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Discussion Starter #1
Where can one purchase an all flow thermostat for the Land Rover Discovery II ?

I need it for extremely hot conditions. Am going to Death Valley soon to wheel on the dry lake bed and the projected temperature will be 114-124 F.
 

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There is no such thermostat for the Disco 2 V8 engine.
Do a search for a 3-way thermostat housing for an older Jaguar 3.0L V6. They were a metal 2 piece unit constructed like our Disco's V8 thermostat but you could open it up and add a thermostat spring.

*EDIT*
found it... part # AJ813558... https://www.jaguar-shop.com/Thermostat-housing-V6
 

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In those temps I would do that thermostat housing with a 170 thermostat spring, change the oil to 20W50 and run Purple Ice with water and no anti freeze.
In the Caribbean summer it does not go over 92F so I use the 180 Thermostat and 15W40 oil. My temps don't go over 200 (thats with original rad, clutch and water pump) while standing in the heat for long moments.
I Will be changing to water and Purple ice only and no anti freeze since it never gets under 67F at night in the winter.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There is no such thermostat for the Disco 2 V8 engine.
Do a search for a 3-way thermostat housing for an older Jaguar 3.0L V6. They were a metal 2 piece unit constructed like our Disco's V8 thermostat but you could open it up and add a thermostat spring.

*EDIT*
found it... part # AJ813558... https://www.jaguar-shop.com/Thermostat-housing-V6
Thank you for providing that link. The exit tube doesn't look quite angled enough. The DII thermostats have a V.

if it works I can unscrew that nut and take out the spring... then I have an all flow stat ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In those temps I would do that thermostat housing with a 170 thermostat spring, change the oil to 20W50 and run Purple Ice with water and no anti freeze.
In the Caribbean summer it does not go over 92F so I use the 180 Thermostat and 15W40 oil. My temps don't go over 200 (thats with original rad, clutch and water pump) while standing in the heat for long moments.
I Will be changing to water and Purple ice only and no anti freeze since it never gets under 67F at night in the winter.
Dave

Where can you buy a 170 degree T stat for these cars? I have the Genuine 180 and Britpart 180 but have never heard of a 170 before .
 

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I have used a 170 thermostat from and older bmw 320i, it’s not shaped exactly the same, but will work with a little creative hose bending. I found that my fuel economy suffered about a 2mpg drop with the 170 though, since the engine apparently didn’t fully warm up. I’ve found that the best combo on my D2 is 180 thermostat with an “extreme duty” fan clutch. Temps stay under 200 even in ambient up to 105f, including long periods of idling with a/c on. Added bonus: the a/c blows colder at idle too!
 

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with temps being 114-125. you can't even feel the AC.
I off-road my LR3 in the desert in Cali It was a 7hr journey and it was about 114F, I could bearly feel the AC. No issues over heating in the LR3, There was a guy with a D1 and he was fine. As long as the cooling system and oil cooler work well. But I agree the 180F thermostat should be fine.
Dave
 

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I have a new radiator and a 180 thermostat and, in town, temps are fine and well controlled. It's at highway speeds 75+ that my temps become interesting. After a few miles of driving in near 100F temps at high speed, my temps settle at 215. That's not too hot, but it's not where I'd like it, either. I shot the thermo and various hoses with my laser thermometer and it showed nothing over about 190, so I'm beginning to doubt my temp sender (viewing on a Scangauge).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a new radiator and a 180 thermostat and, in town, temps are fine and well controlled. It's at highway speeds 75+ that my temps become interesting. After a few miles of driving in near 100F temps at high speed, my temps settle at 215. That's not too hot, but it's not where I'd like it, either. I shot the thermo and various hoses with my laser thermometer and it showed nothing over about 190, so I'm beginning to doubt my temp sender (viewing on a Scangauge).
I've wondered how accurate the temp sender in the vehicle is. Especially one that's 16-20 years old. I've also wondered if this should be replaced for more accurate readings. If anyone has replaced theirs after X number of years or miles.

215 is way too high. You should be in the 180's.

If you buy a larger 100% aluminum radiator and use distilled water with water wetter .. your temps will drop.
 

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215 is high, which is why I don't believe it. Nothing says it's that hot but the Scangauge reading the LR sensor. I don't know who makes a larger radiator for the DII; I've never seen one. I have the Nissens, which is highly rated and not some Chinesium (I didn't go cheap...this time). I can't use just distilled water; it gets cold here, too. Think I'll just put in a quality aftermarket water temp sensor and gauge and be done with it.
 

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Nobody has answered my question if the temp sensors on our Discos wear out. I was hoping that would help you out.
 

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215 is high, which is why I don't believe it. Nothing says it's that hot but the Scangauge reading the LR sensor. I don't know who makes a larger radiator for the DII; I've never seen one. I have the Nissens, which is highly rated and not some Chinesium (I didn't go cheap...this time). I can't use just distilled water; it gets cold here, too. Think I'll just put in a quality aftermarket water temp sensor and gauge and be done with it.

