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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does anyone know what this might be. One person said that my brakes just might need to be blead. if anyone has any ideas or had this problem any help would be useful

2000 Disco II
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well i pumped the brakes a few times and all and everything seems to be fine now, the light went out.
 

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keep an eye on it, and take note of the weather when it comes on. I had a senor with a crack in it that became a problem when ever it got wet.
 

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It will come back on. Try driving in reverse for ten feet. I had a bad sensor that came on everytime I did that.

Is your rig under warranty? If so, use it. Those sensor arent cheap.
 

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mine has hill decent,traction,abs lights all on yellow, mine when i stop hard in grass tha driver side front wheel is the only wheel to slide, i think it is that speed sensor, $212.00 from land rover, or $169.00 from atlantic british, should odre next week will let yall know if works.
 

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ABS Warning Light

Don't try and guess what caused the ABS and T/C light to come on, it can be many things all of which can only be diag. by a scanner. This can happen when your brakes run hot and fade, dirty brake fluid, bad sensors, bad connections up to a bad modulator assembly.
How long has it been since you had your brake fluid changed?? Good place to start, fast and cheap and will clean out stuck valves in the control unit.
Mike J.
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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No code no way to diagnose.

THe abs system will throw a code and then it can be diaged.

Is it sporadic coming on or does it come on all the time and stay on.
 

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MEEKROL said:
mine has hill decent,traction,abs lights all on yellow, mine when i stop hard in grass tha driver side front wheel is the only wheel to slide, i think it is that speed sensor, $212.00 from land rover, or $169.00 from atlantic british, should odre next week will let yall know if works.
HDC, Traction and ABS all came on for me again (2001 Disco). This is the second time in 7K miles. The first time I simply removed the ignition key and restarted the Vehicle and it cleared up. This time it seems as if it does not want to "fix itself". I will change Brake fluid tomorrow to see if that has any effect.
MEEKROL you never did come back with a post to say what the problem was.....
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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flywheel it wont have any effect. you need the code to have it properly diagnosed.

The code gives you a guide to start diagnosis.

Its like trying to get somewhere on a train.

you need to know what track the train is going to be on to get to the destination.
 

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ABS Light

ABS, T/C and Hill Desent can all come on because of either a bad sensor, brake pad chatter when over heated, burned brake fluid or simply because you nailed them hard a couple of times and the sensors picked up too much wheel sliding.
When was the last time you changed your brake fluid, this can be the number killer of the ABS unit??
Mike J.
 

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beezel said:
Its like trying to get somewhere on a train.

you need to know what track the train is going to be on to get to the destination.
Thanks for that data Beezel. I may have to break down and take it to the Dealer then if all else fails. : :complain:



discomike said:
ABS, T/C and Hill Desent can all come on because of either a bad sensor, brake pad chatter when over heated, burned brake fluid or simply because you nailed them hard a couple of times and the sensors picked up too much wheel sliding.
When was the last time you changed your brake fluid, this can be the number killer of the ABS unit??
Mike J.
My current milage is 59K Mike. The 30K service was done......but I am not certain if the Brake fluid was changed at that time. In any event I will change the fluid tomorrow as it was my intention to have had it changed 2K miles back. Just that the apparatus I purchased to do the "one man" brake job was not fitting over the top of the brake reservoir. I will have to do a traditional brake bleed I suppose. This may be a little backwards, because I am also ordering the Ferrodo brake kit from Atlantic British...so I suppose I will do another brake bleeding whenever I install the new rotors and pads.
Thanks again Mike.
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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If it went off when you turned the key its possible it could be the shuttlevalve.

basically go to all the grounds in the front by the air box in the front and remove the nuts and clean the stud and wire and then tighten it back up. There are two others on the passenger side by the fuse block. Then you can go to the driverside kick panel inside the vehicle and remove the panel and there is one more ground you can clean. If it goes off and stays off then you know its cured. Basically the shuttlevalve gets a bad ground sometimes. ANyway if it doesnt get it diaged and go from there.
 

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beezel said:
If it went off when you turned the key its possible it could be the shuttlevalve.

basically go to all the grounds in the front by the air box in the front and remove the nuts and clean the stud and wire and then tighten it back up. There are two others on the passenger side by the fuse block. Then you can go to the driverside kick panel inside the vehicle and remove the panel and there is one more ground you can clean. If it goes off and stays off then you know its cured. Basically the shuttlevalve gets a bad ground sometimes. ANyway if it doesnt get it diaged and go from there.
Roger that Beezel....we were posting almost simultaenously. :)
A slight correction to my prior post..the last service was at 45K.
Thanks again Beezel. I will check those ground connections at first chance.
 

