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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 3 Amigos reader about a year ago from RSWsolutions. used it to fix and narrow down my issues, replaced one sensor and did the option 2 shuttle valve fix. that damn amigos came back again. Somehow I lost my $200 scanner - Bummer!

I don 't want to spend another $200 for this little device. Can anyone suggest other options? will appreciate. I need to get the state inspection done soon.
Thanks
 

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I bought a 3 Amigos reader about a year ago from RSWsolutions. used it to fix and narrow down my issues, replaced one sensor and did the option 2 shuttle valve fix. that damn amigos came back again. Somehow I lost my $200 scanner - Bummer!

I don 't want to spend another $200 for this little device. Can anyone suggest other options? will appreciate. I need to get the state inspection done soon.
Thanks
I don't think there's anything out there remotely in that price range that will talk/re-set the abs.
 

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Yes; it works. Reads/Clears OBD II + SRS + ABS systems. Very easy to use. Make sure you update the software (free) and you can use it on as many makes as you like (which was great for my 2 SAABs).
Definitely money well spent.
 

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Yeah I can attest that the AL619 does work. It can read and clear OBD2 codes, SRS codes, and ABS codes. Not only does it give you code numbers, but it also has the code descriptions so you don't have to hunt for them on the forums. I've posted a few threads extolling it's virtues, but I guess it didn't stick. The registration/update process is a bit of a pain in the ass, so just search a bit online for the proper procedure.

It's not cheap - $160 via Amazon Prime, but it's over $40 cheaper than the ABS Amigo. While the Amigo ONLY reads ABS codes (and you need to hook it up to a computer to read them), the 619 reads OBD2/SRS/ABS codes for almost every production vehicle imaginable (yes, even Bugatti). Furthermore there is a large color screen that lists code descriptions (even manufacturer specific codes), has a "save" feature so you can print out your findings, and even does live data streams as well as O2 sensor testing. It's about as advanced a tool as a hobby mechanic needs.

And it's also pretty big. So you won't lose it.

Did you replace the shuttle valve seals when you did your fix? They leak internally and the caustic brake fluid eats away at the wiring, causing voltage blips that trigger the codes. You can get a set of the seals from Falconworks for $40 and it's very easy to change them.

Furthermore did you apply anti-squeal coating to the back of the pads? Sil-Glyde and CRC make good products. A loud squeal can trick the SLABS into thinking there is a sensor fault. This is actually what hard-set my Three Amigos and caused me to do my own seal/Option B fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. I did replaced the seals. I ordered another used shuttle valve. I think I will try to take time and fix the old one after replacing it. I am sick of this ABS nonsense. I will get an AL619 so I can also work on my BMW 528 and other vehicles. One device for all.

By the way anyone knows anything about the Transmission temp light? I disconnected both the sensor the darn light still on. I need to turn these lights off to pass this inspection then I can take my sweet time to fix them.
 

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Unplugging the sensor will trigger the light, so you can't get away with that. You'd have to replace it. This is of course assuming you've confirmed that your fluid, filter, and cooler are in good shape. Conversely, you could also wire in the appropriate resistor or potentiometer in an effort to trick the computer into thinking the sensor is working at the appropriate temp. Unfortunately I have no idea what resistance the unit operates at, so unless someone else does it may be a matter of trial and error.
 

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The trans temp light is almost always a bad sensor although I haven't seen one in ages. I do have the part in stock.

W/R/T code readers, if you want a good scanner, check with your Snap-On dealer for a used Solus Pro or better yet, Solus Ultra. Not a Textbook, Faultmate or Rovacom but one Helluva good diagnostic platform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The trans temp light is almost always a bad sensor although I haven't seen one in ages. I do have the part in stock.

W/R/T code readers, if you want a good scanner, check with your Snap-On dealer for a used Solus Pro or better yet, Solus Ultra. Not a Textbook, Faultmate or Rovacom but one Helluva good diagnostic platform.
PT, how would I know which sensor is bad? there are 2 of them, right? Some one posted that they are connected in parallel. If I disconnect will the light still be on? I have no problem getting parts but I want to make sure that is the problem. Thanks
 

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LOL-there is probably a lengthy discussion on this very site about the topic that I posted ages agao.

It's almost always the one on the side of the cooler behind the radiator.

If you reach in from through the wheelwell, it's much faster!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
PT, I read every possible post on this topic. But i have not seen anywhere how to test and identify. I will be happy to buy one from you but you'll have guaranty that's the one? How much is the sensor? I am going to replace the radiator, fan and belt in the nest 2 weeks. I need to have the truck inspected end of Feb.

Thanks for your help.
 

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PT, I read every possible post on this topic. But i have not seen anywhere how to test and identify. I will be happy to buy one from you but you'll have guaranty that's the one? How much is the sensor? I am going to replace the radiator, fan and belt in the nest 2 weeks. I need to have the truck inspected end of Feb.

Thanks for your help.
I can make no such guarantee, but I can teach you how to determine if it is the problem.

REmove the old sensor. Place in freezer, measure resistance.

Place in boiling water, measure resistance.
 
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