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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys so my brother and i changed the pads on my 98 D1 apparently he took the Caliper apart and didn't tell me when he did the rear passenger while i was doing the fronts.

Days later i start it while its on the stands and wheels off, put it in drive to test them and it wont even stop the rotors.

I also hear a noise (hard to describe but doesnt sound good) coming from around the master cylinder, abs, brake booster area. the peddle is very soft while the car is running and at the bottom in pulsates trying the stop the rotors. Did a quick bleed but didnt get any air from any wheel. Could i have Air in the ABS? if so how would i go about getting it out. I have minimal experience with Brake systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What do you mean "took the caliper apart"?

Driving on stands is freaking out the SLABS system.
poor choice of words on my part. i think he took it off and said some brake fluid cam out so im not sure if he removed a line or undid a screw he wasn't supposed to.

I not familiar with what slabs system is? it is a discovery 1 LSE with wabco ABS module. ill look up slabs but could you describe what that would do in my situation. why is being on stands a problem? might be a dumb question.
 

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Sorry- SLABS is D2. That adds descent traction control.

Your ABS is getting crazy readings from the wheel sensors as each wheel is not turning the same.

If you opened the system, you're going to need to bleed the brakes. Start at the driver's rear and work counter-clockwise. You should consider doing a brake fluid change since most of the work is done already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry- SLABS is D2. That adds descent traction control.

Your ABS is getting crazy readings from the wheel sensors as each wheel is not turning the same.

If you opened the system, you're going to need to bleed the brakes. Start at the driver's rear and work counter-clockwise. You should consider doing a brake fluid change since most of the work is done already.
I bled each wheel like normal and the master cylinder was full the whole time. so i think im good there. so in theory i should be able to chuck the wheels on it drop it down and the brakes should work then? (in theory)
 

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With new pads you should have a firm pedal with little travel. Like with all fresh brake jobs, recheck the work including all the fasteners and then cautiously begin driving it.

Also, this is a good lesson for you and anyone else that has yet to figure this out- don't let people "help" you, especially when you're working on a critical safety system. You have no clue what they did, or if it was right. So now you need to double-check his work. I would ask for a very clear explanation on why a caliper was removed. And look at the pads. You'd be surprised how often a brake pad gets put on with the metal backing in contact with the rotor.

Also, make sure the ABS sensors are correctly in place, installed correctly, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea im learning the "do it right, do it yourself" moto.

the sensors wernt touched when doing the pads. (as far as i know)- ill check. At quick glance after the job was done nothing jumped out but i go though it more thoroughly. ill take her out in the field and see if that solves the problem least i wont hit anything out there.

that feeling of it on blocks and trying to stop is rather alarming. ill try and describe the sound further once i get it back on the ground. but it was a juddering through he peddle and almost a squealing+ juddering sound coming from the master cylinder, abs, and booster area. Just dont want to break anything if something is wrong outside of my knowledge
 

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You were just causing the ABS to activate- as it should. It was seeing different velocities from each wheel and that caused it to activate. The braking system is designed to slow a pretty heavy vehicle and when there's no load on the tires, the ABS is incapable of modulating adjustments to that fine of a degree. In short, you were making it do something it wasn't designed for or capable of dealing with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ill report back when i drop it down and test it. That does make sense though. CT090 thanks for the heads up.

I just have to wait for a new shock mount to come in from Atl Brit. I sheered the old one when taking the rusted nut off. even soaked it overnight in pb blaster. By the looks of it the shock was probably orig to the vehicle as well. either way stupid mistake on my part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You were just causing the ABS to activate- as it should. It was seeing different velocities from each wheel and that caused it to activate. The braking system is designed to slow a pretty heavy vehicle and when there's no load on the tires, the ABS is incapable of modulating adjustments to that fine of a degree. In short, you were making it do something it wasn't designed for or capable of dealing with.
Just to complete this, rechecked all work done no issues. tried bleeding brakes again no more air came out.

SO i decide to "test" it by putting all 4 wheels on and just giving it a go. U were absolutely right it worked fine! no braking issues at all! must have just been all 4 up on jack stands that was throwing the abs off. We all good!

thanks!
 
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