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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the two years I have had the car it has drained the battery quickly if sitting. It recently sat for 10 days, and when I went to start it I could not even jump start it from my other car. Leaving the jump cables in place the other car charged it sufficiently to make the jump possible. With the ignition off I checked all the fuses under the bonnet sequentially, and found a 150mA draw over the contacts for fuse # 26, 20A, which serves the suspension ECU. Since I already had one fault I did not check the rest of the fuses. There are no warning lights and the car drives well. Can there be other solutions than a replacement ECU? May I have more than one current leak?
2011 RRSport HSE Luxury, 141k miles.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
 

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very disco
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it's normal for F26 to draw, and 150ma is pretty low. the EAS system remains active to continue keeping the car "level" while parked, and since that's by design I doubt that's issue. you could pull F26 and see if the problem persists, I suspect it will.

what's your battery age and health? has this issue spanned multiple batteries?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you. The battery is 11/2 year old, a Bosch 94R-BAGM in good shape. I replaced the battery due to this issue. I figured 150mA would not drain the battery completely in 10 days, so I will continue my search in the fuse department.
 

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Battery drains are not uncommon and tracking the source can be a real trial. Use a multimeter (and probably a long extension lead to see if you can identify any current passing from the battery to on of several parts of the system. The most common places are the radio, the electric seats (if fitted) and yes, ABS and the air suspension. Frankly I do not like your chances of finding the source and you will probably end up with an auto electrician doing it.
I have had this problem with two different Classics and a P38 and the obvious solution is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery when the vehicle is not going to be used for 2-3 days or more
 

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1999 Discovery II
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I had the same problem with my discovery 2. My rear suspension has been replaced with coil springs. But the EC you would kill the battery in a few days. Fortunately, whoever disconnected and removed the air suspension also have the ECU reflash. As a test I disconnected everything from the still in place air compressor. After a few days, and that didn’t turn any of the lights on, I disconnected and removed the compressor and its mouth. I have not had a battery drain since.

I do recall that on one of the forms, somebody had installed a relay that with Power that Circuit when you turn on the ignition, and allow that circuit to go off when you shut off the truck. It could potentially allow your rear suspension to sink.

when these things were new, they were driven on a more daily basis. Now that we have them as hobby vehicles in many cases, and they don’t get driven as often, it becomes a bigger problem.
 

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I know I am a little late to the party on this one. I have a Discovery 2 that also had a battery drain issue. It turns out it had a number of fuses drawing on the battery. I initially fitted a battery isolation switch but it meant I needed to open the bonnet (hood). I eventually fitted a 12v soleniod with a remote control. If you can live with putting in the radio code every time you start the truck then it's a good option. Total cost for the parts was around £150/$200.
 
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