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In the picture of the cylinder head, the cylinder on the left in the picture looks washed and chalky white near the plug ( both indicate coolant in the cylinder) if you can’t find a fault in the gasket then have the heads checked out.
If they don’t find a fault that explains it in the heads then you likely have a slipped / leaking sleeve.
Been there 😑
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Both heads removed...
No sign of blown gasket, gummy orange substance clogging ports on the end. Started job due to boiling coolant in expansion tank, then smoke out of exhaust. Normally signs of coolant leaking into combustion.
Now not sure if the clogged ports may have caused coolant to sleep through gasket on the 2 firewall chambers...
...next, plan to clean heads, carefully remove pieces of gasket stuck to surface
>any suggestions on best way to remove without damaging either surface?)
...then begin reassembly
>any suggestions on spray to help secure head and exhaust gaskets? and what sealant to use for valley gasket corners?
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thank you all for your knowledge and assistance!!!

I was able to install new head gaskets and reassemble(few more pics below)
Reassembling took longer than expected, I didn't clean parts as I removed, my goal was to get the heads.
Cleaned all mating surface.

IT STARTED!!!
Lot less white smoke than when I started the job...Got excited...shut it down... then I realized.....
I still need to replace radiator, thermostat, and flush coolant system...

Are there any other suggestions and the exact order ?
My first mind is add coolant and start driving, though seems there is a bit more work to go...

What's next before I put it in (D)rive ?
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...waited to add shroud to make sure it started
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
...still pressure build-up
...time to test. Added coolant.
Heat warm, but not hot when adding coolant and bleeding before test drive.

Idled at 210f consistently for 15+ minutes.

Short trip around block and 1st stop light temp rose to 218, then back to 210, second stop light longer, temp up to 228-230. Pulled over and shut off.

Hissing and white smoke under hood. Noticed leak from pipe inlet.(photo)

Luckily it released pressure from inlet pipe and not head gasket...

All hoses were warm/hot except lower radiator hose. Top engine facing radiator surface warm, bottom cool.

Belt routed correctly

No more bubbling overflow, no more white smoke from tailpipe...

...but still high pressure build-up...??? From where/what part....???

Guess radiator flush or replacement next
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Still pressure under higher load.
changed thermostat, was able to bleed and get heat.

210 Idle 662 rpm 9% Load
208 Rev'd to 2175 rpm with heat on 21% Load
208 Rev'd to 2421 rpm with heat on 22% Load
Drive around block again, overheated again, blew top hose at the "T"

Radiator cool, top hose hot.
Removed top radiator hose and found gritty residue, water flowed well when poured through top hose to the bottom.

Still building pressure under higher than idle load...
TBH, Heater core, or...???


inside top radiator hose

idle

rev'd to 2421rpm with heat on

rev'd to 2175 rpm with heat on
 

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Replace every coolant hose and plastic fitting in that thing. Also get a new soft spring 180 thermostat. Also make sure you bleed it properly. These trucks are a total nightmare to bleed, and an air bubble will give you those kinds of temperatures. Once the thermostat opens, open the top bleed screw and rev it to like 2k rpm and hold it there until you have nice hot air off the radiator and heater. It might take a couple tries to get all the air out. Just be patient. And if one hose blew, they’re all gonna blow. Replace everything! Including the overflow tank cap, which regulates pressure inside the system.
 
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