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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Rebuilt my engine with top-hat/flanged liners recently. I was able to break the camshaft in at 1500-2000 RPM for 25 minutes, no issues with coolant temperature (never went over 190*F) and great oil pressure (around 60-80psi cold at 2000 RPM) (GlowShift Gauges for both temp and oil pressure). I was able to drive it around the block, no transmission slipping noticed. New Bosch Platinum spark plugs, Kingsborne 8mm plug wires, NEW duralast gold battery, new starter, new coolant temp sensor, and new Bosch Crankshaft sensor.

When I start it, it will run anywhere from 5 seconds to 5 minutes or more. No rough idling, no overheating. I have been disconnecting the battery because my GlowShift oil pressure gauge will, with the key out of the ignition, keep turning itself on and then off, repeatedly, and that could drain the battery. The water temp gauge has no such issues and they are wired together. Both gauges also retain their selected LED color, dim when I turn on the headlights, and show accurate sensor readings.

I have checked the NEW battery and alternator and don't see any obvious issues as the battery has 12.58 V with the engine off and the alternator charges at 14.3 V. Battery connections are clean and tight. I pulled the following codes at various times, as I kept disconnecting the battery so the oil pressure gauge wouldn't be a parasitic draw on the battery. I also found the inertia switch, but don't know how to reset it.

I read the ignition coil and Idle Air Control Valve harness plugs are similar and can be mixed up - would it even start at all if these were switched?

Updated Codes:
P0340 --> Camshaft Sensor Error
P1884 --> PWM Signal Failure from Engine ECU
Engine Speed Input Signal Intermittent or Missing
P0560 --> Low System Voltage
P1536 --> AC Compressor Grounded?
P0102 --> MAF Sensor Malfunction
P0418 --> Secondary Air Injection Malfunction
What do you think of my next steps?

  • [*]Check fuel pressure with fuel pressure gauge taped to windshield. What should fuel pressure be with ignition on and then with motor running?

    [*]Clean Idle Air Control Valve with carb cleaner

    [*]Check grounds - How should I do this - I looked at the one on the rear driver's side head and it is well attached as is the one underneath the alternator coming from the battery.

    [*]Look for vacuum leaks with propane, but today it hasn't even started for more than 10 seconds, so I can't test it.

    [*]Reset inertia switch - how do I do this? I just pushed it down, but I don't think that is how it is done.

Thanks, I really appreciate you taking the time to read this.
 

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You would have a lot more codes if you switched those sensor wires.
Don't worry about the 1884, it will go away once the 340 is fixed or replaced. By the way, the can sensor can't kill the engine, just make it run bad.
For the inertia switch, just push the black rubber cap on top of the sensor, but here again, it won't cause your problem.
Do all the other thing you mentioned.
By the way, how many miles on the engine and has the CPS ever been replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You would have a lot more codes if you switched those sensor wires.
Don't worry about the 1884, it will go away once the 340 is fixed or replaced. By the way, the can sensor can't kill the engine, just make it run bad.
For the inertia switch, just push the black rubber cap on top of the sensor, but here again, it won't cause your problem.
Do all the other thing you mentioned.
By the way, how many miles on the engine and has the CPS ever been replaced?
I had already tried pushing the cap on the inertia button and there was no difference - I didn't realize it was that simple to reset.

The 0340 camshaft sensor code only showed up once and hasn't returned. I rebuilt the oil pump and used a new o-ring on the camshaft sensor - I saw no wire damage on the sensor. As you said, I had also read that an 0340 would cause rough running, but that isn't the issue - it just shuts off completely and there is no rough running. I can give it gas and take it up to 3-4,000 RPM and it will still shut off.

The Crank Position Sensor is a brand new Bosch part.

The engine had 122,000 miles before being rebuilt. It has 2-3 miles since being rebuilt.

Do these symptoms sound more like a bad Idle Air Control Valve, MAF, fuel pressure issue, or bad ground?

I don't think it is the coil or spark as it starts up fine and ran for over 25 minutes during break-in without incident.
 

