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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! Thought I would just start chronicling my journey with this ride. It has already begun! But here she is when we got her:
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Pretty standard, all things considered. The paint was in great shape, no engine noises of any kind. Just a few bumps and bruises here and there, like some broken fenders (who doesn’t) and a cracked windshield.

A little elbow grease and we had her looking good.
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A detailing clay bar, some wax, and some mothers back to black work absolute wonders.

So far, I’ve installed an Ultragauge to keep track of the coolant temperatures. A new Lucky8 front drive shaft, a new gaiter for the emergency brake and the 4x4 shift lever. All the fluids have been flushed, including differential and transfer case (which were the color of milky mud and had about 1/4 of an inch of metal shavings on the magnet), transmission fluid and filter, and of course engine oil. So far so good!
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
So first question for the group! Took the car to get star certified smogged here in CA.... and of course a bunch of codes caused me to fail 😩😩😩.

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What do you guys think? I have JUST replaced the crank position sensor which I am almost positive there is only one of, but according to this there is an “A” which means there must be a “B”?

For the cylinder misfire I am going to change the wires and spark plugs to see if it clears the codes, but anything else I could check?

And I don’t know where to begin with the air
Flow sensor code. Any tips would be welcome!

Also, for someone who may have had a similar problem, when the car gets above about 2200rpm, the truck lurches and surges like the transmission can’t decide what gear to be in, and then goes into a limp mode with the “m” and “s” and D on the shifter all flashing. It only started happening when I changed the crank position sensor, so I have no idea what could be wrong.

Lots of issues! I appreciate all the help!
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I’d bet on plug wires for the misfire if you didn’t overheat. Bad parts exist try another cps
Nope no overheating! Ultragauge says I’m around 190-205 on any given drive. Cooling system seems to be the one solid thing that works.
 

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Those are the correct temps. If it were my truck I’d do wires and go from there. If you try another cps and it doesn’t work you can return it
 

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very disco
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The crankshaft position sensor cross references the crank position with the cam position sensors’ output
 
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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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58 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Anyone else have the same issues with codes and/or transmission bucking and limp mode at 2200rpm?
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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Discussion Starter #10
Christmas came early!

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A few goodies to try and clear the codes. We’ve got a new air filter, a new air filter box cover since mine is broken, a new max sensor to fix the maf sensor code, stainless steel brake lines and spark plug cables.

So if the codes are all gone after this, I’ll be super happy. Also after the full brake flush, new pads and stainless steel lines, if the truck still has squishy brakes, I’ll know it’s the master cylinder. So lots of work to do this weekend! I actually can’t wait to get started haha 😆😆😆
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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Discussion Starter #11
Welp, I was hoping to just change the spark plugs last night, but I tore one of the spark plug wires.... sooooo intake plenum is coming off for the rest of my Saturday project haha. I wish I had bought coils to just replace them while I’ve got everything apart, but hopefully plugs and wires will fix the problems
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also, whoever thinks you can do wires with the plenum on is absolutely nuts haha. There’s zero chance you could get your hand back there.
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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Discussion Starter #14
Well it was a hard process, and after dropped a screw down the intake plenum 🤦‍♂️... and then fishing it out with a flexible camera from harbor freight, I got everything back together. It runs good, and the misfire codes seem to be gone, as well as the maf code. BUT, the lurching starts again with the M and S flashing at 2200rpm. So that’s still not fixed. I also have code p1590 for ABS sensors. I think that one has to do with the hill descent light, so maybe the ABS sensors are bad.
 

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very disco
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Progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Progress!
yea!! Progress but not complete perfect running yet haha.

Tackled the brakes today! As it turns out, the brake pads had been recently done, although they were squeaky. I did new brakes, a brake flush and bleeding, and replaced the brake lines with stainless steel ones. Alas, after all of that, the brakes are still smushy and when you pump them it gets better. So I’ll take a poll of the gang here! I think it’s the master cylinder but what do you guys think?
 

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very disco
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How did you bleed the brakes?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
How did you bleed the brakes?
Rear right, left, front right, left with a one person compressor vacuum. There was zero air coming through the lines. And like I said, minus the rotors, the brakes are now completely new. I ended up ordering a master cylinder last night, so we’ll see if that works!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Updates!!!

The ol girl is running like a top! So I took the new crank position sensor out to see if I could clean all the connections and what not and found this:

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Found this ring attached to the magnetic part of the sensor 😳😳😳. No idea what it is, but it could have been what was throwing the sensor off. Regardless, the truck is running great now. All that remains is a p1590 code which I hope my new iLand from Atlantic British will help diagnose.

Also completed is a new master cylinder since the brakes still felt mushy after the new brake lines, pads and a bleeding. It feels better than it did, but still mushy. So I’m hoping after the iLand ABS bleeding it will all firm up. More to follow on that!

But at the very least she is now reliable! Camping trip planned for this weekend and I can’t wait to get her off-road a little bit!
 
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