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wjsj69
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I need to vent my frustration b/c my beloved 2000 D2 just developed the dreaded slipped sleeve syndrome evident by the "Rover Tap". And right after I did the top end, assuring myself that the liners weren't going anywhere. I was fairly convinced that they would stay put since I was planning on avoiding an overheat situation at all costs, but alas; it happened anyway, even though my water temp never went above normal (auto meter gauge in cab), I've kept up with all maintenance, and always drive "mechanically sympathetic" to borrow a term.

So, I blew my limited budget on all my previous work done to date, and I have to sideline the old girl until I come up with a solution. Luckily I have a back-up with domestic taste in parts! (highly recommended if you are afflicted with the LR disease) I don't want to part her out. I think, besides the engine, it's a great truck, in its own class, with no competition here in the US. Hence the "disease".

It seems that the only cheap way to get her back on the road again is to pin the liners in place (pretty sketchy). The obvious best way is to top-hat the whole block$$. I'm certainly not going for a used engine since they're all time bombs anyway..

A diesel swap would be great but the legality for street use is vague as would be the condition of a used LR-TD, along with the need to have a compatible transmission..

I'm sure most others in this situation have just moved on, but I can't. I WON'T!
So, here I sit broken hearted...

Any consoling advice?? :frown
 

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2,423 Posts
I have driven 2 diesel discos one original and one converted and am pretty sure you will be disappointed with the overall performance of this conversion.
Not to say they do not have some advantages (low end torque/ fuel mileage and price) etc.
Fact is ....
There is a LOT involved in a conversion! Whether it is a turbo diesel Or a small block Chevy.....A lot more than it may seem on the surface.
We can all either admit or agree do disagree that Although the disco 2 4.0l and 4.6l are notpowerhouses they are a decent, simple and when properly maintained reasonably reliable engine. Not the best out there but not the worst either.
If I were in your shoes (I am glad I am not��)I would try to find a clean + hopefully maintained low mileage 4.6litre.
The transplant is very straightforward . Same rad, fan shroud,hoses, pumps, belts, mounts, exhaust, transmission, fuel system and most importantly electronics. Would be a very involved or very halfassed conversion if non of the original electronics worked in my opinion.
If you want to build a bush buggy / "Frankenrover" that's your prerogative.
If you want to resurrect your dead rover put a rover engine back in it!
What is a take one out - put one in going to take you? 10 to 15 hours?
Depending on your ability, knowledge and access to equipment.
Vs.
$$$$
+Problems, complications.
Yes. And some will say that used is a gamble
Life is a gamble! Deal with it��
 

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wjsj69
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks redtruck12, your bedside manor is a bit harsh for a person in mourning, but you are absolutely right on all points. Although, I like to calculate my gambles in life, and a used engine comes up all negative. I have one that was well maintained; it let me down. And this problem is an epidemic. Your experience with diesels is much appreciated. That's one less option to be burdened with. I do not wish to have a franken-rover either. I've always been a purist and would feel much more accomplished by improving on a problem, than giving up and throwing a chevy in it; and all the other problems that come with that. I'm just put-out b/c my budget is blown and have to either wait till it recovers or pin the liners which is a crude band-aid at best IMO. I just don't think that there is enough meat there in the block or the thin liners to hold threads reliably. Not to mention the pucker factor of drilling into the block. Thanks for letting me vent; it's good to talk about these things..
 

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I have a 4.6 in a Range Rover. Somewhere I read a thread about running Irontite Ceramic seal. Mine was starting to warm up at around 250,000km, so I treated it and it stopped using coolant and never overheats, now over 300,000km and as strong as an ox. The only issues with these motors seem to be the liners shifting. My suggestion would be look for a good secondhand engine and treat it straight away. We have done several others in our group, all achieving high kms with no issues.
 

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I too have used iorntite in the past but not yet in a rover. I know it is popular in transport trucks.
You mention "stop using coolant" by that I assume you mean stopped loosing coolant? You are still running coolant in the cooling system correct?
 

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Why not just drive it while you figure out what to do. ( Maybe not long distance.) Check out threads on this problem on the major Rover boards and you will see that many people have been driving with the tick for years and 10s of thousands of miles. The liner can't really go anywhere and it isn't really moving far. Mine has been ticking since last winter. I don't notice any other problems. Am trying various things to keep engine cooler as problem only starts when full warm up occurs. This is just my opinion and that of a few others.

Why use Irontite if you don't have a cracked block? Or is this preventative? I have the tick but am not losing any coolant.

The Master Techs out there might say different about what to do with your ticking. Sure, it is a ticking time bomb in the long run, as are drive shafts, fans, etc. etc. on these rigs. But, most of us knew it coming in.
 

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wjsj69
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update

Update: My fears were unwarranted about the liner. I appreciate all the suggestions, and I may try the Irontite in the future, but I have a new problem; I removed the valve cover on the passenger side (US) where the noise was, and found a broken rocker arm. I replaced it, making sure I used the correct orientation, and in less than 50 miles, I have a tap again with loss of power, and misfire codes, just like last time. I have yet to get into it to see what's going on, (due to total frustration), but I'll update again when I do.
:frown
 

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wjsj69
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124 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: Noticed that the valve spring wasn't centered in its pocket which caused spring-bind, breaking the rocker. I can't believe I didn't notice this when I assembled the head! :confused ..just glad I figured it out and didn't have to remove the head again! :banana: I hope this lesson I learned helps to keep it from happening to someone else!
 
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