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Hi everyone -- I've been reading the forum for a longtime but finally purchased a 94 classic myself. It needs a LOT of work (I wanted a project) but this is my first one and I'm trying to figure out where to start. Any advice on what order you might tackle it in, plus things I should check or replace or watch out for would be greatly appreciated! I'm a real beginner.

Here are the issues I've identified:

-bit of seepage from one of the transmission cooler lines
-oil pan is leaking
-ball joints on the front axle leaking
-front and rear brakes down to about 4mm
-rough starting which I think is from a sticky injector because you can smell raw fuel out of the tailpipe when it's turning over. Based on previous forums I was thinking of using witchhunter service?
-also will need a complete cosmetic overhaul -- paint, new carpet, etc.
-most of the electrical is working, but not the horn or the sunroof

I'm sure there are others but that's what I could figure out. Thoughts on where to start? Anything else to watch out for given these issues? My father-in-law insists I start with replacing the spark plugs but he also works on Corvettes (and he's also my father-in-law so who knows if he's trying to kill me).

Thank you!
 

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I myself just snagged a 94 LWB.

recently completed work includes
Plugs
Wires
Cap/rotor

start with the things you know
Study the things you don’t in between
 
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I myself just snagged a 94 LWB.

recently completed work includes
Plugs
Wires
Cap/rotor

start with the things you know
Study the things you don’t in between
I agree start on the things you know you can do ... or basically the easy stuff... father in law is right ... I too would replace plugs wires cap and rotor
Then make sure it starts and runs
Then drive it...
But not to far
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree start on the things you know you can do ... or basically the easy stuff... father in law is right ... I too would replace plugs wires cap and rotor
Then make sure it starts and runs
Then drive it...
But not to far
Thanks -- that makes sense and good to know he wasn't steering wrong.
 

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I will say this...
reverendALC .... is one of the good guys... he would never steer you wrong....
 

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After those first things, an injector sounds likely for your raw fuel when starting problem, there are better injectors now that are more efficient (better mileage) that work as direct replacements, a bit of google or forum searching should get you a part number. A set of refurbished/flow-matched injectors should run you around $100.

Regarding the front swivel ball housings, replacing the seals is a bear of a job, but an interim stop gap can be replacing the oil, which is probably the original spec gear oil, with land rover's swivel housing grease (one tube per side roughly). It's much more viscous and will leak considerably less. The last thing you want it to run the CV's dry, they can lock up all of a sudden at speed and that's a bad day.

Leaks are just one of those British things, you stop one, it starts another! The transmission cooler lines tend to leak at the joint from rubber to hard line, unfortunately since it's a crimped fitting it's not really fixable unless you had them rebuilt by a hose shop (can be pricey). The lines can be found, but in the mean time if it's not a serious leak just keep an eye one it an top up when needed.

For the electrical, rovers are notorious for bad grounds and dirty connectors, my sunroof didn't work either and I traced it to a corroded ground. Clean up and voila, success. Welcome to the club!

 

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Discussion Starter #8
After those first things, an injector sounds likely for your raw fuel when starting problem, there are better injectors now that are more efficient (better mileage) that work as direct replacements, a bit of google or forum searching should get you a part number. A set of refurbished/flow-matched injectors should run you around $100.

Regarding the front swivel ball housings, replacing the seals is a bear of a job, but an interim stop gap can be replacing the oil, which is probably the original spec gear oil, with land rover's swivel housing grease (one tube per side roughly). It's much more viscous and will leak considerably less. The last thing you want it to run the CV's dry, they can lock up all of a sudden at speed and that's a bad day.

Leaks are just one of those British things, you stop one, it starts another! The transmission cooler lines tend to leak at the joint from rubber to hard line, unfortunately since it's a crimped fitting it's not really fixable unless you had them rebuilt by a hose shop (can be pricey). The lines can be found, but in the mean time if it's not a serious leak just keep an eye one it an top up when needed.

For the electrical, rovers are notorious for bad grounds and dirty connectors, my sunroof didn't work either and I traced it to a corroded ground. Clean up and voila, success. Welcome to the club!

Thank you. I will look into all of this. Lots to do but looking forward to it.
 

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Hi everyone -- I've been reading the forum for a longtime but finally purchased a 94 classic myself. It needs a LOT of work (I wanted a project) but this is my first one and I'm trying to figure out where to start. Any advice on what order you might tackle it in, plus things I should check or replace or watch out for would be greatly appreciated! I'm a real beginner.

