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Discussion Starter #1
So the short version - I have confirmed squirrel chewing damage to my Rover. So far, I have shot three squirrels (it wasn't a waste, we ate them), spent three hours soldering in new wires in the wiring harness that comes up the front right shock tower to the under the hood fuse block, replaced the lower radiator hose due to a chew-induced leak and repaired two wires at one of the connectors at the fuse box. I could specifically ID the wires if needed. It's all separate instances so it's not like there is a shock and awe attack on the truck. It's just a subtle attack. As I type this, there is a 8 week old straight up alley cat in a crate in my office waiting to get over her surgery from yesterday so she can take care of business in the yard for me. :)

More importantly, the truck has started not wanting to idle when cold. If I feather the throttle to warm it up, all is well. However, the tach quit working too. I suspected it was the alternator - it had a little noise in the bearing so I had it rebuilt. Also replaced the battery. Still no tach. :mad: I have looked all over for more wire damage but no luck yet. Here are the codes I read this morning at the box store.

P1884
P1551
P0327
P0102

I have read up on these on the forum but wanted to bounce it off of everyone for the wisdom of the crowd. Also..The CPS is only a couple years old and <20k miles on it but maybe it's bad again?

Another lingering issue, the ABS codes are unrelated as they showed up after I did the shocks and coils so I suspect I may have a legit bad FR sensor. Those codes are
Logged Faults:
044:Front Right sensor output low
081:Brake light relay short to supply
Front Right Sensor Bad Output
064:Front Right sensor electric fail

(from the ABS Tool as you can see) If you think it isn't the FR sensor, please advise otherwise.

As always....thanks...

Micah
 

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I doubt you have any CPS issue cause your engine is starting. Your left knock sensor can sure be screwing up your timing and a new MAF will correct the start issue, assuming the wires are fine. As for the ABS, yes replace it, might want to buy a good guaranteed used on so you can get the short wire not the reall long wire that has be be soldered to the Slabs.
Paul grand should have a goo cheap one, number below.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What's the life expectancy of the MAF? I just replaced it 15k ago.... hmmmfff... just how it goes I guess. I haven't really dug around and checked the wiring on that area. I will check that as well before I head out to buy a MAF. I have swamped the airbox in the past so I may have cut the lifespan somewhat... :eek:
As I watched the water "wall" I realized the timing was off and I was about to take on some water and it did....right into the airbox intake....

I will give Paul a call on the sensor after the weekend.... Thanks!

Micah
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok....so I am sitting here thinking about the issue.... engine management....what is all in the engine management? I looked at Mike's suggestions and began thinking about it all. It's 11:30p and I couldn't stand it anymore so I grabbed the flashlight and went to give it all a visual again....I checked the knock sensor and the wires are ok not that it may not be bad still...then I remembered the IACV....never checked that. See the picture below and that could be a problem. Now to fix it since I now know that's an issue.
 

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You either need to learn how to do a water crossing or start buying MAF sensors in bulk.
Do you even know how to test the MAF, the directions on in the Rave CD? Water will kill them every time.
As for the knock sensor, looking st it isn't going to tell you if it is OK, you need to test it, here again, use the Rave.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gee thanks Mike. :) I might just better make sure I am careful with the water since the MAF is a bit pricey to buying in bulk. When that happened, I took a dose in the air cleaner and the MAF looked dry and has never hiccup'd since then so maybe it is still ok.

I did repair the wire and all is well. Solder, heatshrink and electrical taped. Cleared the codes and it idles fine and the tach works now. Now I think I will go and dig through the schematics and see where the issue would have caused that too.

Which section of Rave is the sensor test info? I know there is a section that shows all the connectors and locations. It also lists each sensor and pin outs but I don't recall the test method in there anywhere. I am not at my pc but just don't remember.

Thanks for talking through this with me everyone!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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V-8 Engine Management Repair, I believe.
Al, any water in the air filter box will usually kill the MAF. Some have had luck using MAF cleaner and following the directions.
 
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