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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys:

As my title states, I'm about to spend a considerable amount of (saved) money on repairs and/or maintenance items on my 2001 DII amount to about $1,700 worth. That amount may not seem like much to some of you all, but as a college students, it's a pretty good piece of change.

Again, this is money I've saved and as far as operating costs, I'm well able to afford this vehicle. I'm seriously budget-minded. I could drive something less costly but I have a particular attachment to my truck.

Question: Based on my list below, do you see anything I should he aware of before dropping this serious dough on my Disco? I would very much *hate* to throw good money after bad, so this thread posting is part of my due diligence, if you will.

Repairs: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hyt7dy00rsvxroq/lr-repairs.pdf

Thanks guys for your help as always!
 

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If you want some feed back, put you list on line cause you link can not be opened
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you want some feed back, put you list on line cause you link can not be opened
I did not even notice that. Thanks for the heads up, Disco Mike.

Here is my list (printed below):
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Product Resolution Price
STI (Replacement) Ignition Wires Current wires "leak" voltage; underperform 70
E3 (Replacement) Spark Plugs Current ones need to be replaced; running rich? 48
Serpentine Belt Replaced w/ tune up servicing 43
Valve Cover Gasket Kit Replaced w/ tune up servicing 30
Gasket Upper - Lowe Intk. Manifold Replaced w/ tune up servicing 18
Shuttle Valve Switch with Seal U/G. To repair the 3-Amigos issue (brake fluid leak) 140
Rebuilt front driveshaft Needs greasable u-joints; prevent t/m damage. 150
Drag Link Complete with F&R Ball Jts. Ball joints are worn. Easier to replace entire setup. 170
Brake Pads - FRONT Current brake pads are worn, faded, using brake fluid 74
Brake Pads - REAR Current brake pads are worn, faded, using brake fluid 53
RT Lamp Assembly Current assembly is cracked. Floods. 45
Bulb Holder (Single) New seat for bulb. Old one is corroded. 5
Steering Damper Keep steering in control. Old unit is worn out. 90
Wiper Arm Old arm has been damaged and "rigged" to function 45
Rear Wiper Blade Old one is worn out. 10
Boot 4-Wheel Drive Selector Old one is damaged, unsightly. 45
Rear Bumper End Cap Old one is damaged, unsightly. 65
Factory Air Filter Old one is damaged and incorrect brand. 22
Airbox Top and Clips Old one is damaged and has poor seal for induction. 30
Thermostat To replace aging, less-effective installed one. 48
Window Regulator Current regular is damaged; prevents window oprtn. 85
TOTAL $1,286.00

MISCELLANEOUS
Headlamp Washer (2) To plug into holes in front bumper 48
Bumper and Trim Kit To help correct fading trim (bumpers and fender flares) 14
Door Panel Stud Retainer Replacements for broken retainers from panel removal 11
Panel Popper (self-explanatory) 24
Expansion Tank Cap Disco Mike's recommendation for major service 8
Blanking Washer Jet Hole in Bumper (2) To fill in holes in bumper from removed washers 11
Blanking Plug Wiper Hole in Plenum (2) To fill in hole near windshield 30
DOT 4 Brake Fluid (3) For flushing brakes from ABS and brake replacement 15
WaterWetter or Purple Ice Additive for coolant 15
Seafoam Motor Treatment Additive for motor via fuel 12
Shell Rotella T6 Oil (2 Gallons) Recommended oil for future changes 60
Oil Filter Oil change 15
Otr. fluids, additives needed for maj. srvc. 140
TOTAL $403.00


MECHANICAL SERVICES
Install rebuilt driveshaft
Change wires
Change spark plugs
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace manifold gasket
Tighten valve cover screws (oil leakage)
Flush brakes
Change transmission fluid (2x)
Install new brake pads
Turn rotors (if necessary)
Brake flush
"Gunk" engine flush
Change oil
Flush coolant; Add; Add WaterWetter

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So, why aren't you doing the work, that is all pretty easy works and would be a lot less then what you are being quoted.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, why aren't you doing the work, that is all pretty easy works and would be a lot less then what you are being quoted.
I put this list together a couple of weeks ago. Since then I've just been reviewing over and over and over again along with reading the forum and such.

I have decided that I can shave off $300 from parts of stuff I don't really need right now like some of the cosmetic things.

The only mechanical things I *think* I would have trouble with is replacing the plugs and wires (since it requires uninstalling some components and replacing that drag link. Do you think I can swap out the driveshaft myself?
 

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I put this list together a couple of weeks ago. Since then I've just been reviewing over and over and over again along with reading the forum and such.

I have decided that I can shave off $300 from parts of stuff I don't really need right now like some of the cosmetic things.

