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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Main Bearing replacement, is it worth it?

Hi all,
After I have finally got just about everything good on my 2000 Disco II with 184k, including green light on emissions... my main bearings are going out on me. Upon starting the engine 2 days ago, I noticed a clattering intermittent sound at the same time my low oil lamp illuminated on the dash. I used a stethoscope and was able to hear it coming from around the engine's coolant drain plug. I'm pretty sure this is indicative of the bearings going out. There are no noticeable issues driving when I noticed the noise. I think I am catching it before any major damage has been done.

My question is, has anyone ever replaced the main bearings and have their truck run for a decent amount of time after the repair without other major components going out soon after? I am assuming I should have to check the crankshaft at a machine shop for being "out of round" before new bearings. I have the garage and can make time to do it. The scope of my knowledge is what I've learned from fixing it for 8 years. A rebuild from the V up, timing cover, timing chain, oil pump rebuild, exhaust manifold gaskets, new water pump, new radiator and hoses, 2" lift and tire upgrade, awesome custom front bumper plus too many other things to name. All these things have little miles on them.

Is it worth a try or turn it into a parts truck? How hard is the job, any pointers, pull the whole engine?
Thanks
-Heather
 

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I hope you get some answers to this post because it's a question that I'm quite interested in also. I'm only at 137K on my 02 Disco, and it's been a great engine and will probably continue as such for awhile.

But of course, sooner or later it's going to have to come out because I intend to keep this thing running for as long as I can.

The costs of having it done at a rover shop here is truly frightening, so it would be of great interest to me to see if the job could be de-mystified for duffers like me.

Good luck.
 

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I have engines I've rebuilt last for more than 30 years.

There are Rover engines I've built that have exceeded 100K miles after overhaul.

Do it right, don't cut any corners and you'll be fine.

I can get some oversize bearings and if you have the $ I can get oversize pistons as well.

The last DII engine I built was right around $9000 including subcontract machine work, labor to assemble and labor to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I hope you get some answers to this post because it's a question that I'm quite interested in also. I'm only at 137K on my 02 Disco, and it's been a great engine and will probably continue as such for awhile.

But of course, sooner or later it's going to have to come out because I intend to keep this thing running for as long as I can.

The costs of having it done at a rover shop here is truly frightening, so it would be of great interest to me to see if the job could be de-mystified for duffers like me.

Good luck.
Thanks. I had a low oil pressure problem earlier this year caused by a FRAM XG oil filter. When I changed to a K&N filter my pressure issue was fixed. Unfortunately the wear to the bearings must have already commenced. It had no drivability issues when I heard the noise and parked it. Unfortunate and sad but I will post a write up if and when I do the rebuild. I'm cleaning out the garage now to do a engine rebuild. I need to see the shape of the lower half of the engine first to decide.
-Heather
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have engines I've rebuilt last for more than 30 years.

There are Rover engines I've built that have exceeded 100K miles after overhaul.

Do it right, don't cut any corners and you'll be fine.

I can get some oversize bearings and if you have the $ I can get oversize pistons as well.

The last DII engine I built was right around $9000 including subcontract machine work, labor to assemble and labor to install.
PTSchram, Don't I wish I had that kind of $ to work with but I have a daughter that will be getting brain surgery in Jan. I gotta check the clearances first. Maybe piston sleeves idk. I'm gonna check with the machine shop that's near me.
I read a write up about these engines and how there was "excessive piston skirt room" before these series trucks rolled out of the factory. JE Robison Service — the blog: Should You Rebuild or Replace Your Land Rover V8?
I definitely want to do it right and not have the engine fail due to other worn out parts later on. I've put too much time and money in it now. So many things have been replaced. It would be a shame to part it out.
Thanks for your insight.
-Heather
 

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Thanks. I had a low oil pressure problem earlier this year caused by a FRAM XG oil filter. When I changed to a K&N filter my pressure issue was fixed. Unfortunately the wear to the bearings must have already commenced. It had no drivability issues when I heard the noise and parked it. Unfortunate and sad but I will post a write up if and when I do the rebuild. I'm cleaning out the garage now to do a engine rebuild. I need to see the shape of the lower half of the engine first to decide.
-Heather
Hello,
I work for FRAM. I am trying to understand why you think you had a low oil pressure issue caused by an XG filter. They only have a 1.5psi pressure drop across the filter. If changing the filter brought the OP back up, the filter must be completely clogged with particles. We would be happy to evaluate it for you if you still have it. In fact, we make the K+N filter you did install (unless it is stamped made in korea) and that filter has a 2-3psi pressure drop when new. I can email you instructions on engine removal and bearing replacement if you like as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hello,
I work for FRAM. I am trying to understand why you think you had a low oil pressure issue caused by an XG filter. They only have a 1.5psi pressure drop across the filter. If changing the filter brought the OP back up, the filter must be completely clogged with particles. We would be happy to evaluate it for you if you still have it. In fact, we make the K+N filter you did install (unless it is stamped made in korea) and that filter has a 2-3psi pressure drop when new. I can email you instructions on engine removal and bearing replacement if you like as well.
Better yet, send me a new engine! To be quite honest I am furious this has happened and this is the last thing I needed right now. I have always maintained my engine and changed the fluids myself. I personally put a new oil pump in it a couple years prior. I had a FRAM filter in it when I noticed the low oil pressure light illuminating. I thought my pick up strainer could possibly be clogged. I knew the light was accurate because I could hear the engine starving for oil. I dropped the sump and the pick up strainer was clean. I refilled with new oil and another new FRAM XG filter off the same shelf only to realize the issue had not been resolved. I read and read and came upon a write up of some one else that used FRAM filters and realized the anti drain back valve was faulty and not keeping the oil charged in the system. After reading this I immediately changed to a new K&N filter from a different supplier and the problem was immediately resolved! I have used FRAM for years with no problems until 2 back to back defective filters starved my engine. Unfortunately the damage had been done and I'm screwed! How can you debate this being the case? Manufacturers make defective products and that is what happened to me. Thanks for hearing me rant but I wish I was not put in this situation to begin with. I took such good care of my truck.
-Heather
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Motorking,
I don't think I kept the filters but I will check. The first FRAM had about 2700 miles on it and the replacement FRAM filter was brand new. I am wondering how you came across my post, is it your job to search and do damage control for FRAM? I'm not being nasty, I seriously want to know. PM me for my email address.
Thanks,
Heather
 
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