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check the spacers on the crank position sensor - then check them again, then try your old one etc etc. It doesnt sound like a ground fault or a misplaced plug fault, either a really bad vacuum leak since the first trip leaning it out more than can be compensated for or something wrong with the CPS, those CPS's are a real pain to get right and some dont work out of the box or fail in a short time.
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
check the spacers on the crank position sensor - then check them again, then try your old one etc etc. It doesnt sound like a ground fault or a misplaced plug fault, either a really bad vacuum leak since the first trip leaning it out more than can be compensated for or something wrong with the CPS, those CPS's are a real pain to get right and some dont work out of the box or fail in a short time.
cheers
Barri
Well, the CPS is new, but I had to fashion 2 spacers out of copper pipe. I lost one spacer and nut and then measured the size with a dial caliper to ensure it was the same as the stock spacer. I also cross-threaded the studs that hold the CPS sensor on as Ace Hardware sold me the wrong nut (1/4" instead of the appropriate metric thread) and I had to tap the hole to a larger thread and installed new studs as well.

Does anyone know where I can buy just the stock spacers then? I'll have to try that now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update:

-Cleaned Idle Air Control Valve with carb cleaner.

-Reset Inertia Switch again

-Ran Jumper Cable from Negative Battery Terminal to Engine

-Tested Voltage From Negative and Positive Battery Posts at 12.48V, Tested Voltage from Positive Battery Post to Engine - 12.48V. So it seems there is no ground issue?

-Verified alternator is charging at 14.11V with engine running and no load and 14.11V with headlights and stereo on - so voltage regulator is OK and alternator is OK.

-Got some new codes after it wouldn't start when cold, then after about 10 cranks and dies, it idled for about 10 minutes before turning off. Then when hot, it wouldn't idle, then after it cooled for about 15 minutes, it turned on again.

-I couldn't get to the shcraeder valve to check the fuel pressure - with SAI, it is near impossible to find. I know from the RAVE it is on the driver's side rear portion of the fuel rail, but I couldn't find it, less so reach it.

-New codes are:
P0560 --> System Voltage
P1536 --> I believe this is something with the AC compressor being grounded - how do I troubleshoot?

-Also observed that it honks once when I go to lock it and will no actually lock the doors, but will unlock them. The red security light is NOT blinking inside. I tried the unlock, lock 3 times sequence, but it still won't lock.

-Radiator fan stays on for a few seconds to a couple minutes after removing key from ignition (I'm pretty sure this is normal).

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but during initial start-up, a hose clamp wasn't tight enough and a hose slipped off, spewing coolant everywhere, including into the engine fuse box that was uncovered from pulling the fuel relay to turn over the engine as to prime the oil pump. I blew it out with compressed air, but just now began to hear a VERY FAINT constant, quick beeping (~1 beep per second) coming from the engine compartment fuse box. I think a relay could be bad.
 

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I think you may have it!
I checked the BMW specific code for P0560 (our models of rover have some of the BMW design systems - BMW bought them in 94 then sold them to ford in 2000) and it is system voltage but what that means is that the 5v system supply to the engine ecu is not constant!
the coolant may have got into the supply system for the ecu

When is the code detected?
The P0560 code is detected when the Engine Control Module (ECM) voltage out of range.
Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Slow engine start
- Low battery power
P0560 BMW Description

The battery supplies electricity to the Engine Control Module (ECM) even when the ignition switch is OFF. This electricity allows the ECM to store data such as Detected Trouble Code (DTC) history, freeze frame data, fuel trim values and other data. If the battery voltage falls below a minimum level, the ECM will conclude that there is a fault in the power supply circuit. The next time the engine starts, the ECM will turn on the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) and a DTC will be set.

try checking power to the ecu - its a12 to 13v supply to the transformer and then 5 to 6 v constant supply at the ecu, practically no amperage.
cheers
Barri
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update:

I removed the engine compartment fuse box and found coolant in some places still, even after I had blown it out with compressed air. I removed all fuses, fusible links, and relays. Cleaned everything with CRC QD Electronics cleaner, including all multi-plugs on the bottom of the fuse box. I cleaned blades of all the relays with cotton swabs as there was some white powdery build-up on several of the blades, not much, but enough for me to want to clean them off. Everything was then blown with compressed air.

