check engine light?
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3,205 Posts
Code 48 - Stepper motor
Check base idle speed as follows:
1. First remove and clean the idle motor and the port it screws into. Clean the throttle body as well.
2. On the top of the throttle body you will see a hole (possibly covered by an anti tamper plug) for the base idle adjuster.
3. Remove the air bypass hose from the throttle body, which will cause the engine to speed up to 2500rpm or so. Unplug the connector to the idle motor after 5 seconds then reconnect the hose.
4. Squeeze the hose shut with needle nose vise grips and adjust the base idle using an allen wrench to give an idle speed of 6-700rpm. Get the lowest speed you can that gives smooth running and does not stall when blipping the throttle. Screw in for slower idle, out for faster idle.
5. Reconnect the idle stepper and remove the vise grip and you should be done.
6. In addition, refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure. Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.
I got this from this site....
http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_trouble.asp#1990
Robison is an expert mechanic and haunts the Rovers North BBS.
I don't know what procedure this is and I have never done it. Maybe someone else can throw in a comment or two.
Check base idle speed as follows:
1. First remove and clean the idle motor and the port it screws into. Clean the throttle body as well.
2. On the top of the throttle body you will see a hole (possibly covered by an anti tamper plug) for the base idle adjuster.
3. Remove the air bypass hose from the throttle body, which will cause the engine to speed up to 2500rpm or so. Unplug the connector to the idle motor after 5 seconds then reconnect the hose.
4. Squeeze the hose shut with needle nose vise grips and adjust the base idle using an allen wrench to give an idle speed of 6-700rpm. Get the lowest speed you can that gives smooth running and does not stall when blipping the throttle. Screw in for slower idle, out for faster idle.
5. Reconnect the idle stepper and remove the vise grip and you should be done.
6. In addition, refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure. Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.
I got this from this site....
http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_trouble.asp#1990
Robison is an expert mechanic and haunts the Rovers North BBS.
I don't know what procedure this is and I have never done it. Maybe someone else can throw in a comment or two.
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672 Posts
so here goes ..
well i removed and cleaned the throttle body put it back on also used throttle body cleaner and wiped it off.well it all looks clean.
now i had to clear the code for which i went to the passenger side and followed the directions given to clear the codes at http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_trouble.asp#1990
and guess what ?
The fans come on..and code 02 came up too
Code 02 - Power interruption
This code means power to the ECU has been disconnected and the truck has not yet been started. This code should go away as soon as the vehicle is started for the first time. Appearance of this code while driving may signal a problem within the ECU.
The code got cleared as soon as i started the truck. but the fans stayed on
the check engine light has gone but the fans wont stop now
not even if i remove the keys from the ignition..
so i had to go ahead and disconnect the fuses and they are quiet for now..
so any know how to get them back to normal now?
all have been a great help especially okierover
well i removed and cleaned the throttle body put it back on also used throttle body cleaner and wiped it off.well it all looks clean.
now i had to clear the code for which i went to the passenger side and followed the directions given to clear the codes at http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_trouble.asp#1990
and guess what ?
The fans come on..and code 02 came up too
Code 02 - Power interruption
This code means power to the ECU has been disconnected and the truck has not yet been started. This code should go away as soon as the vehicle is started for the first time. Appearance of this code while driving may signal a problem within the ECU.
The code got cleared as soon as i started the truck. but the fans stayed on
the check engine light has gone but the fans wont stop now
not even if i remove the keys from the ignition..
so i had to go ahead and disconnect the fuses and they are quiet for now..
so any know how to get them back to normal now?
all have been a great help especially okierover
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3,205 Posts
The electric cooling fans on the front are on now?
And they won't go off AT ALL?
Okay my cooling fans are on constant since I owned her. But mine go off when I turn off the key. I have pulled the relay (behind passenger side footwell panel) for diagnostic and testing.
But when it's in they are on...now one of two things are wrong on mine. The code sets the fans and there is another procedure to turn set them to normal operation, AND two the mechanic that sold me the Rover wired them on with the key, because of this problem.
Neither problem/situation surprises me but what to do now?
