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wags
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Discussion Starter #1
Got a used 2 can cleaner with adapters in great shape for $200.00 reg $400. Did a 2 can air intake clean on the 06 lr3 hse with 94,000 on it. I have half a tank left of the fuel additive treatment. It has made a noticeable change in performance. Don't have the hook up for the fuel rail. Can a guy get one or improvise? Everyone we could get a hold of said they just do the 3 can kit ($35) from BG for the air intake in the LR's 2 cans through the intake with the adapter and then the fuel treatment can. Said it takes a special tool ware the line meets the fuel rail. Has anyone used BG's engine flush before changing oil?
 

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I swear by BG products.

There are two basic treatments for the intake/fuel system.

What you did already is an induction, or plenum service. That will clean out any oil and carbon build up from the top of the engine, throttle body, intake runners, but the chemical is not aggressive enough to do much to the baked on carbon that you get on the intake valves and inside the combustion chamber, and it does not do anything for the injectors. For that you will need to do a fuel injection service, where you hook up to the fuel rail, and run a different chemical through, run the engine off of it as opposed to gas.

The adapter that you will need from BG is #46, should be able to get in touch with a local BG rep that can get it for you, or talk to a shop that has a rep, and see if they can by it for you, and you pay them, obviously a slightly higher price then what they paid. Also, when doing pretty much any BG service, you want the vehicle at operating temperature, so I would recommend disabling the fuel system(with it cold) hooking up the machine to do the injection service, but running just gas through it a couple times to let everything get hot. Then do the service. When doing this, do not let the car stall out, it floods pretty easily, so as soon as you feel it starting to bog down due to low fuel, shut it off, and refill. When doing the injection service, you need to do throttle sweeps, like with the induction, but much slower, and no need to really go much above 3500, it's mainly to allow for a little more air to go through the system, and allow the injectors pulse to vary to fully clean them out.

The injection service uses a very aggressive chemical in order to clean all the build up away, but in doing so, it can also wear the plating on the spark plugs, if they're close to the service limit. I usually recommend a full tune up along with this service, and definitely an oil change afterwards, as the chemicals you're feeding through the engine are designed to break down oil.

I have not done an induction, and then later an injection, so I can not really say you'll feel much more, however, I have done induction instead of injection, and the injection service does provide even better results. However, the injection service that I preform, includes an induction.

Do you mean the engine oil flush?

If so, yeah, I've used it, it works well, but the AJ engine doesn't really sludge up very often, so I'm not sure what all will be accomplished. If just for sake of a little extra cleaning, go for it. I also very much like, and use on my personal vehicles, BG MOA with every oil change.
 

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wags
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
#46 for the fuel rail but how do you detach the round stainless coupling that the fuel line goes to that attaches to the rail? Once you take the clip off you can push it in and it springs back out but I can't get it unhooked. I have the BG Chemical kit for the rail. BG guy said the MOA is loaded with the good oil additives. Thought i might do a BG engine flush just before the rail cleaning or during then change oil, 95,000 on the engine.
 

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You need a 5/8" quick connect release tool.

I have several expensive 'master' quick connect sets, the one I use on these is a real cheap plastic one that you can find at any parts store, the link shows the type you should look for. Disconnect it with the system cold, after it has been sitting for a while to avoid as much spray as possible, and as I said before, run a few loads of fuel through the rail before the chemical to let it get hot. If it floods out at any point, put your foot to the floor on the gas pedal and allow it to crank, this will disable the injectors, it's the 'clear flood' procedure, just give it a minute between cranking, 1 minute for the starter to cool for every ~20 seconds of cranking.

As I believe I have stated before, for best results, preform the following actions... Replace PCV and air filter, preform induction service, preform injection service, replace spark plugs and ignition capacitor, change oil, test drive, reset all systems(a battery hard reset will clear your engine adaptions)

Popup Window 292744
 

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wags
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Picked up a quick connect release tool. Can I get the PVC and ignition capacitor from a Ford dealer? Whats the hot tip for plugs?
 

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A lot of the vehicle crosses over with Ford, but not that much of the engine, I don't believe Ford has ever used the AJV8. The PCV is a Jag part, and with the capacitor, LR has issues with them and has updated the design, but you would still have trouble finding a parts guy at most dealerships that knew what you were talking about.

A lot of plug manufacturers use different numbering systems, but I use NGK Ir, heat range 5, P/N IFR5N10.

Part numbers:

Capacitor: LR004160
PCV valve: LR003380

If you find a way to cross over these P/Ns to Ford P/Ns, please let me know, as it gets tricky at times, and I have yet to find a good way to do so.
 
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