I then made a test cable and checked the function of each relay in the engine compartment fuse box - all passed and clicked when exposed to 12 V across smaller blades. Then I would check for continuity on the larger blades with 12V still applied to the relay - again, ALL PASSED. I also checked continuity of ALL fuses and fusible links --> ALL PASSED.

Then I reinstalled everything after a coating of CRC Di-Electric Grease was applied to multi-plugs on the bottom of the fuse box. I also cleaned the AC Compressor plug and applied grease. NO DIFFERENCE.

I started the car and it again died immediately. I even got a NEW CODE. I am still having issues with a single honk when I got to lock the doors and the doors are not locking. Red alarm blinking light isn't on either. I am still hearing a faint beeping from the engine fuse box even when off.

P0102 --> MAF Sensor Malfunction.

So now it is off the to Engine ECM. How do I check the 12-13V supply to the transformer and the 5-6V supply to the ECM with my multimeter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just pulled the ECM and don't see any evidence of corrosion. Does anyone know how to test the 12-13V going to the ECM transformer and the 5-6V going into the ECM?

Some pictures from today:

Removed 2 plugs from top of engine compartment fuse box - see some leftover coolant -

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Bottom of fuse box multi-pligs, only saw green corrosion on 2 of them.



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Corrosion pics of the bottom of the engine fuse box



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Cleaning Supplies + Fuse Box out of car

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Relays removed, see the coolant?



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All fuses, fusible links, and tools (T25, T45, fuse puller)

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Corrosion on relay

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Relay cleaned up

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Testing Continuity of all relays, all of them passed with 12V applied and with multimeter



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All fuses back in box

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Di-electric grease on connectors

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Re-installed underhood

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Removing ECM - (2) 10mm nuts, large flathead screwdrive for trim panel, panel popper tool

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ECM Connections - I don't see any corrosion at all




Thanks for looking
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here are my testing results with the ECU/ECM out of the car.

Battery Voltage at Battery Posts - 12.29V

- Fuse 2 Underhood Engine Fuse Box --> 12.29V key off, 12.29V Key Position #2 --> Power to MAF

- Pin 7 of Connector 0634 --> 12.29V key off, 12.29V Key Position #2 --> Permanent 12V ECU Battery Supply

- Pin 1 of Connector 0634 --> 0V key off, 12.15V Key Position #2 --> Ignition Position #2 Signal Input to ECU

- Pin 8 of Connector 0634 --> 12.28V key off, 12.19V Key Position #2 --> Switched Positive Relay, doesn't appear switched

- Pin 4, 5, 6 of Connector 0634 --> 0V key off, 0V Key Position #2 --> Chassis, Fuel Injectors, and Power Stage Earths/Grounds

- Pin 7 of Connector 0636 --> 10.83V key off, 10.73V Key position #2 --> MAF 5V Supply -- Why is it 10V then???

- Pin 10 of Connector 0636 -> 0V key off, 0V key position #2 --> Throttle Position sensor 5V Supply --> Why is it 0V then?

- Pin 17 of Connector 0636 -> 0V key off, 0V key position #2 --> Camshaft Sensor Ground

- Pin 5 of Connector 0638 --> 0V key off, 0V key position #2 --> Ignition Coil Ground

Observations:
-Testing of 0634-1 tests OK as it has 0V when key off, 12V when key positition #2, so there is no confusion to the ECU about what the key is doing.

-Testing of 0634-4, 0634-5, and 0634-6 read 0V which is GOOD because these are chassis, fuel injector, and power stage grounds to the ECU.

-Testing of 0634-7 shows good permanent 12V supply to ECU when key is off AND in key position #2. I don't understand then why ECU is throwing code P0536 of low engine voltage below 2.55 V.

-Testing of 0636-7 is BAD MAF??? It is over 10V in both key off and key position #2 and should be only 5V supplied to the MAF. Is this logic sound?

-Testing of 0636-17 shows good ground for Camshaft Sensor (CMP).