Here are the issues I've identified:

-bit of seepage from one of the transmission cooler lines
-oil pan is leaking
-ball joints on the front axle leaking
-front and rear brakes down to about 4mm
-rough starting which I think is from a sticky injector because you can smell raw fuel out of the tailpipe when it's turning over. Based on previous forums I was thinking of using witchhunter service?
-also will need a complete cosmetic overhaul -- paint, new carpet, etc.
-most of the electrical is working, but not the horn or the sunroof

I'm sure there are others but that's what I could figure out. Thoughts on where to start? Anything else to watch out for given these issues? My father-in-law insists I start with replacing the spark plugs but he also works on Corvettes (and he's also my father-in-law so who knows if he's trying to kill me).

Thank you!
so you Have a 94 LWB..Well Like most New to you Land Rover Classic owners you are going to do all the wrong things first. Since your on a forum asking questions that are really quite basic in nature, I will assume you are not familiar with auto mechanic work. Not trying to be an A$$, really I am not.
Lets start with your list
Seepage from Transmission lines.....Fix it. They are not expensive. They are available. Transmissions are expensive.
Oil Pan leaking..... Well if you are sure thats the problem fix it. It's not hard.. Clean everything under the vehicle that has oil on it. Then see where it is coming from.
Leaking Ball joints.. Just fix the damn seals. It is not that hard of a job, and they wont leak again for 20 years, provided the ball is not rust pitted too bad. And use the "one shot" grease recommended. Its even called that. Be sure to turn the wheels so you can get the grease into the hole past the ball!
Brakes...Did you take the wheels off to get this measurement? change them out.
Rough Starting...You think you have a sticky injector?..Run a fuel system cleaner, But I suspect that nothing is wrong with the injector. No spark means no fuel being burned. Change the cap rotor and wires. The wires are probably old and cheap. I have had to replace the spark plug wires on my 94 LWB a couple of times in one year. Buy good magnacore's and Change the plugs too.
As for injectors in general. They are controlled by the computer. The fuel injectors time open is controlled. by mass Air sensor and cats. No new modern injector is going to give you any noticeable fuel mileage improvement, unless you have faulty injectors to begin with.
Paint.....carpet etc...do yourself a huge favor. Get it to run correctly first. Drive it so you know its okay before you try to repaint, re-carpet etc. No sense leaning over that new paint when your working on it.

since you didn't note the Mileage I will give you a run down of whats possibly ahead for you. Okay no one ever flushes the radiator and cooling system. So... be ready to change the heater core when it leaks out onto the passenger floor board. This will occur sooner or later. 150k miles would be a good guess if the vehicle was not maintained properly, sooner than later if you live in a climate that requires Air conditioning, as this will really tax an unmaintained cooling system. The heater core job on a 94 LWB takes 12 hours for me and I have a lot of practice..lol. Buy a manual, look for land rover tool box videos on youtube for great videos on many things. Most of the videos on that channel are for defenders but they share the same drive train.before you drive it make sure to check all the coolant hoses. the 2 hoses that are at the back of the engine that go to the heater core are a real pain, so people never change them until they leak or burst. Monitor your coolant level(in the expansion tank, this will be very important to detect and coolant loss you may acquire. Become familiar with that level cold. Head gasket failure on your engine is a thing that will happen just a question of when.The more poorly maintained the cooling system the more likely it is going to occur. this is also why you want it running correctly..A lean running engine runs hotter so get it running correctly before anything else..
The transmission will never have been flushed. I would do that after I am sure it has no other issues. It is not easy to do, but there are videos of that too, the cross member is the difficult part, and a lift makes it a lot easier. trust me you dont want that transmission to fail.
Under the passenger seat rear is a little black box that has a display on it. This will show any engine codes you may have. You can see the codes here JE Robison Service | Land Rover Troubleshooting: retrieving fault codes
You can see the codes and clear the codes easy enough.
When your looking at forums to find an answer to any questions or issues you have, do NOT take the first answers you find. look at other forums find repeated answers that address your particular problems. Google every question or problem look for answers on you tube. Many people will have answers unfortunately most of them will be incomplete or not accurate at all. I have completely taken apart every part of my 94 LWB. I listened to a lot of people some of them were very helpful. Most of them were not..
Good luck with the Range Rover listen to the father in law. All engines basically operate the same, Range Rover classics are particularly sensitive to ignition issues. cap rotor and spark plug wires, and the coolant temp sensor. (this tells the ECU how rich or lean to run the mix. The other thing that can cause you to have tough starting fuel smelling fun is the Fuel pressure regulator. I have changed my 3 times in 10 years. Okay well there ya go...Get it running properly then you can chase down the other gremlins...Good luck
 