For you 1st Rover, how long did you wait for the fans to go off? They are supposed to run until a temp sensor measures at certain temp and then they auto shut off. This could take a while in warmer climates like 10 minutes? Does anyone else know more about this?
And they won't go off AT ALL?
Okay my cooling fans are on constant since I owned her. But mine go off when I turn off the key. I have pulled the relay (behind passenger side footwell panel) for diagnostic and testing.
But when it's in they are on...now one of two things are wrong on mine. The code sets the fans and there is another procedure to turn set them to normal operation, AND two the mechanic that sold me the Rover wired them on with the key, because of this problem.
Neither problem/situation surprises me but what to do now?
For you 1st Rover, how long did you wait for the fans to go off? They are supposed to run until a temp sensor measures at certain temp and then they auto shut off. This could take a while in warmer climates like 10 minutes? Does anyone else know more about this?
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672 Posts
Perhaps disconnect battery and turn ignition key on, wait ? seconds, turn off ignition, and reconnect battery. This may reset ECU. Doubt it will work.
Look at schematic (mine has it in owners manual) to see if a fan relay is controlled by ECU. It may be related to something else moved under seat while working there. Meaure voltage going into relay.
I have had ABS pump relay stick "on".
My 1991 doesn't have fans (on radiator?).
Look at schematic (mine has it in owners manual) to see if a fan relay is controlled by ECU. It may be related to something else moved under seat while working there. Meaure voltage going into relay.
I have had ABS pump relay stick "on".
My 1991 doesn't have fans (on radiator?).
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29 Posts
How about Code 45...
Mine's displaying Code 45. This is what I found:
Code 45 - Lambda sensor B - right bank
If one of these fault codes (#44 or #45) is displayed check the wiring to that particular lambda sensor. In addition this fault will be displayed if the vehicle has a condition which causes it to run very lean or very rich on one side (example - a vacuum leak or a bad injector). This code often appears in conjunction with the misfire codes in cases of bad ignition misfire (cross-firing plug wires)
If both codes are displayed, the voltage supply to the heater coils of the sensors must be checked. Check for 12V appearing on the O2 signal lead, and check the heater circuit for shorts.
Any advice on the best way to go about TS this? Anyone else have experience with this?
Mine's displaying Code 45. This is what I found:
Code 45 - Lambda sensor B - right bank
If one of these fault codes (#44 or #45) is displayed check the wiring to that particular lambda sensor. In addition this fault will be displayed if the vehicle has a condition which causes it to run very lean or very rich on one side (example - a vacuum leak or a bad injector). This code often appears in conjunction with the misfire codes in cases of bad ignition misfire (cross-firing plug wires)
If both codes are displayed, the voltage supply to the heater coils of the sensors must be checked. Check for 12V appearing on the O2 signal lead, and check the heater circuit for shorts.
Any advice on the best way to go about TS this? Anyone else have experience with this?
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3,205 Posts
When I got my 44 and 45 code.
The problem went away when I replaced them.
http://www.okierover.com/o2sensors.htm
The problem went away when I replaced them.
http://www.okierover.com/o2sensors.htm
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29 Posts
OKIE,
Thanks for the link. Great site and information. Just purchased the same O2 sensors. Hope it works and it isn't a vacuum leak.
Thanks for the link. Great site and information. Just purchased the same O2 sensors. Hope it works and it isn't a vacuum leak.
James, I just did my 02 sensors on 1991 Range Rover with 173K. I posted the project on this site I believe.
My sensors were probably not working for at least 70K miles. No "check engine" light. When I removed the connectors to the sensors the light did go on, and back off when reconnected. Must be checking heater circuit.
My sensors were probably not working for at least 70K miles. No "check engine" light. When I removed the connectors to the sensors the light did go on, and back off when reconnected. Must be checking heater circuit.
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29 Posts
Well, the O2 sensors cleared the code! Whoo-hoo! Optest sat for about 5 miles, now I have code 19 showing up. So, where can I find descriptions of tests 17, 18, and 19 of the continuity test procedure? I like the repair manual, just find it difficult to navigate. I really don't want to just go out and replace the air flow meter or potenitiometer if I don't have to.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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