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Drives like an old man
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Discussion Starter #1
I did some searching to see if my problem had already been solved but didn't find anything. My brake lights (all three rear stop lamps) are lit all the time. I'm sure people think I'm dragging my brakes (a habit I detest), but that's not it. I drive with one foot. I was looking at the wiring diagram and thought maybe the brake light switch was bad. Still could be, but I also thought maybe there's a HDC problem. As I understand, brake lamps are lit when using HDC. I'm of course not using it but maybe the problem is there. Coincidentally (or not!), my cruise control stopped working.

Any ideas? Should I just shut up and replace the switch? Thanks!
 

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My first thought would be the brake light switch as well. To test the HDC theory I wonder if there is a fuse that you could pull fuse F27 disable it.

Also check fuse 30 to see if it is blown for the cruise control.
 

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Drives like an old man
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Discussion Starter #3
Roger that. I did check fuse 30 and it's still good. I even pulled it and ohmed it out. My thought is if the brake light switch is shorted, it would cause both issues. Could I be so lucky? I will pull fuse 27 tonight and check for smoke.
 

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dumb question when you start it can you shift out of park without touching the brake pedal?
 

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It's simple to rule the brake switch out, depress completely the pedal and pull the switch's plunger with your hand utill it touches it, then you'll know it's well adjusted... if the symptom still persists simply unplug the brake switch and if the lights go out that's it, if it's not the brake switch we'll speak then cos it becomes complicated as the HDC's brake lamp relay is soldered into the fusebox's PCB

don't remove F27, it doesnt help in this diagnose as long as the HDC warning light is not on cos it feeds the HDC switch also removing F27 you'll cut the instrument pack's main feed, the feed for the brake switch is F25 but that's common for the HDC's brake lamp relay too so the lamps will go out but you'll still not know why
 

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Drives like an old man
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, Fery. On my drive home, it dawned on me to just unplug the switch and see what happens. Duh. Events conspired against me, so I didn't pursue the problem. I certainly will tomorrow, though. Can't tonight. Astros in 5! Or 6! 7?
 

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The fact that the cruise control stopped working also points to the brake light switch being bad. If the computer thinks the brake pedal is being pressed the cruise control won't be activated.

As Fery pointed out the brake light switch can be adjusted, but if you buy a new one please know that prices can vary widely for them. A redesigned switch that was used originally in a different Rover is supposed to be more reliable. In addition to the new switch a short wiring adapter or pigtail is required. Atlantic British sells the combo for $49.95 (XKB000010OEM). AutoZone sells the same part where I live for $11.95 (LU410). The one from AutoZone comes in a Duralast box but the Land Rover logo is molded into it and it is marked Made in Germany.
 
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Drives like an old man
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Discussion Starter #8
Here's what I found when I removed the old switch. The plunger doesn't quite touch the pedal arm, so no amount of pedal movement actuates the switch. One would think there would be an adjustment of switch position to make it work, but it doesn't appear so. The switch seems to work fine out of the car but, because it never comes in contact with the pedal arm, it never gets to do its job. This is really strange, as it used to work fine. Nothing seems bent or broken and I see no adjustment either on the pedal, switch or switch mount. I am hoping the replacement has a longer plunger.
 

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The plunger doesnt come out very easy but deffinitely you should be able to pull it untill the depressed pedal, attack it with a bit more brutality, if you can't it means it's fubar and you need another...i adjusted mine once and it worked exactly as in the guide:
 

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Drives like an old man
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Discussion Starter #10
More brutality! The answer to all life's problems! OK, I'll try to be more convincing. Thanks, Fery.
 

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The plunger doesn't quite touch the pedal arm, so no amount of pedal movement actuates the switch. This is really strange, as it used to work fine. Nothing seems bent or broken and I see no adjustment either on the pedal, switch or switch mount.
Have you considered that it might not reach the pedal due to it being stuck in the on position.
Just looking at it is not going to tell you whether it is faulty of not. Put a multi-meter on the two pins and see if it is creating and then disconnecting a circuit as to push and release the plunger.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The problem is a crappy design (say it ain't so!), one of many. I pulled it out and applied more brutality as Fery suggested and, sure enough, it pulled out. I'm using it now while I wait on my new switch to arrive, but I can tell it's weak and will fail again soon. As for function, electrically it works fine. It's just a very weak physical design.
 

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dumb question when you start it can you shift out of park without touching the brake pedal?

I know this question is a few years old, but my '04 disco currently can shift without hitting the brake, but can't shift if you DO press the brake. Brake lights are on as soon as you put the key in on position, but dim when you press the brakes.
  • Changed brake switch, no dice
  • Changed blown fuses,haven't blown again yet
  • Trailer harness smelled funny, noticed burning on two wires, removed the aftermarket harness and converter module
I'm stumped, seems as if pressing the brake switch is making the shifter-lock and brake lights behave backwards.

Any advice would be truly appreciated 🤙🏽
 

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First of all which fuse was blown, cos you seem to have a short in the harness somewhere
 
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