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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2006 Range Rover Sport HSE 4.4L V8 with 159k miles

About a month ago, I was driving and noticed the shifting seemed different. I looked in my parking spot and noticed transmission fluid, so I looked under my truck and the fluid appeared to be coming from the valve body sleeve

I purchased this kit from Amazon Amazon.com: Transmission Filter Service Kit with Original Equipment Replacement Filter, Pan and Fluid for Land Rover LR3, LR4, Range Rover Full Size and Sport : Automotive

A friend of mine tried to install it for me since he has done it before on a full size Range Rover, but of course my Sport proved to be a lot more difficult. In addition, since my kit came with a metal pan instead of the OEM plastic one, he was having a really hard time tightening all the bolts.

Since he couldn’t finish he never reinstalled the heat shields.

I towed it to High End Indy Shop #1 and asked them to read the transmission codes, tighten my pan bolts and fill up the fluid. After reading the codes they said my fluid was really low (which of course it was since it drained out when we removed the old pan) and they gave me a list of the following transmission codes:

01157
P0730
P0729
P0735
P0735
P0500
P0732
P0738

They recommended I take it to a transmission specially shop and get a full rebuild. Their reasoning was because their was no slipping on 1st or 4th gears - but every other gear was slipping which they said indicates major internal transmission problems - in particular because their is no slipping or loss of power in reverse.

I told him the truck has been driving fine, and that all I did was change the pan and filter. I asked them to continue finishing tightening the pan and filling up the fluid but they declined and said they didn’t want to do any more work on my truck.

I towed it to High End Indy Shop #2, who got the pan tightened and fluid filled.

I picked it up from them and test drove it for the rest of the night. No sign of any leaks so I went to bed happy.

The next morning I hopped in and turned the key. No cranking, but I hear a click from the glove box.

I tried to shift and start in neutral, but the gear shift won’t move.

Headlights and dash lights all work.

I only have 1 key and when inserted, the red flashing security light on the dash goes off, so I don’t believe it’s seeming like an immobilized problem.

I checked the AGM battery that I purchased last year and voltmeter said 12.7 volts, tried to jump it and no difference.

Battery tested good, but I still exchanged it for another brand new battery just in case. Still no difference.

Here is what is appearing on the dash right now

- An “E” where the gear normally appears

- HDC Fault System Unavailable

- Check Brake Pads (front and rear pads were changed in the last 3 months so they are all Fine)

- Engine System Fault

- Transmission Fault Limited Gears Available

- Transmission Fault Stop With Care

- Parking Br Fault


I’ve been researching the forums for ideas on what could cause both no crank and no shift and here is what I plan to try next

1. Brake light switch
2. Unplug battery cables and touch them both together for 60 seconds
3. Inspect the pigtails for moisture/corrosion on the transmission module behind the battery


Please let me know if you have any other ideas or suggestions

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had similar problem. Someone told me to lock and unlock the door with the fob or key several times. I did let it sit overnight and the next morning it started up.
Definitely worth a try


Did yours have both problems or just one?

1. Engine won’t crank when the key is turned
2. Shifter won’t move out of park to any other gear
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport HSE 4.4L V8 with 159k miles

About a month ago, I was driving and noticed the shifting seemed different. I looked in my parking spot and noticed transmission fluid, so I looked under my truck and the fluid appeared to be coming from the valve body sleeve

I purchased this kit from Amazon Amazon.com: Transmission Filter Service Kit with Original Equipment Replacement Filter, Pan and Fluid for Land Rover LR3, LR4, Range Rover Full Size and Sport : Automotive

A friend of mine tried to install it for me since he has done it before on a full size Range Rover, but of course my Sport proved to be a lot more difficult. In addition, since my kit came with a metal pan instead of the OEM plastic one, he was having a really hard time tightening all the bolts.

Since he couldn’t finish he never reinstalled the heat shields.

I towed it to High End Indy Shop #1 and asked them to read the transmission codes, tighten my pan bolts and fill up the fluid. After reading the codes they said my fluid was really low (which of course it was since it drained out when we removed the old pan) and they gave me a list of the following transmission codes:

01157
P0730
P0729
P0735
P0735
P0500
P0732
P0738

They recommended I take it to a transmission specially shop and get a full rebuild. Their reasoning was because their was no slipping on 1st or 4th gears - but every other gear was slipping which they said indicates major internal transmission problems - in particular because their is no slipping or loss of power in reverse.

I told him the truck has been driving fine, and that all I did was change the pan and filter. I asked them to continue finishing tightening the pan and filling up the fluid but they declined and said they didn’t want to do any more work on my truck.

I towed it to High End Indy Shop #2, who got the pan tightened and fluid filled.

I picked it up from them and test drove it for the rest of the night. No sign of any leaks so I went to bed happy.

The next morning I hopped in and turned the key. No cranking, but I hear a click from the glove box.

I tried to shift and start in neutral, but the gear shift won’t move.

Headlights and dash lights all work.

I only have 1 key and when inserted, the red flashing security light on the dash goes off, so I don’t believe it’s seeming like an immobilized problem.

I checked the AGM battery that I purchased last year and voltmeter said 12.7 volts, tried to jump it and no difference.

Battery tested good, but I still exchanged it for another brand new battery just in case. Still no difference.

Here is what is appearing on the dash right now

- An “E” where the gear normally appears

- HDC Fault System Unavailable

- Check Brake Pads (front and rear pads were changed in the last 3 months so they are all Fine)

- Engine System Fault

- Transmission Fault Limited Gears Available

- Transmission Fault Stop With Care

- Parking Br Fault


I’ve been researching the forums for ideas on what could cause both no crank and no shift and here is what I plan to try next

1. Brake light switch
2. Unplug battery cables and touch them both together for 60 seconds
3. Inspect the pigtails for moisture/corrosion on the transmission module behind the battery


Please let me know if you have any other ideas or suggestions

Thank you
WOW - I’m having the same issue! Discovered the tranny connector was getting tranny fluid in it - a few times, you could disconnect, blow it out/some brake clean, plug it back in, clear all codes and it would start, run/drive fine for a while and then it would start throwing codes, dash lights coming on I didn’t know existed. I just left it sitting for awhile, too busy to deal with it. Now it’s in the tranny shop, starter will not engage - like the computer isn't allowing it to engage.
Transmission was fine until I allowed my “other cars” repair shop to change fluid because it too was leaking around the orange round plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You need to have someone put a code reader on it. You can throw parts at it until the cows come home but scanning with a good scan tool will at least give you a direction in which to throw those parts.
I have an Autel Maxiscan OBDII Scan Tool, which gave me 2 Pending codes

P0851
U0101
 
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