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LANJ66
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Hey guys FYI....
*** the ORANGE plug, located in between the expansion tank and the fuse box, must be nice clean and dry, if is wet will get corrosion, and three amigos will come to stay, showing rear hubs sensors codes and more, so keep this plug greased with dielectric grease to keep water out of it ..
BEEN THERE DONE THAT
 

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The link for the repair is down. Does anyone have a copy saved somewhere?
 

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Hi folks. Just bought my first Disco II and I am really excited about it, she's a beaut Clark! I researched it ahead of time and when I went to see it, she had the 3A's. Not a big deal, as I am pretty handy with the mechanical upkeep of vehicles. I was wondering though, the url link is dead so does anybody have a copy or different address for the super write up that everybody used to fix it? It sure would be handy to not have to comb the internet for another. Thanks in advance. ~Ryan
 

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here is a link to the webpage with the info needed for the fix.

most of the pictures are stil there. here is the archived link...

ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.

Hope this helps some of you out.

:)
 

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Great information!
I have an abs light and the brake light on all the time. My friend tried to read the fault codes with his scan tool but it says that it is unable to connect to my ECU. It works fine on his three Discovery 2s.
someone suggested that this failure to connect is related to an earth fault but there are too many to check and i dont know where they all are.
As it turns out the single wire connected to the abs unit is the one that drives the light on the dash so I just unplugged it.
I have no ABS or HD but i dont have an annoying dash light either.
 

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Drives like an old man
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Reviving this old thread because a question arose. Mentioned above is the orange connector in between the expansion tank and fuse box. On my vehicle, there is nothing connected to this plug. What would normally go there? Likely some option I don't have, like air suspension, ACE or heated windshield, I'm guessing.
 

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As the man who mentioned the "orange plug" said that neglecting it can cause 3 amigos with rear sensor codes i presume he meant GREY plug C0392/0378 cos that's the only one on the rear sensor's circuit and it's NEAR the ORANGE plug C0377/0391 which is involved in the SLS and ACE management as you well presumed, the orange C0377 plug has nothing to do with ABS, i know that from my own experience too cos the grey plug used to suffer from oil ingress by calpilary action through the wires from the injector loom on Td5s and the oil acts as insulator in the pins causing rear sensor fault codes... i cropped just few relevant parts from the diagrams but if you check them all you'll see that @ian66 who brought that up was not spot on
 

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Drives like an old man
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Thanks, Fery. I appreciate the diagrams.
 

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Hi Your link is now invalid. It sends you to a site that is trying to install various programs (probably including Trojans). Is it possible to get your write up about the ABS fix put up as a Sticky?
 

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Does anyone have this info archived? The link installed a Mac virus. I have the 3 amigos intermittently, and when they are on the ABS doesn't work and neither do the blinkers (and maybe other things I'm not aware of!). Sounds like option B would be for me?
 

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Go back to post 125, no virus in those links
 
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The very original post with the link to the original write up ( so i can take it from the top, so to speak ) goes to like a toyota ad.

Can anyone point me to the original, conprehensive ABS 3 amigo write up?

Thx.
 

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Thanks guys.

Is there a way other than one of the Amigo scan tools to know for sure if I have one of the associated fault codes?:

• 1.6 - Shuttle valve switch (SVS) long term supervision failure
• 11.1 - One sticking SVS
• 11.4 - SVS electrical supervision failure

Also, if the Option B "bypass" method works I guess I don't really understand what the associated faults are actually doing to cause the 3 amigo lights, nor how the Option B bypass FIXES the issue (as opposed to just bypassing/ignoring it).

Open to learning more, here... Thx.
 

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Is there a way other than one of the Amigo scan tools...
If you decide to use the abs scan tool, let me know man. We can meet up with a laptop and knock it out in 5 min as far as downloading and then uploading to your laptop.
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovsry
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Hey gang! So just did option B this weekend and before hand I had all of this:

92451


And now I only have this:

92452


So the fix really does work!! Does anyone have any suggestions for me to get rid of that last code? According to real time data on the valve, it has a short to ground. I’ve got the ground wire going to the bolt next the AC line just like in the diagram, but can’t seem to get the code to go away. Any thoughts?
 

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Actually it seems that the "option B" didnt work at all cos that fault code about the SVS is the subject of the wiring mod and the only one which can be fixed with the mod, all the other codes should have been hystorical not current hence they went away and didnt come back and they have nothing to do at all with "option B" mod. There are cases when the wiring mod is not enough and new switch pack is needed too. I dont know what guide you used so tell me:
1. did you measure resistances of the switch pack as to get the 3, 2, 1 ohm readings ?
2. did you cut and prolonge the wires from the switces as to get rid of the connector or you spliced into the wiring of the SVS ?
3. did you cut the YG wire and joined the proper side whichis going into the harness not toward the modulator's connector?

i attach a complete guide, that black connector is not compulsory
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovsry
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Actually it seems that the "option B" didnt work at all cos that fault code about the SVS is the subject of the wiring mod and the only one which can be fixed with the mod, all the other codes should have been hystorical not current hence they went away and didnt come back and they have nothing to do at all with "option B" mod. There are cases when the wiring mod is not enough and new switch pack is needed too. I dont know what guide you used so tell me:
1. did you measure resistances of the switch pack as to get the 3, 2, 1 ohm readings ?
2. did you cut and prolonge the wires from the switces as to get rid of the connector or you spliced into the wiring of the SVS ?
3. did you cut the YG wire and joined the proper side whichis going into the harness not toward the modulator's connector?

i attach a complete guide, that black connector is not compulsory
Thanks for the attachment!

1. No
2. I spliced into the connector, instead of a cut it off completely
3. I spliced into the YG wire that was going into the plug that connects to the modulator.
 
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