[Rodewaryer]

Neither back door window functions on a Disco 1 I just bought. It's not the lock out switch, as I tried a jumper on those wires and the fuses are good. Is there something that's pretty common to BOTH rear windows not working? If one wasn't stuck down, I wouldn't worry about it honestly....as I pretty much don't use the rears anyway.

 

[Mr. Fitch]

Fixing non functional rear windows

There you go!

 

[antichrist]

The fix for windows really depends on the symptoms, which you haven't provided.
First thing to check is the switches, to make sure both the cubby box and door switch are good (assuming the motor isn't working and it's not the regulator).

 

[Tim the Enchanter]

It more than probably is the window ECU. Open the glove box and release the roller guides in the back so you can open it all the way. The ECU is to the right side of the ABS brake controller. Pull it out and remove the circuit board. You will probably see a very obvious bad solder joint. Repair it and put it back together. Most likely the windows will work now.

 

[antichrist]

Yeah, probably the ECU, but switches are easier to check.

 

[greenD1]

Window Lift ECU Repair Kit D1/95' RC | Land Rover Parts


I Just followed the intructions here and bought the wire and connectors from my local hardware store. It is nice to have the rear windows working again. Sorry if this is the same site that is refrenced above, for some reason dweb is not working for me right now. so I could not see what was on the link

 

[greg409]

Ditto Mr. Fitch

Fixed mine (after I bought (2) new/used regulators)

luck,greg

 

[Rodewaryer]

After seeing many Discovery 1's advertised for sale with rear windows not functioning, I thought it was a fairly common issue (even though my '96 has never had a problem). The fronts on this newly acquired SE7 (less than a week) work fine but neither rear window does anything, no up/down/sounds/clicks/motion/anything etc, suggesting an electrical issue somewhere common to a harness or relay etc. I find it illogical for the rears to malfunction when the fronts work fine unless a previous owner had some odd behaviors and used the rears more, or, as stated, there are common issues with Disco 1's rear windows. I kinda doubted switches as the issue, (both rears not working at all?) and eliminated the lockout switch on the window panel by jumpering it. Also kinda doubted both rears would have malfunctions within the doors (switches or motors etc) although I suppose that is a miniscule possibility.

Your suggestions have most likely covered it and have prevented much searching. Many thanks! I'll get on it this weekend......just hope for no rain as one window is stuck down about 6"......

 

[Rodewaryer]

Did the wire bypass instead of removing the circuit board, had too much trouble with the top plug, after near an hour of trying to get it unplugged I turned to plan B. I didn't realize Atlantic British allows the instructions to be seen on the site while shopping, nice. Rear windows work now. Thanks a lot everyone for your inputs. My '$1500 special' gets better by the day.....

 

[aliastel]

Window Lift ECU Repair Kit D1/95' RC | Land Rover Parts


I Just followed the intructions here and bought the wire and connectors from my local hardware store. It is nice to have the rear windows working again. Sorry if this is the same site that is refrenced above, for some reason dweb is not working for me right now. so I could not see what was on the link

I tried this on mine and it didn't work. Also pulled the board and it looked like new, with no dry solder joints that I could see. So, I guess I'll just have to replace the entire board.

 

[Tim the Enchanter]

Maybe it didn't work because the way the instructions are worded it makes it sound like you need to connect the jumper to the 1" of wire left at the plug. You need to run the jumper to the white/pink wire that goes to the harness, not the 1" left on the plug. The white/pink wire is the power feed to the rear window switches. Use a test light to see if you have power in the white/pink wire, you can just open the glove box and flip the rollers up to clear the slots and let it hang. If you have no power there you need to correct that. If you do have power check the lockout switch in the panel, it cuts the ground path for the rear switches.

 

[Crusty Rover]

Worked like a charm and was the exact same solder point on mine. Thanks!!

 

[TOM R]

mine has intermit rear window function, i dropped the glove box on a day when they would not work and tapped the ecm for them a they instantly worked guess I need to solder the board

things like this should be a sticky topic it is very helpful

update well 20 minutes of my time and it is fixed, same spot as in the pic

 

[NeoMobi]

I did the DYI wire jump as well with a piece of wire about 24" long and 2 wiretaps and its finally working after years of ignoring it
Now both rear windows work great

Window Lift ECU Repair Kit D1/95' RC | Land Rover Parts


I Just followed the intructions here and bought the wire and connectors from my local hardware store. It is nice to have the rear windows working again. Sorry if this is the same site that is refrenced above, for some reason dweb is not working for me right now. so I could not see what was on the link

 

[CANorCalCA]

Maybe it didn't work because the way the instructions are worded it makes it sound like you need to connect the jumper to the 1" of wire left at the plug. You need to run the jumper to the white/pink wire that goes to the harness, not the 1" left on the plug. The white/pink wire is the power feed to the rear window switches. Use a test light to see if you have power in the white/pink wire, you can just open the glove box and flip the rollers up to clear the slots and let it hang. If you have no power there you need to correct that. If you do have power check the lockout switch in the panel, it cuts the ground path for the rear switches.

12 years later and this comment saved my fix. Hooked up to white/pink wire attached to ECU. After a quick change to appropriate harness side the rear windows finally work! Thanks!

 

[PTSchram]

It is helpful to have a small pry bar bent to 90° to remove the connectors. They are tremendously tight

secondly, it is not necessary to remove the case of the ECU. If you gently prise the sides of the case, the plastic “bezel” will pop off and you can withdraw the circuit board

The upper rear fastener is so difficult to remove (in nearly, if not every, case) that it might cause you to question many things in life you previously accepted without question

I STILL have multiple boards in stock that I repaired and offered on an exchange basis!