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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Best way to get to the transfer case linkage? UPDATE FIXED

Alright well the Disco has been parked for a couple weeks and I have not touched it until yesterday. Did the seafoam trick before i parked it and i had thought it cleared up the recurring check engine light.... nope came back, yet to pull the codes. I'm nearly positive it will be random multiple misfire codes, suggestions?

My main concern however is the transfercase. It still won't go into neutral or low range. I have layed under the car while someone pushed on the lever and the linkage is clean and seems to be free but the lever on the case is not moving, jammed internally?. It it not easy to get to especially with the car running and hot exhaust. I was just wondering if anyone knew from experience what the easiest way to access the linkage is before I pull the center console and go from the top.

Oh and new goodies on the way 4 http://www.high-tec-retreading.com/sizes.html OTR MUD W spacer 265/75/16's and 2" rovertym springs
can't wait to attempt to get stuck! :buttrock:
 

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probably the only way to get to the linkages to actually see them and work on them is to take the centre console out. do some cutting around the sealed boots for your leevers and there it is.
if you need more details, let me know
take care
sam
edit: by crawling under the truck, you'll not be able to see all the linkages but might be enough to get some blaster and let it soak in... also you don't really want to force it too hard or you'll bend the linkage in which case, you'll have to get to the linkage, take it apart, hammer it straight again and slap it all back together
 

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if it is a D1, best and only way is to get to the shifter from above, remove the center console and you will be able to unhook the linkage and check the shifter, dont bother re-riviting the boot back on, just get some body nuts and stainless screws, that way it will be easier to remove/get back into later down the road, and the cup on the shifter, fill it with grease... -Andy
 

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You really don't need to cut the boot to take it off - the frame at the base simply pops out of the console.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool thanks guys it'll be this weekends work so i'll let you know how it all goes.
I'm missing my lowrange diflocked drag launches :buttrock:
 

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to clarify......
the boot around the shifter for the diff lock just pops out.....
the boot around the shifter selctor rod is rivited to the body, thats under the pop-out boot and under the center console.... those are the rivits that you drill out and replace with screws.... -Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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basically the seafoam trick is idiotic. why. if you have buildup on the valves only a rebuild will take care of it. once it is misfiring its too late.

But lets forget all misfiring for a moment.

You have the yellow check engine lite on correct.

if you do then you need it diagnosed. It could be anything. It depends on the code.


heres an idea I tell alot of ford customers I help on another forum I frequent.

Go to Autozone. Get the code. Dont use their line about buying o2 sensors and MAF. Its not true or their parts are crap.

Anyway post it here and I or others can help. If it is a misfire it could be wires and plugs. if it say one or two cylinders buy yourself the right wire from a Land rover dealer and install them and clear the code. Disconnect the battery. Test drive and see if it stays off. If it comes back on recheck with autozone. if it is still the same cylinders then more then likely its the valves hanging up.

If it is you need to remove the heads and have them sent out to get new valve seals.

they really arent that hard for a diyer with a bit of courage and the right tools.

at the same time nothing wrong with doing all the gaskets including the timeing cover gasket.

when your done pulling them off go to a shop and ask to use their parts cleaner and clean them off. And if you want to you clean the intake as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ALRIGHT!!! FIXED!!!

So, many thanks to those of you who replied. the console was removed all the way down to the open hole including removing the shifterbox assembly.

My problem was as follows: The unknown SAFTEY Solenoid in the transfer case was either dead or not recieveing the neutral signal. Its a solenoid that locks the transfercase linkage internally to keep from shifting it while in anything but neutral on the gearbox, relayed via Neutral Sensor. I don't really care either way as I pulled it out and have no intensions of replacing it since its one less way ole Lord Lucas Prince of Darkness can stop me from doing what I want should he decide he isn't working! :buttrock:

HEED THY WARNING, IF THY DIFFLOCK WORKS AND YE HI/LO RANGE DOESN'T.
CHECK THY NEUTRAL SENSOR AND TRANSFERCASE SOLENOID! :freak:
 

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DiscoPilot said:
ALRIGHT!!! FIXED!!!

So, many thanks to those of you who replied. the console was removed all the way down to the open hole including removing the shifterbox assembly.

My problem was as follows: The unknown SAFTEY Solenoid in the transfer case was either dead or not recieveing the neutral signal. Its a solenoid that locks the transfercase linkage internally to keep from shifting it while in anything but neutral on the gearbox, relayed via Neutral Sensor. I don't really care either way as I pulled it out and have no intensions of replacing it since its one less way ole Lord Lucas Prince of Darkness can stop me from doing what I want should he decide he isn't working! :buttrock:

HEED THY WARNING, IF THY DIFFLOCK WORKS AND YE HI/LO RANGE DOESN'T.
CHECK THY NEUTRAL SENSOR AND TRANSFERCASE SOLENOID! :freak:
There won't be any driveability issues, or issues with the TC if the CDL solenoid is taken off?
 

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It ain't got no stinkin' TC . . . .

D-Tex, D-Pilots 98 doesn't have traction control. As far as the check engine light is concerned, buy yourself a good OBD 2 code reader, with freeze frame function so that you will be able to tell what is going on WHEN the CE light is set off. Mine has random/multiple misfires but ONLY at first start up. Yes it is probably a valve issue, as I have changed everything else through regular maintenence over the years, but it only occurs @ start up or shortly there after. It nevers occurs during driving and it runs great. That tells me that tight tolerances on a cold (74*) engine are causing the valve problem. Also don't replace just one spark plug, and/or wire, and certainly don't buy them from a the dealership, as they only sell the oem crap that was "originally" used. Get some real wires, Taylors or Magnacores, and real spark plugs, like NGK's. Good Luck, LRWheelman
 

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My mistake . . . .

I was think of traction control as TC, not transfer case. And no, there should not be a problem, as long as you always put the transmission in neutral before you try to shift the transfer case. Thank you, LRWheelman
 
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