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so you Have a 94 LWB..Well Like most New to you Land Rover Classic owners you are going to do all the wrong things first. Since your on a forum asking questions that are really quite basic in nature, I will assume you are not familiar with auto mechanic work. Not trying to be an A$$, really I am not.
Lets start with your list
Seepage from Transmission lines.....Fix it. They are not expensive. They are available. Transmissions are expensive.
Oil Pan leaking..... Well if you are sure thats the problem fix it. It's not hard.. Clean everything under the vehicle that has oil on it. Then see where it is coming from.
Leaking Ball joints.. Just fix the damn seals. It is not that hard of a job, and they wont leak again for 20 years, provided the ball is not rust pitted too bad. And use the "one shot" grease recommended. Its even called that. Be sure to turn the wheels so you can get the grease into the hole past the ball!
Brakes...Did you take the wheels off to get this measurement? change them out.
Rough Starting...You think you have a sticky injector?..Run a fuel system cleaner, But I suspect that nothing is wrong with the injector. No spark means no fuel being burned. Change the cap rotor and wires. The wires are probably old and cheap. I have had to replace the spark plug wires on my 94 LWB a couple of times in one year. Buy good magnacore's and Change the plugs too.
As for injectors in general. They are controlled by the computer. The fuel injectors time open is controlled. by mass Air sensor and cats. No new modern injector is going to give you any noticeable fuel mileage improvement, unless you have faulty injectors to begin with.
Paint.....carpet etc...do yourself a huge favor. Get it to run correctly first. Drive it so you know its okay before you try to repaint, re-carpet etc. No sense leaning over that new paint when your working on it.

since you didn't note the Mileage I will give you a run down of whats possibly ahead for you. Okay no one ever flushes the radiator and cooling system. So... be ready to change the heater core when it leaks out onto the passenger floor board. This will occur sooner or later. 150k miles would be a good guess if the vehicle was not maintained properly, sooner than later if you live in a climate that requires Air conditioning, as this will really tax an unmaintained cooling system. The heater core job on a 94 LWB takes 12 hours for me and I have a lot of practice..lol. Buy a manual, look for land rover tool box videos on youtube for great videos on many things. Most of the videos on that channel are for defenders but they share the same drive train.before you drive it make sure to check all the coolant hoses. the 2 hoses that are at the back of the engine that go to the heater core are a real pain, so people never change them until they leak or burst. Monitor your coolant level(in the expansion tank, this will be very important to detect and coolant loss you may acquire. Become familiar with that level cold. Head gasket failure on your engine is a thing that will happen just a question of when.The more poorly maintained the cooling system the more likely it is going to occur. this is also why you want it running correctly..A lean running engine runs hotter so get it running correctly before anything else..
The transmission will never have been flushed. I would do that after I am sure it has no other issues. It is not easy to do, but there are videos of that too, the cross member is the difficult part, and a lift makes it a lot easier. trust me you dont want that transmission to fail.
Under the passenger seat rear is a little black box that has a display on it. This will show any engine codes you may have. You can see the codes here JE Robison Service | Land Rover Troubleshooting: retrieving fault codes
You can see the codes and clear the codes easy enough.
When your looking at forums to find an answer to any questions or issues you have, do NOT take the first answers you find. look at other forums find repeated answers that address your particular problems. Google every question or problem look for answers on you tube. Many people will have answers unfortunately most of them will be incomplete or not accurate at all. I have completely taken apart every part of my 94 LWB. I listened to a lot of people some of them were very helpful. Most of them were not..
Good luck with the Range Rover listen to the father in law. All engines basically operate the same, Range Rover classics are particularly sensitive to ignition issues. cap rotor and spark plug wires, and the coolant temp sensor. (this tells the ECU how rich or lean to run the mix. The other thing that can cause you to have tough starting fuel smelling fun is the Fuel pressure regulator. I have changed my 3 times in 10 years. Okay well there ya go...Get it running properly then you can chase down the other gremlins...Good luck
You know ...sometimes a good poking
Is needed....
 

