more clamping force that the old Rover head bolts for the same torque.

If you tighten to the specs recommended by ARP you WILL distort your heads and severely crush the gaskets.

From experience, I would not recommend tightening them past 70ft/lb
 

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http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/157-4301.pdf

TORQUE PROCEDURE
9. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence, shown below, torque the nuts per steps 1-4

1- Tighten nuts 1 through 10 to 25 ft-lbs
2- Tighten nuts 1 through 10 to 50 ft-lbs
3- Tighten nuts 1 through 10 to 70 ft-lbs
Obviously they finally changed them in Dec 2016. They use to have it set up around 100ft/lb which was way too high

I was not the only one that had issues with the torque specified by ARP https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/95290-rover-v8-head-stud-issue/
 

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That's the trouble with getting information on Internet forums. Alot of folks are posting information that's either incorrect or out-of date.
 

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That's the trouble with getting information on Internet forums. Alot of folks are posting information that's either incorrect or out-of date.
It was not out-of-date until 7 months ago and ARP have been selling the studs for decades. So if someone buys a kit that was manufactured more than 7 months ago, it will have the old torque figures in the kit.

ARP originally made studs that did not go far enough into the block and they were ripping out. Due to consumer complaints, they increased the length of them, but increased the torque to 100ft/lb. So after decades of consumer complaints it appears that they finally came to their senses in December last year.

The studs are good, the tech advice from the manufacturer, not so good.
 

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ARP originally made studs that did not go far enough into the block and they were ripping out. Due to consumer complaints, they increased the length of them, but increased the torque to 100ft/lb. So after decades of consumer complaints it appears that they finally came to their senses in December last year.

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To anyone considering studs, please be aware that this is incorrect information. The third or fourth party information this poster is repeating is in reference to the Buick studs that many people attempted to use on the Rover engine. As many know, the Rover engine was purchased from Buick many years ago. It shares many attributes with the Buick but there are many differences. ARP made studs for both engines and cataloged them under different numbers. However, the Buick stud was shorter. The Buick studs were somewhat less expensive and some tried to use them in the Rover engine. These people experienced failures due to the lack of proper thread engagement depth. At no time has ARP changed the length of the studs in the Rover kit.

Additionally, many of the failures related to the Rover studs were caused by incorrect installation. The original head bolt was cut for a standard head bolt using a taper tap. When studs, which are longer, were screwed to the bottom of this bore, it caused binding in the form of the stud forcing the bore to expand due to the tapering nature of the last few threads. Several of the bolt holes are very close to the edge of the block which adds to the susceptibility for cracking. The correct procedure is to fully cut the bottom threads with a proper bottoming tap. This allows full engagement without binding.

The spec sheet on any individual part cannot turn a neophyte into an experienced, competent engine builder.
 

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To anyone considering studs, please be aware that this is incorrect information. The third or fourth party information this poster is repeating is in reference to the Buick studs that many people attempted to use on the Rover engine. As many know, the Rover engine was purchased from Buick many years ago. It shares many attributes with the Buick but there are many differences. ARP made studs for both engines and cataloged them under different numbers. However, the Buick stud was shorter. The Buick studs were somewhat less expensive and some tried to use them in the Rover engine. These people experienced failures due to the lack of proper thread engagement depth. At no time has ARP changed the length of the studs in the Rover kit.

Additionally, many of the failures related to the Rover studs were caused by incorrect installation. The original head bolt was cut for a standard head bolt using a taper tap. When studs, which are longer, were screwed to the bottom of this bore, it caused binding in the form of the stud forcing the bore to expand due to the tapering nature of the last few threads. Several of the bolt holes are very close to the edge of the block which adds to the susceptibility for cracking. The correct procedure is to fully cut the bottom threads with a proper bottoming tap. This allows full engagement without binding.

The spec sheet on any individual part cannot turn a neophyte into an experienced, competent engine builder.
You are so full of it.

Originally ARP only made studs for the Buick motor, which they listed as being suitable for the Rover V8 as well. They did not make ones specifically for the Rover V8. The buick ones were the shorter ones I was talking about. After they were continually ripped out of the rover blocks, they then increased the length and referenced them as studs for the Rover V8. The longer studs were no longer suitable for a buick block.

Most people are not like you and use things because they are cheaper. The Buick studs were actually more expensive than the later introduced ones. The Buick Kit had 26 studs compared to 20 in the later rover kit so they were around 30% more expensive.

Up to December 2016, ARP had the torque for the Rover studs listed at 100ft/lb. The old Buick studs were set at around 75 ft/lb.

Rover did not use taper head bolts. I have many of them here.

Do you actually ever do any research or do you just post whatever comes into your head. I do not know how you come up with this stuff
 
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