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Not good, you have to cut all the wires toward the modulator cos the faulty interior circuit which is supossed to be bypassed by the wiring mod comes in parallel with it that's why the fault is still current. If the resistances are OK you dont need a new switch just do the mod correctly. I know there are some tutorials with spliced in wires but those are not 100% OK, they work in few cases but not in all like in your case, those who made them were lucky to have open circuit fault and they dont really know how that system works
 
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Not good, you have to cut all the wires toward the modulator cos the faulty interior circuit which is supossed to be bypassed by the wiring mod comes in parallel with it that's why the fault is still current. If the resistances are OK you dont need a new switch just do the mod correctly. I know there are some tutorials with spliced in wires but those are not 100% OK, they work in few cases but not in all like in your case, those who made them were lucky to have open circuit fault and they dont really know how that system works

Aaaaaaaah ok. So to use your attachment as an example, I need to cut the wires completely like this, not just splice into them:

92455
 

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Yes, and the yellow/green too and join the side which gos into the harness toward the ECU as the modulator side to be bypassed
 
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Yes, and the yellow/green too and join the side which gos into the harness toward the ECU as the modulator side to be bypassed
Ok, I see where I went wrong. I need to cut instead of splice in. Tomorrow I’ll take it apart and try again. I bet the bad ground code will go away once I wire it all right. I didn’t realize that the YG wire you can just cut so the wire doesn’t even run into the plug that plugs into the modulator anymore.
 

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Ok, I see where I went wrong. I need to cut instead of splice in. Tomorrow I’ll take it apart and try again. I bet the bad ground code will go away once I wire it all right. I didn’t realize that the YG wire you can just cut so the wire doesn’t even run into the plug that plugs into the modulator anymore.
What bad ground code? according to your first post all you've got is a SVS electrical failure code now, that's the only one which can be fixed with option B mod... did you drive it after you cleared the codes ? if not go for a drive and read codes after that
 
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What bad ground code? according to your first post all you've got is a SVS electrical failure code now, that's the only one which can be fixed with option B mod... did you drive it after you cleared the codes ? if not go for a drive and read codes after that

The electrical failure is the actual code, but when you read real time data on the shuttle valve itself it says there is a short to ground. No I have not driven it yet, seeing that after i clear the codes it comes back immediately just sitting in the garage.

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It worked!!!!! Omgsh I am dash light free, how amazing. For future readers, I went back in, clipped off the connecter as per the picture above, and also snipped the YG wire that goes into the plug that plugs into the modulator. So long story short, splicing won’t do it, you need to cut and run new wires otherwise you’ll get a bad ground and still get the light.
 

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Welcome.... and finally well done (y)
 
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