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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 Discovery 300TDi which has developed an annoying vibration between approx 2250 rpm and 3000rpm through all the gears. It has 106k on the clock and I have recently had a new output shaft fitted, followed by a new clitch and rear propshaft. It seemed to start following the clutch/propshaft job and I have had the propshaft changed. Anyone have any ideas as to what the cause of the vibration might be?
 

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It's hard to diagnose without experiencing it first hand,but from your description i would say it it more likely to be related to the clutch job as it appears to be engine speed related rather than road speed related.
 

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My initial feeling is it is not the clutch, as I would have to be out of balance (and very badly, I think) to produce a vibration. So I would be thinking an injector issue.

Just to be on the safe side I would put a can of injector clean in the tank and see if that makes a change. It may be a coincidence.

Check your parts list for the clutch job. Did they replace both the pressure plate and the disk? Did they machine the flywheel?

You need to try and isolate the vibration more; things it would be handy to know are;
1. Is it worse/present/better under acceleration
2. Is it worse/present/better under overrun
3. Is it worse/present/better maintaining 30 mph
4. Is it worse/present/better maintaining50 mph
5. Any vibration/jerkiness changing gear
6. Is it the same in High/low ratio.


What you are trying to do here is isolate the vibration in relation to engine load, RPM and drive train speed. The answers to these questions may not provide an answer, but might help to isolate it more


Hope it helps


Tonka_Thom
:beer:
 

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I have the same on my '96 300TDi. Its got 104K on the clock and has just had the cam-belt done after stripping the teeth and bending the push-rods. On the test drive after doing the belt I noticed that the vibration/miss-fire had gone! (mine was about 2500 - 3000 Rpm).I was dead chuffed and put it down to the pump timing being out a little (i had to do some messing with pulleys etc to get it right).

However, 2 days later it came back and is there just as bad as it was......

Mine's engine realeted as yours and can be felt through the accelerator pedal. I'm at a loss to diagnose it at present, but injector cleaner may be a good way to check yours and do the engine some good at the same time....

I've laso heard that if the small metal tab that joins the inner and outer wings just behind the indicators (its the phillips head screw you can see at the top of the bumper end cap) corrodes and snaps (as they are prone to do by virtue of their postition) then it can allow the wing to 'drone' in time with the engine......... Just pop out the indicator unit and have a look in the gap (you cant see from under the arch 'cos its covered by a plastic liner thing) Might be worth a look.

I'd definatly try the injector cleaner though........

Bri
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help. A new clutch seems to have done the job. The previous clutch was put in under warranty by the garage I bought it from when the output shaft went (March this year). It would seem that they only used a cheap one. The thrust bearing was worn and the springs were loose.
 
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