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ABS/TC/HDC Amber Lights

And I thought I was the only one with this problem, boy did Land Rover screw up or what with the ABS Modulators? I've been given all of the excuses any land rover dealership can give you and they came to one conclusion the ABS Modulator has to be replaced, it's not your OEM Brake Pads and Roters, it's not your NON-OEM Brake Pads & Roters, it's not your braking hard or soft, it's not your brake fluid. This is what the Service Advisor told me verbatim. "Unfortunately you 4 wheel more than anyone I know that puts a pressure on the ABS Modulator" I've been having this problem for a few months now, and guess what I can't go offroading, I'm not a happy camper now.
 

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I disagree with your service writer.
Rovers have been known for years to throw ABD, T/C and or ABS lights because of:
Dirty fluid, aftermarket rotors and or pads, over heat the brakes, vibrations shaking the wheel sensors out of adjustment, dirt or mud and many more reasons.
The only way to tell for sure is to have some hook up a Text Book to your truck and read the brake codes.
Good luck,
Mike J.
 

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I somehow don't get it. To wheel or not to wheel. OEM or Aftermarket. You can name all the reasons your service person gave you, but IMHO the whole system (at least on the Disco II) is inferior if it's been known to throw error codes like these. C'mon we all love our Rovers, but when LR gives us all this BS about this and that causes the sensor to send an error, what's next don't wheel during a full moon. No offense to anyone who believes what causes this issue because that's the information being disseminated by LR dealerships. But don't you think enough is enough. I've seen so many posts in different forums about the dreaded trio of lights and quite frankly, I don't think they know what the causes are but are quick to pass the blame on the consumer. I say this is ridiculuous.

Let me tell you what a non functioning TC does based on my recent experience. Mind you I have a stock '00 Disco w/o lockers or CDL and a good set of mudders (not that it mattered). Last weekend we went to Anza Borrego to campout but we had to ascend this three level rock garden at like an almost 45 deg angle. I believe the trail is rated somewhere between 4-6. Everyone makes it through, I made it through the first level, then the lights came on during the middle of the second level. What happens next is a nightmare. I tried to keep my momentum but somehow I get stuck when one wheel loses traction. All the power is transferred to that one wheel and the rest are stationary. Needless to say whenever this happens I had to be strapped or winched up to complete the trail. You might say that's the way traction control works. correct me if I'm wrong, but somehow I was under the impression that TC was suppose to transfer "most" of the power to the slipping wheel but somehow I don't recall that the other three will meanwhile remain stationary. Anyhow, enough about my experience.

Nettechy and I here belong to the same rover club and were thinking of starting a petition to stir things up at LRNA. So far my research takes me back to two recall campaigns related to this issue that you can find on the NHTSA site. Check it out you've got nothing to lose and everything to gain. The two recall campaign related to this issue are campaign numbers 02V022000 and 04V005000. Enter them one at a time and see the details for yourself. Had to put in my $0.02

NHTSA
 

· Green Hornet
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ABS Modulator

Mike J. you are entitled to your opinion. I have a 2003 Disco S, I have 54000 miles on my Rig and it's always been serviced at the dealership, I have OEM parts, I did everything Land Rover Service Department asked me. I've talked to a lot of Land Rover owners and Land Rover Mechanics they all tell me the same thing ABS Mod has to be replaced, it's a faulty system designed by WABCO, LRNA didn't count on so many people to go offroading with their Disco's they targeted their advertising to Soccer Moms and guess what more and more people are offroading and more and more people are experiencing the ABS christmass light. I'm fraustrated, I don't like to be taken for a fool, I've spent a lot of money on my Rover and I want it to perform like a Land Rover.
 

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Nettechy,
I also belong to SCLR and other then a bout of medical problems I have been having over the last year, I have gone on trails that most of the club members won't. Yes, I have all the toys, gears, lockers CDL, HD axles and all the other bells and whistles. I have thrown the lights 3 times in 3 years.
I have now set my truck up so I can shut off the ABS when not wanted, and the truck can't be stopped.
Unfortunately all the quote SUV's with a traction control, which included nealry all of them, works off the ABS, and like most they are too sensitive to hard, prolonged wheel slippage.
It's the nature of the beast and yes we would be better without it.
By the way, I have been a service writer and or manager for nealry 20 years and have alot of experienced this problem with most of the manufactures.
Mike J.
 
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