-Testing of 0638-5 shows good ground for ignition coil.

-Fuse 2 has voltage when key off/out - is this normal.

-Fuses #7 and #8 in underhood fuse box have no voltage in key off or key position #2. These are 40 amp fuses and the fuse box lid has a picture of reading a manual. Nevermind, these are for the heated front windshield - each side of the windshield has a heating element with separate fuses.

After reading more of the RAVE, I am thinking P1536, relating to the AC compressor, could have been tripped by an open circuit of the relay #11 in the underhood fuse box because it was wet.

Also, the issue with the cooling fan turning on randomly and staying on after the key was out, could have been attributed to a wet connector #0570 (the grey plug in the underhood fuse box) or wet Relay #4.

In regards to the P0102 --> Low MAF signal, could this be due to me slamming the gas pedal when starting the car to see if it would die at high RPM? Was the MAF not reacting quick enough to my flooring it? BUT, I read in the RAVE that a bad MAF can create a stalling after starting issue. So how do I test the MAF? Is there a concern that the 5V supply to the ECU is showing up as 10.83V?

Again, thanks for reading this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE:

Just took it for a test drive and it started up fine, took it out of the garage, drove down the block about 1/2 mile and it died. Then I restarted and drove it back and parked it in the garage.

Got a new code - P0418 --> Secondary Air Injection Sensor A Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor. I hear a vacuum sound coming from the AIR pump and it stayed on for a few seconds after shutting off the car and putting key to OFF position.

Sounds like this operation of the SAI pump is normal for cold starts, but is the code indicating a bad solenoid, clogged filter, or loose rivets?

I also discovered the source of my faint beeping in the engine fuse box - Relay #10 for the ABS. I tested it again and it tested OK for continuity and closing when 12V applied across smaller terminals. I replaced it with another one and it still beeps. Now if I push down on the relays they start to click and close.

Still getting codes P0340, P0418, P0560, and P1536.
 

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P0340 Land Rover Camshaft Sensor Circuit Faulty or Signal Timing Different From Crankshaft Sensor Signal (Drive Cycle A)
P0418 Land Rover Secondary Air Injection System Relay A Control Circuit
P0560 Land Rover System Voltage
P1536 Land Rover Air conditioning compressor power stage faultDrive cycle A:Signal missing

I think you still have a problem in the fusebox. The MAF and TPS get their control voltage from the ecu, and the camshaft / crankshaft sensors could be reporting just fine but the ecu is causing them to be misinterpreted.
Any chance that coolant could have crept along the harness and into the ecu?
when the engine dies does the rev counter just die or does it slowly drop to zero?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
P0340 Land Rover Camshaft Sensor Circuit Faulty or Signal Timing Different From Crankshaft Sensor Signal (Drive Cycle A)
P0418 Land Rover Secondary Air Injection System Relay A Control Circuit
P0560 Land Rover System Voltage
P1536 Land Rover Air conditioning compressor power stage faultDrive cycle A:Signal missing

I think you still have a problem in the fusebox. The MAF and TPS get their control voltage from the ecu, and the camshaft / crankshaft sensors could be reporting just fine but the ecu is causing them to be misinterpreted.
Any chance that coolant could have crept along the harness and into the ecu?
when the engine dies does the rev counter just die or does it slowly drop to zero?
The ECU looked completely dry to me and free of corrosion. The rev counter just dies as soon as it shuts off. I too think it is something wrong with the fuse box and the relays test OK, but start clicking/activating/closing if I rock them a tiny bit or push down on them. At one point last night, the relays all just started opening and closing without me touching anything. The electric fan started acting up again as well - turning on when key was out. I went ahead and ordered a used fusebox, complete with fuses and relays, for $25 (shipping included). I'll continue to trouble shoot until then.

Last night I checked all the fuses of the passenger compartment fuse box and all PASSED. I was thinking that some water could have crept into the cabin if I had a leaky a-pillar, windshield, or weatherstripping while rinsing the coolant that sprayed everywhere. I'm going to remove it today and open it up to look for any corrosion on the circuit board.
 
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