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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just recently noticed a spike in oil consumption on my 95 4.0SE. It has 140k on it, and runs great. Up until now it has been getting 1700-2000 miles before going down a quart, which is pretty good for the miles on a Rover V8. No it is cut in half, 1 qt every 900 miles or so. No leaks. In addition, it seems to be going through a little coolant. On two occasions there has been a fairly large coolant puddle under the truck after it is parked for awhile; but other times it doesn't even have a drip. So when adding oil I noticed there was clear water (condensation?) in the top part of the cap, not to much, but I could actually pour it out and it dribbled on the ground. Additionally, I noticed some of the milky mayonaise stuff in the PCV hose on the drivers side going into the air intake. The oil on the stick is very clean, and no pressure (besides the little that is normal) is building up in the coolant tank. Plus, the coolant smells entirely like coolant, no trace of exhaust gasses. Is some of the milky mayo gunk normal? I cleaned out best as I can. I know a clogged PCV can really cause the engine to use more oil, but how about coolant? It doesn't vapor much out the tailpipe; it only does when its warming up. Is there some type of flame trap or mesh to clean like on the Classic / 3.9L engine? I noticed both hoses wer mushy soft, I ordered new ones which will be put on this Friday. Is this good, bad, or catastrophic?
I have a line on a 4.0L engine with 50k on it from a 96 Disco. I can get the complete engine for between $500-600 dollars. The question is, will this engine just "plug and play" if installed into the Range Rover? Computer issues, etc?
 

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Head Gasket, I lived with one for a year, seem to spit coolant after extended drives. (that was the cylinder leaking into the coolent chamber and over pressurizing the coolant tank) I did the repair my self, and also discovered that the cam had lost it's harding on two lobs when dissambled. The repair was (head gasket) was very straight foward, I was not looking foward to removing the injection, but as it turned out, once the stacks were removed (inside the plutem) the wiring was unplug and the hole manifold/injuection remove. I had a harder time getting some of the exhaust nuts loose (rust and heat).
 

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hey mathew, is the head gaskets something I'd be able to do myself? I've done all other maintenance on my cars, ie...plugs, wires, oil and tranny fluid/filter changes, diff's, but haven't gotten into the engine itself before.
 

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troverman said:
I have a line on a 4.0L engine with 50k on it from a 96 Disco. I can get the complete engine for between $500-600 dollars. The question is, will this engine just "plug and play" if installed into the Range Rover? Computer issues, etc?
No one else seemed to notice your question, but yes, the answer is it will "plug & play" as you say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, good, thanks for replies. I will do the repair myself. It will have to wait until warmer weather, though. I did change the PCV hoses. Also developed a nasty RH exhaust manifold leak! This is going to be either replaced or welded soon so as not to burn out valves. Since the EAS is converted, can I ditch the heatshields? My Classic does not have them, and still has the original manifolds. Why do the manifolds wear out on the P38'a so soon? The driver's side is already done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Took the manifold off, had it welded, new gaskets, put back on--engine quiet again. Heatshields not only protect airbag springs but coolant hoses as well--oh well, put them back on.

After changing the two PCV hoses, two weeks later all of the milky residue is GONE! No HG repair now. Right now, this rover is great. The only thing is that for the first time ever the yellow ABS light (and subsequently the orange ETC light) did not go out when first driving off. Brakes are still fine.
 
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