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Discussion Starter #1
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sorry to start another thread but could not find anyone with similar problem.


since i have had the D2 i had a scangauge II hooked up and always kept an eye on the temp. last 2.5 years it was running at 197 steady and would go up to 202-206 on really hot days or uphill.

my mech had been suggesting a new radiator to prevent any problems down the road. he also recommend having it flushed every year to keep it working at 100%.
last week i decided to have it done, new radiator, new t-stat, new temp sensor, after i picked it up i headed to Boston (4hrs drive) and it was running anywhere between 215-230, had to run the heat at ful blast and all windows open to keep it below 210.

went back to the mech today, changed the temp sensor, did a leak test and all the cylinders are fine. the fans are working, the pressure on the hoses seem good. also found out that my mech had drilled 4 holes in the new t-stat to keep the coolant flowing at all time. no loos of coolant since last weekend, and try to bleed it myself but found no air in the system. engine purrs like a kitten lol

coming back home today, it shot up to 239 max, 230 steady with the AC on and 216-220 with the AC off. 211 with heat at full blast. 207 at idle.

i am pissed bc it cost me almost 1k to F&^%up what seemed to be working fine. obviously it was working fine before, unless the old temp sensor was off.

whats with the wholes in T-stat, i know everyone recommends that, but when i changed the t-stat myself, 2 years ago, i did not alter it in any way, and i thought it was working fine. could that throw things off?

also do temp sensors go bad overtime? maybe my old temp sensor was showing lower temp then it actually was?

what can trigger these symptoms after such a service? failed pump? fan cluch?
anyone can help out?
thank you
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disco biscuit
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The thermostat on those trucks provide a normal temp of 200-215. These design temps were for EPA reasons and mpg among others. I think the design temp is too high. I can tell you mine with new rad, water pump,aux fan and hoses. Rebuilt with the design thermo produces those temps. Get a lower temp thermo from lucky8 or British parts of Utah and It'll quit your worrying.

Here's one thread.
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57041

I don't know about 239 and higher temps. It kinda sounds like the axillary fans arent coming on with the ac. Check that out too.

I always think there's air in it because I've struggled with it.

Here read this one.

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75490
 

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This thread should be titled "Another improperly pressurized system".

More air in the system than coolant....I wish I had a dollar for every DII that had a big ol' air pocket in the heater core, radiator or somewhere in the system. You have to put coolant into the system properly... with the proper instruments...like this one,,, again....



 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank u
i have looked for air in the system haven't found any
well unless thas air bubble is stuck somewhere and is not floating up to bleed screw when cold.
also there is plenty of heat and no gurgling sounds on dashboard.
i was not present when he filled it up after replacing radiator so i dont know how he did it.
was present when he changed the temp sensor and saw that used a tool like a hand pump to preasurize the system through the exp bottle cap to see of there were leaks, no loos of preasure, no leaks.
will call lucky8 today for a tstat.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
fans seem to be working, lot of hot air being blow out of the engine bay, when the hood is up.
i can hear the electric fan working when the car is shut off.
should have put a big air scoop when i did some body work on the hood. lol
 

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If you have air trapped in the cooling system, you will hear the water fall sound, as it is described, while driving.
Consider PM'ing me your number and I'll call you today.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks Mike. really appreciate it.
but crazy busy with work and will not get to it till Saturday, not even colse to the car today to help you help me.
 