In order to get the lowest temperatures you need a 100% aluminum radiator. Your temps will drop 10-20 degrees. From what I've read you have 3 choices:

1) Ebay radiators. $400 and includes 2 fans if you want to go electric. These radiators are oversize and you need to cut the cover off to use the shroud. You can't use the cover because it's too big. They are the biggest radiators I've found online that will fit in the car. You cannot install them like a stock radiator though. I have to use thick nylon zip ties to keep it in place with a little stopper rod for stability. Unless the truck turns upside down I'm ok. The temps plummeted after I installed it down to 186. HOWEVER ... there is a BIG RISK THAT YOU WILL GET RIPPED OFF or that it will get damaged in shipping. You need to get it pressure tested before installing. If it arrives damaged from the China factory or in shipping (because they use very little packing materials to save money) they factory in China will play games with you emailing you back and forth until the "warranty" runs out. Basically using fine print to play games wait for the clock to run out and rip you off. So it's a risk you will get ripped off. After you post a bad review they will put 100 fake perfect reviews on top of it. You can see this on thier ebay pages. But if you get a good one they are the biggest in the market that I know about


2) Allisport UK makes a 100% aluminum radiator. However it's almost $1,200.00 including taxes and shipping.


3) Griffin radiators are made USA but they don't have a radiator for the DII and wanted something like 3-5 grand to make one.




Those are the only choices I've found.
 

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I will replace my factory temp sensor as soon as it gets here and I'll post my results. I'm not optimistic, but they're cheap from Rock. I don't think electric fans will move enough air, but I could be wrong about that. I did notice that, while driving to work (around 7 a.m.), while it's cool outside, my temps don't go beyond 184. At 6, when I head home and it's 96+ outside, my temps settle at or near 215. Sounds like the factory cooling system just can't keep up with New Mexico heat. So a bigger radiator sounds like the right way to go, but I don't trust China and there's NO WAY I'm paying $1200 for a radiator for a DII that's barely worth 1200! So I may simply be screwed. Wouldn't be the first time.
 

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I don't understand why the OP wants to eliminate the thermostat due to planning to operate in a high ambient temp environment. The thermostat has nothing to do with dealing with temps at the high end (unless it is stuck shut or doesn't open fully). Once the stat is open the variables affecting cooling system effectiveness are the radiator, water pump, fan(s) and fan clutch.
 

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I Will be changing to water and Purple ice only and no anti freeze since it never gets under 67F at night in the winter.
Dave, remember that antifreeze also raises the boiling point of the coolant (in addition to the system being pressurized), plus it has corrosion inhibitors that help extend the life of the radiator. I'd run 50/50 even in the Caribbean.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I will replace my factory temp sensor as soon as it gets here and I'll post my results. I'm not optimistic, but they're cheap from Rock. I don't think electric fans will move enough air, but I could be wrong about that. I did notice that, while driving to work (around 7 a.m.), while it's cool outside, my temps don't go beyond 184. At 6, when I head home and it's 96+ outside, my temps settle at or near 215. Sounds like the factory cooling system just can't keep up with New Mexico heat. So a bigger radiator sounds like the right way to go, but I don't trust China and there's NO WAY I'm paying $1200 for a radiator for a DII that's barely worth 1200! So I may simply be screwed. Wouldn't be the first time.

if you don't want to spend the $$$ on a Allisport (and I don't blame you they are way overpriced) the only other option I know of is E-Bay or Allibaba.

The Ebay rad is actually bigger than the Allisport and there is more aluminum used in it vs. the Allisport .... it only costs $350-400 .. it's the same company in China that operates as it's 10 different sellers online. There is also a seller in Australia importing in bulk from China with a slight markup as it ships from Australia .. but it's a China Radiator.. I would assume the Australia importer would perform quality control ops (pressure testing) prior to sale. This way they can eliminate unhappy retail customers and get credit from the exporter in China for defective units - who doesn't dare want to lose a wholesale account. They don't mind blatantly ripping off some guy on Ebay or Allibaba ... but these China factories take the wholesale side seriously... especially when they become regular export orders . So if I had to do it over again.... I would try to buy from the wholesaler in Australia. Worly or something I think they are called ... also you have ot make 100% sure it fits your Disco model (D II No secondary air etc)

But again ... buyer beware ... because if it leaks .... they will just straight up play games and rip you off.

But that's your best bet for an aluminum disco rad that I know of... unless someone here knows something else ..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So apparently there is not one person that can make an all flow thermostat for Land Rovers. All it is .... is an empty thermostat. I need this for wheeling in Death Valley. And I'm sure there are other people who would want to buy it. That guy at Carrs 4x4 made a 4 way aluminum connector to replace the plastic connector. Seems creative. Maybe someone could contact them to make an all flow aluminum T-Stat.

It's hot as hell in Las Vegas. It got to 111 degrees here and out in Death Valley it's even hotter.

This heat will quite literally kill you. And if you're in 124 degrees, wheeling hard, with the AC on full blast. .. you need all the cooling you can get. A 180 T stat doesn't cut in extreme dessert heat conditions. I cannot even sit in traffic at 105 degree temps with the air on without the temps blasting up to 218.

Someone please manufacture an all flow T-stat.
 
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