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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will start out by saying it took us a total of 8.5 hours between work, work breaks, and active research. We started at 4pm, it gets dark at 5pm....it was 35 degrees out when the sun was up.


First we did the front extended brake lines....after bleeding the brakes we moved on to the extended ABS lines but after noting that they were in the hub and would have to remove the callipers and rotors we decided to do that later.

Our first big issue was we couldnt figure out how to fit the remote res shock through the top of the shock tower, and we couldnt take them apart and mess up the valving. Finally we just make the shock tower wider at the top to fit the shock through... ....then we had the problem of where to put the shock res. RTE said it would only fit forward, but it would hardly fit, and backward was near impossible also.

WTF!? Where does it go!?:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_381_full.jpg

It took us nearly 2 hours just to mount the drivers side shock, because we had to unbolt the shock tower and lower shock mount twice to get the res. where we wanted it.

Ahh...finally!:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_375_full.jpg

After we finally mounted the first shock, then came the second. I was a major PITA to get the res. in a good spot.....at least everything else was fairly quick because we knew the process at this point.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_372_full.jpg

This is a good time to introduce you to "The Crew"....without thier help it would have been impossible:

This is me about 7 hours in;

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_385_full.jpg

Casey Mock:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_383_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_377_full.jpg

JP Castel (My friend with the Jeep TJ):

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_379_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_378_full.jpg

Reid Walburg:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_386_full.jpg

And finally Cameron Walburg (owns a OME 2" DI) manned the camera.

More work pics:


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_380_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_382_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_384_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_387_full.jpg


We then put the tires back on to notice that the threading on one of my new lugs was stripped! :eek: I will have to just buy a new one from somewhere I guess. :(

Anyway...we put it all back together and used a spare tire lug nut to replace the damaged one for now. We used zip ties to keep the res. down, the metal ones wouldnt have worked. Soon enough I will probably go back in there and attempt to connect the res. to the shock towers.....untill then im sticking with this route.

To fit the passenger side res. we had to relocate the cruise control diaphragm a bit lower and to the left. Later on after the installation was complete I tested to find that my cruise control wasnt working. I checked the vacuum tubes and sure enough the one leading to the diaphragm was being pinched between the cruise control assembly and the wheel well body.....after relocating it again, the cruise control works. Throughout this process we used the guess and check method because there was no way to really mark where it was comming out....in hindsight I would have made a template.

...obviously the guess and check method is inferior to a template:


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_374_full.jpg

Keep in mind though....we had to relocate it twice. I'm going to have to use some silicone caulking or something to fill the holes.



One thing during the installation that I noticed was that the front driveshaft was hitting a crossmember when the shocks were fully extended.....this is bad. Have any of you heard anything abou this?? I wont have a problem unless they both extend at the same time....but im worried.....what confuses me is that someone with a 4" spring (RTE 3" lift) would have thiers closer to the crossmember and be in even bigger risk then I am.


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_376_full.jpg


Final res. locations:


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_373_full.jpg


I have yet to test the improved flex.....but one thing is for sure; the next time I put shocks with remote reserviors in something, im just going external.....screw this engine compartment mounting stuff.
 

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Customizeing is fun..LOL.....great story...where are the pics?
 

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Looks like a fun time for everyone.... Great pics........ Modifications are always fun..... Can't wait to see the better travel pics!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hehe....sharp lesra. Yes, tomorrow im turning 17. This wasnt a birthday gift; I was planning on getting some Lightforce 240 Blitz's or perhaps a hood blackout, or something like that but I will have to pay off my parents for the $609 it took to repair my rover and equiv. 52k checkup. Im in major debt right now.....will still be after my b-day....im going to start working weekends.


Oh hey! Your b-day is the 19th
 

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Why is everyone having such a hard time with mounting those resivoirs? Must be a DII thing. I don't remember having problems like that. Still, looks good Josh.
 

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wow- Maybe go with tubular shock towers and mount the reservoir to the side of the shock tower or to the side of the shock body?
I'd be a little concerned about heat on the reservoirs up above the exhaust manifolds. A lot of people put them there, but I've seen a lot of threads on rally car building forums about avoiding heat on the reservoirs.
As for the crossmember- it's only 8 small bolts... take it off. I cut mine and will weld a driveshaft loop in it so it encloses the front shaft- so if it breaks (and they do sometimes) it wouldn't take out my oil pan (and they do sometimes).
Good job getting it together- tough installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Muddy Oval said:
wow- Maybe go with tubular shock towers and mount the reservoir to the side of the shock tower or to the side of the shock body?
I'd be a little concerned about heat on the reservoirs up above the exhaust manifolds. A lot of people put them there, but I've seen a lot of threads on rally car building forums about avoiding heat on the reservoirs.
As for the crossmember- it's only 8 small bolts... take it off. I cut mine and will weld a driveshaft loop in it so it encloses the front shaft- so if it breaks (and they do sometimes) it wouldn't take out my oil pan (and they do sometimes).
Good job getting it together- tough installation.

I might do that....I havnt heard of cutting/removing the crossmember...is that safe?? I would definatly reinforce it with a loop or something like that if I did.

As far as the reservoirs, as you can see in the final product picture, they are not close to the exhaust manifolds.....but my cruise control assembly is....I am going to buy some metal heat shielding tape for the end of it.
 

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The only thing you can do for now is remove it- then maybe mod it or put spacers in to locate it down away from the shaft. DON'T drive it like that because as you probably noticed, the rubber seal on the shaft is where the contact occurs- and you don't want to mangle that seal.
The area above the exhaust manifolds retains a lot of heat- drive around awhile, then pop the hood and feel the reservoirs... yow!
I'd leave it that way until it's warm enough to work on it and actually enjoy it though. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The driveshaft is far away enough from the crossmember while the vehicle is on the ground....the pic was taken while the front axle was allowed to fully lower....we jacked up one side pretty far to see if regular articulation would be a problem and it isnt......as long as both sides are not completely lowered then it doesn hit...but I will have to do something about that soon.

Take a look at the pics....do they really look like they are that close?? they are all the way up on the hood insulation, and not directly above the manifolds. One is next to and above the ABS modulator and the other is behind the power steering fluid....perhaps that one is a bit close if its as close as you say.

This picture;
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/707000-707999/707844_381_full.jpg

was just a joke picture to show one of the several places that we were trying to get the res. though.....we were thinking of looping it under and around the ABS lines, but half way through we figured out that it wasnt going to happen....so we took a pic and moved on.

I can feel them after I have the engine running for a while, but where they are they should only be warm.


What I actually want to do is get new shock towers that are around 1" lower then the originals so I can get some better downtravel. I think what is going to happen is that the bumpstops are going to stop it about 1.5" before the shock bottoms out.
 
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