a few tips for eas bladder replacement
Hello! I'm glad you are staying with the EAS - the actual bladder swap is incredibly easy; done properly you'll spend more time placing the frame on jackstands and cleaning the (re-usable) pistons than you will actually replacing the bladders. Simply remember to break loose those lug nuts BEFORE lifting, and place the EAS in the "HIGH" mode, then either flip the disable switch under passenger seat (classics) or leave open both rear doors to "freeze" EAS. NOW DISCONNECT THE BATTERY to prevent any type of "out of range" sensor errors!!! Simply lift the rear and place a jack stand on each side, close to the rear wheels and resting against the frame. Now slowly lower your differential to obtain max extension on desired wheel/bladder. Clean dirt away from location on top of shock tower where air-line couples into bladder via quick-release type coupler. De-couple, and plug/tape open pipe to prevent dirt entering air-line back to compressor. Now SLOWLY lower floor jack JUST until bladder "pops" off pistons. If you don't do this FIRST, you may struggle to remove bladders from pistons. Set aside old bladders. Remove the small "clips" at top AND bottom piston/shock tower locations. Remove pistons and CLEAN WELL. Now just "pop" new bladder (right way up!!!!!!!) on pistons, "bend" bladder slightly to re-fit between axle and shock tower, replace clips, then air line. Now, instead of fighting with it, just raise your differential an inch or less, making sure you are still at about max articulation. Now, reconnect battery, leave EAS disabled, and restart vehicle. Allow compressor to rebuild pressure in air tank and THEN re-enable EAS (switch or door). Now, just let the EAS re-roll the bladder on the pistons. HOW? Select the LOW PROFILE button - this causes the EAS to falsely believe you are high-centered. So, being the EAS, it FULLY EXTENDS YOUR SUSPENSION (WAYYYYYYY beyond what you have ever seen it do) and actually extends the new bladders to FULL SIZE just like they came in the box. WARNING: watch out for overhead obstructions as this will raise the overall vehicle height substantiallly! Once full height is achieved, EAS lowers and the new bladders roll effortlessly and PERFECTLY back into place on the pistons and you are DONE! You'll know right away if it was the bladders or not, but usually, they go first, but people choose to ignore, which causes compressor and block to fail. Enjoy your Rover the way it was engineered to operate - for the next 40 to 60k, then: repeat