The only mechanical things I *think* I would have trouble with is replacing the plugs and wires (since it requires uninstalling some components and replacing that drag link. Do you think I can swap out the driveshaft myself?
Ultimately it comes down to how willing you are to do it. I never fear or dislike working on my truck, that is not to say that it can't be incredibly frustrating once you start.
 

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If you want help with this, I would be glad to help you with your list.
 

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1. Have you priced for labor? The costs in your list seem to reflect only part costs. Budget an additional $600-$800 to have your mechanic (MECH?) do the work.

2. I'm certain that Paul Grant has the vast majority of cosmetic (wipers, lights, bumper cap, etc.) parts that you need at a fraction of the cost that Atlantic British sells them. Shoot him an e-mail with your list and see if he can't get you something for cheaper.

3. Do the work yourself. The only thing on there that is out of the realm of the home mechanic is the ball joint removal, and even that's pretty easy - you just need some specialized presses and tools, the majority of which can be rented (for free) at your local auto parts store.

4. You can't turn LR rotors - they're too thin to begin with. You're better off buying a set of rotors and pads new. Don't get anything else than the ceramic pads, unless you love brake dust and sub-par performance. Brakes are very easy to change yourself - the only specialty tool you need is a 12-pt 1" socket to remove the front caliper brackets. Budget another $200-$250 for rotors.

5. Don't flush your engine. An engine flush is a very caustic procedure that can cause seals to degrade thereby leading to additional oil leaks. Furthermore they can break up sludge and carbon buildup that could destroy your oil pump and subsequently your engine.

6. Don't use E3 Spark plugs. They're overhyped. A spark plug is a spark plug and it's one of those technologies that aren't able to be improved upon. All it does is light your fuel mixture on fire - it's not terribly high-tech. Any perceived improvement in power or MPG is likely due to the fact that the plugs that were there originally were worn out. LR's came spec'd from the factory with Champion Platinum plugs and it's what I used. They're cheap and run rock solid. Champion plugs + STI wires are really the way to go on these trucks.

7. Think about how "budged minded" you are. Dropping $2200 in (primarly cosmetic) repairs on a car that's worth $3500 on a good day is the definition of a sunk cost. Your primary goals right now should be getting the car mechanically sound and worrying about looks later. Sure the $500 you spend on trim and wipers will look good, but 3 months down the road when your radiator goes it would be nice to have that money back. This means plugs/wires, an oil change, a transmission fluid change (only once is fine), a coolant flush, rebuilding the ABS pump and getting on your way. Ball joints and brake pads might be able to wait depending on their condition. The additional cosmetic stuff you can buy piece-by-piece and avoid dropping so much money right up front.
 

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I tend to really disagree about the Spark Plugs. My e3's are noticeably better than my champions, they feel better, but I can't speak to the quality of the product outside of what I noted to be increased low end torque...
 

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Plugs and wires can be done without removing the upper intake, unless you have SAI (unlikely for a 2001). Search here for others' guidance.

You'll need to lay a blanket, sleeping bag or sleeping pad on top of the engine and be prepared to be facedown on top of it and achieve an intimacy and a oneness with it like most of us achieve only rarely in life, especially with an inanimate object. Just be sure to disconnect the brake servo vac pipe and the breather connection from the passenger side of the upper manifold so that you don't break them when lying on them. Ask me how I know. To remove the brake servo vac pipe press IN on the red collar while pulling the pipe OUT.

Good luck.
 

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Be sure to use the PEL500110 thermostat.

Kingsborne wires are a lot cheaper, ~$35, and very good quality. I've been using them for about 30 years. I tried a few other brands and came back to them.

$48 seems like way too much for spark plugs considering the even "expensive" ones are often on sale for $2.

Steering damper is only for absorbing shocks when only one wheel hits something. If you have loose steering fix the problem, don't mask it with a new damper. Once it's fixed then fit a new damper if yours is actually worn out.

x2 on not spending much on cosmetics if you're on a budget, unless you're trying to pick up shallow girls. Focus on the mechanicals.

Use a good oil filter like Wix 51515, also sold as NAPA Gold 1515, about $5, or a Baldwin B2 for a little more.

Do you have a grease gun? Greasable u-joints need to be greased every 3 months or 3,000 miles under normal conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks everyone for replying. I spent the last few days reevaluating my list of things and slashed about $500 in non-essentials, especially after talking to Disco Mike and getting some inventory from Paul Grant. Just spent the last few hours ordering parts totaling about $700. Not bad, I think.

I'm going to do the mechanical work myself. I don't mind getting my hands (or elastic gloves) dirty. I'm doing the brake job, tune up (wires, plugs), SVS replacement and fix, and some small things for the truck to pass inspection.
 
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