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Discussion Starter #21
When I resealed my rear roof, I took the glass off of the assembly and then lifted the housing out. It was only sealed about 1/3 of the way around at that point.

If you decide to remove the glass, be prepared to replace the rubber grommets, as mine had disintegrated. Thicker rubber replacement grommets were difficult to install and longer screws would’ve been helpful unless you’ve got somebody to push down on the roof glass while you’re screwing up from inside. Be careful as I stripped out a few of my fasteners (Metal is soft) and had to retap and use larger screws to complete the work.

When I resealed my front roof, I left the glass on the assembly and lifted the entire deal out. It’s significantly heavier like that and more difficult to reinstall, and I required another set of hands to place it.

The motor needs to be detached either way, and then the assembly slides about .5” and you can lift it up.

I had truly hoped that I was suffering from drain tubes, but after 16 years of weather, that 1/4” foam strip they installed at the factory was in laughable condition.
 

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I think my window grommets are good so I'm going to try and not touch the glass. My leak seems to be the same as yours.

So do I remove the exterior trim with the window open and then close it and lift the whole thing out? After I take out the bolts on the inside and unhook the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I don’t recall needing to open the roof at all. Just remove all of the bolts around the glass and the motor from the inside, and you should be able to lift it out. It’s pretty heavy, and if you have any seal intact it will give some resistance.
 
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