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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Think it's a 1990, very similar to the '88 I used to have.
Made very sure it does not have an OBD II type control, nice normal distributor so easy to work on.
Parked due to very low power but at least should run.
MAY be able to find the engine fault to recover the lost power.
If not it comes with several spare engines.
I have a test stand and Allen "SEA" so should be able to sort through them for a good one.

All the current whining about "The Drought" has convinced me to get another Rover running before next winter.
I expect blizzards, I've seen how "Drought" ends in Nevada before!
 

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If you have a '90, that was the first year for the 14CUX injection system. That translates into a system that has a little OBDI display box under the right side of the passenger seat. It's a little black box that looks like this:

Land Rover Discovery Defender Range Rover Classic Obdi Display PRC7067 | eBay

It shows a little red two digit number that is one of these codes:

Land Rover Troubleshooting: retrieving fault codes

While the 14CUX system is a lot more 'shade tree mechanic' friendly, it is far from the best when it comes to diagnostics. The code can provide you with a general area of the engine management system to look for problems but it's not always as easy or revealing as later diagnostic systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finally got the Classic delivered.
Bit of tinkering and it now runs again.
No tags so could not road test it.
SEEMS to run fine except for a bit of stumble when letting off the throttle just before it steadies down to idle.
Idle seems a bit low and it sometimes dies.

The seller gave up on it as he states that it would run OK in low range but lost power in high range.
Particularly bad during acceleration.

I was able to do some examination using my oscilloscope, have to study the pattern a bit more but it does show more pattern variation than I like.

Need to find a source for the TACH lead to hook up before I can use the S.E.A. diagnostic functions!
The normal coil/distributor connection does not work.
I believe it should be on the alternator somewhere?
I have read that Rover uses three wires to generate a tach signal, that seems bizarre, like something intended to perpetuate the LUCAS prince of darkness myth!
I am sure I am not the first person to hook a 1990 Rover up to a diagnostic system so there has to be a way to pick up the tach signal.

I will worry about the ABS brake light issue after the engine runs properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
OK, after trudging through several post regards flaky tach's I think I am looking for a white wire on the "W" terminal above a pair of grey/white wires?
Just because the Rover has FI and electronic ignition does not mean there should be no place to hook up a diagnostic Dwell - Tach meter.
As rare as it appears to be, my tach works fine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tried again to use the S.E.A. without any real luck.
Rover seemed to run pretty good though so I took it out for an old fashioned seat of the pants test.
Not registered yet so could not get out on the open road but seems fine except for stalling at a stop.
The "lack of power - barely runs in high range" issue the previous owner complained of does not seem apparent.
So I will need to address the idle and give it a good servicing before registration.

One other immediate annoyance, the dome lights don't seem to turn off.
If they are on a delay timer how long should I expect them to stay on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The adventure continues.
Made the Rover look decent, rubbed out the paint and waxed it.
Repainted the grill.

Then decided to go for another local test drive before registering it.
Was running fine, then began a terrible front end wobble!
Got it stopped and the engine had also died.
Now will not restart.
I still have spark, it seems I do not have fuel.
Located and checked the inertia switch.

This is the same Rover that I was told ran fine in low range but poorly in high.
Thinking there is an intermittent issue, just the sort I dread.

So I'm reading through the manual for clues and posting here.
May take another stab at it this evening when the weather cools down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The intermittent problem may no longer be intermittent.

Seems that when the front shimmied badly the engine died.
I've determined the problem is no fuel pressure.

Filter is OK, plenty of gas, even added some 100 Octane to bring the overall octane up to what it should be.
Pump works for a moment, then stops.
Pump does not remain running even if the fuel rail has zero pressure built up.
I can jumper power to the pump and it will keep running but will not run from the proper circuit.

So I suspect a relay or contact.
Tried jumpering the connector at the front of the fuel rail but it made no difference.
Rover ran fine until this cropped up.
Relays all over the place, where would I look for the most likely culprit?
Perhaps a fuse I need to look for?
I checked the three fuses at the outside of the drivers seat and they are good.
More fuses all over the place too, many in out of the way (and reach!) places.

Front end shimmy.
I have some new bushes for the trailing arms and spare arms.
So will do the bushes and swap arms as soon as it runs again.
Only other tired bushings I can find are at the panhard rod ends.
Those at least should be cheap.

Lastly I'm annoyed that the electric fans come on even though the engine is cold.
They do not seem inclined to go off either unless I disconnect the battery.
Then they may stay off or they may come on again.
Engine is stone cold, does not run to get hot.
 

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Metal relay on the RH outer footwell. One of two, controls the fuel pump.

You should definitely replace the panhard bushes as they can contribute to the shimmy. Also, check swivel bearing preload, another common source of front end shimmy.

Test your fan timer relay control relay. It's a large green relay. It may be in the same vicinity as the fuel pump relay but it's been years since I've touched an older Classic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If I spray fuel into the intake the engine runs for a moment so it's clearly a fuel issue.

Fuel pump comes on for moment when the key is turned on but does not continue to run even if the hose is disconnected from the fuel manifold.
I do hear a short buzz from the relay when ignition is switched off.
Being directed into a catch can no fuel pressure is being built up in the fuel rail, so it would seem to me that the pump should continue to run?
I am going to try to measure fuel pressure but don't see that working if the pump only runs for a moment.
So is it one relay to prime the system and another to keep it going?
Ran fine until the juddering front end killed something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well the good news is it runs again since I found the coil wire that fell off.
Thought it should be something simple since it was a front end shimmy that killed it.
Of course it was the lower wire with the reversed spade connection, the one that is a bit hard to see.
I may do away with the spade terminals entirely for something a bit more secure.

Seems to like that 100 Octane gas I put in. :)

Now to fix the shimmy and change the oil.
Also have to figure out the intermittent rubbing noise at the rear.
And new fasteners to put the inside drivers door panel back on would be nice too.
Not sure if replacing the headliner is worth the effort?
May even find a radio for it, or maybe just a flash drive player as I cannot stand modern commercials.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ugh!
$240.00 each for seat switches.
They must be made by Ferrari instead of mere Lucas!

So what sanely priced switches fit?
Or do I have to make something up?
Can't be THAT hard so there should be a ready answer.
 

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seat switches are not $240 ea. The same switch is used in other vehicles; but I don't remember which, maybe someone will. I have rebuilt mine in both a 90RR and my current95lwb. Take the switch out and put it in a shoe box before you open it up. then open it up and clean. Springs and balls will go everywhere, but you'll get it back together alright. Also, someone on this BB was rebuilding for awhile; maybe he'll chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have no old switches to fix.

Searching the web I see new switches at insane prices and used at around $100.00

I think I will make a new cover and fit three sealed momentary rocker switches that will outlast the Rover.
Just have to figure out which terminals to use.
Somewhat surprised no one has made such a replacement module commercially.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That was not so bad.
Right side was the hard one as getting the ball joint off is difficult since the link does not really want to clear the tailing arm.
Have not driven it at speed yet as I want to also replace the panhard rod bushes.

Found that the drivers side spindle/hub moves very freely, no slop but I suspect that it should have more pre-load on the upright.
 
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