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If you are worried about over-heating, keep your driving to a minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i only drive it in weekends.
i got the p5100110 tstat on the mail this morning from lucky 8,
frankly i forgot what coolant i used 2 years ago when i chnged the tstat myself, from what i am reading here the DEXCOOL is no good?
since i am replacing the tstat tomrow, might as well flush it again and use a better coolant.
what coolant do you guys sugest?

btw, i am also reading in here that there is better mpg with a hotter runing engine,
these last 2 weekends that its runing hotter scangauge was showing about 17.5-18 mpg highway (55-60 mph), meanwhile before, 15mpg highway (70-75 mph) was more like it.
yes, i was driving slower while keeping an eye on the temp, just in case i had ot pull over if it started smoking.
now that i think of it scanguage is showing higher load on the engine. but its allover the place anywhere from 24 -50, for what i remember it was steadier.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
update
[email protected]$( now it running too cold. lol
installed the soft spring tstat today...
197 on idle.
193 city driving, ac full blast
188 on highway
down goes my mgp again lol
maybe the oem tstat is designed that way for a reason. i am not 100% sold on the soft spring tstat, but its on and its staying.
the 2 week old tstat seemed to have been stuck closed or not open enough from the holes my mech drilled in it.
 

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disco biscuit
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Yeah...

It is for epa and mpg ratings they run the temps hotter than the old days. It works better and is more controllable now especially with computerized fueling. Actually an engine should technically run considerably longer and stay cleaner if higher temps can be maintained safely...so consider yourself lucky because the softer spring is a much easier fact to live with...look at all the head gasket overheat threads current on this website. Are you less worried about that known problem/fix? I just bought a TDI Jetta gets 40mpg and runs like a scalded ass ape. My old lady gets really mad when I get drunk and run it through the woods though so there it is.

One thing worth mentioning especially in the context of this thread...the boiling point of water is 212F My 09 Chevy has 215-218 in dead center of normal range. They rely on higher boiling points provided in the antifreeze mix relationship. Kinda scary to rely solely on that in my opinion. I always correct people for calling antifreeze, coolant. Antifreeze raises the boiling point of water AND decreases its cooling characteristics. It also reduces cavitation in the system.

Well there's a crap load of TMI.
 

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Drilling holes in thermo??

I've not heard that previously..I'd installed a new thermo due to fact that upon inspection..I found the thermo had been completely drilled out..just a few scraps of metal clinging around edges..not sure why..but I'd recently purchased an 03 Disco with hole in water jacket, dropped sleeve, had a rebuilt put in..which was overheating just driving any old time..replacement thermo fixed that..have issues running AC in AZ summers though..looking to get new radiator before too long..ac fan was also burned out..so I try to 'watch' the temp when running it..I am hoping new AC fan..and new radiator will solve all my overheating...but question remains..do I need to drill holes through my thermo?!:help
 

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No, use a 180 soft spring, you will have good results with it.
 

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Let me start by saying thank you to everyone who contributes to this forum.
Without the valuable insight, I would have been sunk.
Secondly, I have inherited a 2002 Disco II from my son who moved onto a honda and is getting 38mph....Well, that's another story. I say that only to make note of the fact that I now have a vehicle that has a history that is less than clear.
Now to the point. When I got the disco, it had no tstat. The hoses had been reconfigured without one. No purge valve on top hose either. There was a fluid leak in the back of motor on passenger side. I assume from the head gasket. So downloading Rave I set to work. Ordered a Tstat and set of new hoses. Installed all and for first time ever this thing ran hot. Up until then always in middle of t-gauge but adding h20 daily due to leak. Added head gasket sealer (type that can be mixed with coolant). Leak stopped in 10min. But overheating. took top center hose off tstat and could see that the 4 small holes for bypass were clogged w/ "Nanotechnology". Removed tstat, cleaned, took it to the kitchen and checked for correcting opeing on stove top with thermometer (opened @ 185 and fully open 205), reinstalled, and still overheating. Again purged system and still overheating. Flushed radiator, still overheating. Read the idea about drilling holes in tstat. Drilled 2 ea 1/8" holes in tstat and reassembled....Running perfect. No overheat. Same warm-up time (granted it is summer and 90degF and I may notice some delay come winter). I saw the comments back/forth pro/con drilling. However, I thought if this didn't work that I would just purchase a softer spring tstat anyway. Thanks for all of the help. If I run into problems, I will update..
 
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