[w1jhs]

Last fall I purchased a 1962 88 and 'am just now getting to work on it. Considering its age it is in pretty good shape.

First things first. The clutch stopped working and found the slave was leaking. I got it out and found that the push rod looked worn so I purchased a new one. When I compared the old and the new the old one is about 1" longer and the piston in the old cylinder is much thicker then the new one.

Could it be that someone along the line lengthed the old(the rod) one, and will the new slave work with the shorter push rod?

Also with all the other parts I got was a new gasoline tank. I purchased a new set of gaskets, so will there be any particular problem replacing the tank?

Thanks for the help & suggestions.

Jack

 

[TerryS]

Jack,
Since none of the series experts seem to be around this weekend, I'll take a stab and guess you might have gotten a series 3 clutch rod, and you have probably figured out, that won't work).
Changing the tank isn't too tough, but is easiest done with the seat box out.
Though I cut my teeth on a 2A, and have one now(as well as a S3), I know more about later stuff like Defenders, Rangies and Disco. We have some of each of those too.
Cheers, Terry (K1EBS)

 

[Bogatyr]

w1jhs,
Yeah, as Terry mentioned, I think you have a different slave. Doesn't the series three slave mount horizontally? Don't recall offhand. You might actually be able to get it to work as long as you get the measurement set correctly from the top of the mounting bracket to the nut on the pushrod (uh was that 2 7/8"?), but you're better off with the correct part...if indeed you have the wrong one...

Fuel tank...I think you can do this without removing the seat box. Take the cover off of the seatbox under the passenger seat and undo the wires for the sending unit and the fuel lines. Pull out the draw tube and loosen the hose clamps on the fill tubes...they'll be the toughest to get to, at the back of the tank...hmm...yeah, can you get to them with the tank in place? Bother, don't remember...you'll have to check that...
Oh yeah, heh, first thing, drain the tank...
Inspect the brass screen that should surround the base of the pickup tube...if it's shot, replace it...
The tank should then be held by 5 or 6 bolts to the outriggers...
So the worst part is the fill and overflow tubes as the fill tube isn't the most flexible thing around...if you can get at that while the tank is still attached, it'll be a pretty easy job...

Bogatyr

 

[TerryS]

The Series 3 slave is on the right side of the bellhousing, and is mounted vertically. Not being a series expert, I only know this for having been leaning over the RF fender of our series 3 last evening with my son, trying to get it running (succesfully) While playing with a set of dirty points, I had a good look at it. I do know that the throwout is entirely different on an S3 gearbox. Had one lying around but let the guy who took the '73 109 have it. I'm 88% sure it is a different length rod then the S2.
As to the gas tank, Boggy is right about the fill tube connection at the tank.

See, the experts are out there. It just takes a dumass like me to bring 'em out.

 

[Moeras]

Guys stop this bus!!!

The Slave does not have a push rod!
The master is the one with the push rod!

There is a difference between the Series 2 and 3 Cluch assemblys.
As far as i know Series 3 parts dont work on series 2 assemblies.

The brake push rod should be the same as the cluch rod, so see if you can not find one.

Here is a usefull site with some S 3 manuals on try them!
http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/cars.htm

Take a look on the SIII Book 4 PFD file the cluches are in there!


The tank removal will also be someware (I did not look)


Hope you manage!

 

[Bogatyr]

Moeras,
Hmm, we must be confusing terms here, as the 2a slave I took off of the parts truck had a threaded rod coming out of it that actuates the cross rod going into the side of the tranny...By adjusting the locknut on that rod, you adjust the clutch travel...

But, I don't have a series3, so that may very well be different.

Bogatyr

 

[TerryS]

Yeah, I gotta agree, even though the slave is on the other side of the bellhousing from a 2A, it still has to have a rod from the slave piton to the throwout arm. I actuallt tried to take the slave off our parts 88 today, but wouldn't yaknow, the bolts were frozen.

 

[Moeras]

OK I concur I am the confused one.

I took a look at the book and at my Landy.

What caused the confusion is that the book did not show the push rod as it is attatched to the Cluch via a "cross-bar" In the disasembly of the cluch this is shown and described, but not in the disassembly of the slave cylinder.


However it is mentioned in the reasembly of the slave cylinder.

Sorry about that.

But we still did not help the guy as to if his part will fit or not?

 

[w1jhs]

Thanks

Thanks to all who replied. I have replaced the slave and made the 2 7/8" adj. as close as I could. Clutch seems to work much better than it did when I drove it home.

Now to get the floor panels bolted back in place. Need to get some more of those spring clips and some new ss screws and bolts.

But thanks again

Jack