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I'm definitely a beginner and appreciate the advice. 110,000 miles. We'll see how it goes....
Well that's encouraging.. Still time to keep it from getting any worse..Thats about the time the fan clutch starts to wear, and the water pump..both of these items can cause overheating..They are easy to check,
Put those items on the coolant system check list..Radiator flush, hose inspection, Fan clutch, water pump.
Don't get me wrong I love my 94 RRC LWB but it took 10 years to make it a vehicle I would drive across the country. They require a large amount of maintenance. Did you find the Code box under the passenger seat? Let me know if you have any particular issues. I can try to help you out..
 

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Well that's encouraging.. Still time to keep it from getting any worse..Thats about the time the fan clutch starts to wear, and the water pump..both of these items can cause overheating..They are easy to check,
Put those items on the coolant system check list..Radiator flush, hose inspection, Fan clutch, water pump.
Don't get me wrong I love my 94 RRC LWB but it took 10 years to make it a vehicle I would drive across the country. They require a large amount of maintenance. Did you find the Code box under the passenger seat? Let me know if you have any particular issues. I can try to help you out..
Thanks. I really appreciate the help. I'll go through that checklist after I get the the other items taken care of. I don't know if I'll be able to trust it to drive down the block -- but I'll keep chipping away at it and we'll see.

I did find the code box -- and it's not working. The check engine light is on and no codes are displaying when the car is turned on so I assume that's an issue. Hoping something is unplugged somewhere and it doesn't need to be replaced -- but maybe it does. Any ideas?
 

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Do you have any software knowledge? If so there is a great alternative to the little code box. There is an open source GitHub repository called RoverGauge which was written to communicate with the early land rover diagnostic module. You can pull down and compile it yourself or there are pre-compiled executables for windows and ubuntu (the ubuntu one has some broken dependencies and requires more fiddling, the windows one is plug and play). There are usb-serial diagnostic cables made that will plug into the white diagnostics plug under the passenger seat and give you all kinds of real-time data in a pretty nice GUI; RPM, fuel map, water temp, fuel temp, MAF voltage, etc, with a full readout of trouble codes (all of them, not just the highest priority code, which is what the box under the seat shows if there is more than one).

Cable:


Repository:

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Do you have any software knowledge? If so there is a great alternative to the little code box. There is an open source GitHub repository called RoverGauge which was written to communicate with the early land rover diagnostic module. You can pull down and compile it yourself or there are pre-compiled executables for windows and ubuntu (the ubuntu one has some broken dependencies and requires more fiddling, the windows one is plug and play). There are usb-serial diagnostic cables made that will plug into the white diagnostics plug under the passenger seat and give you all kinds of real-time data in a pretty nice GUI; RPM, fuel map, water temp, fuel temp, MAF voltage, etc, with a full readout of trouble codes (all of them, not just the highest priority code, which is what the box under the seat shows if there is more than one).

Cable:


Repository:

Lance -- this is awesome -- thank you. I work in software and have some basic programming skills so this should be doable. Looks like the diagnostic tool is unavailable at the moment but I'll hunt one down.
 

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Thanks. I really appreciate the help. I'll go through that checklist after I get the the other items taken care of. I don't know if I'll be able to trust it to drive down the block -- but I'll keep chipping away at it and we'll see.

I did find the code box -- and it's not working. The check engine light is on and no codes are displaying when the car is turned on so I assume that's an issue. Hoping something is unplugged somewhere and it doesn't need to be replaced -- but maybe it does. Any ideas?
Check engine light or service engine light
?
 

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Lance -- this is awesome -- thank you. I work in software and have some basic programming skills so this should be doable. Looks like the diagnostic tool is unavailable at the moment but I'll hunt one down.
Great! There aren't many software nerds in the old rover world, so I'm glad to find someone else who can use the tool, it's been super helpful for me. Looks like there's another one available

 

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Great! There aren't many software nerds in the old rover world, so I'm glad to find someone else who can use the tool, it's been super helpful for me. Looks like there's another one available

Just bought it. Thanks for the heads up. Looking forward to using it once it arrives.
 
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