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192 Posts
Does anyone know if its ok for the ignition coil on my 2.5 petrol 90 to be getting hot :dunno: . Its almost too hot to touch. I've noticed this while fault finding my indicator problem..
Coil Getting hot
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192 Posts
I guess no one knows.
But I was told buy someone the other day that they do get hot its just that most people have them under the bonnet so they never realise.
But I was told buy someone the other day that they do get hot its just that most people have them under the bonnet so they never realise.
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3,225 Posts
Marcus,
The Bosch coil, for whatever reason, seems to run hotter than the lucas coil, but even the Lucas coil runs hot. You should have a good look at your points (yeah, something the EFI people have forgotten) as they will run a higher rsesitance to ground if they are not maring up properly, or if they are partly burned.
A lot of people have opted to use a conventional coil (without the internal ballast resistor) and use an external ballast resistor.
Just the other week, I had a brand new Bosch coil puke it's guts out, all over the back end of my exhaust manifold. Engine wasn't running, but I was fault finding with the key on and the points were obviously closed.
The Bosch coil, for whatever reason, seems to run hotter than the lucas coil, but even the Lucas coil runs hot. You should have a good look at your points (yeah, something the EFI people have forgotten) as they will run a higher rsesitance to ground if they are not maring up properly, or if they are partly burned.
A lot of people have opted to use a conventional coil (without the internal ballast resistor) and use an external ballast resistor.
Just the other week, I had a brand new Bosch coil puke it's guts out, all over the back end of my exhaust manifold. Engine wasn't running, but I was fault finding with the key on and the points were obviously closed.
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192 Posts
when you say "Puke its guts out" do you mean it exploded? With mine inside is there a posibility of it "puking its guts out" on my leg?
Having said that it is no more anyway. I'm picking it up on Saturday night and there wont be a coil in sight. The 200TDI engine will be sat in it
Having said that it is no more anyway. I'm picking it up on Saturday night and there wont be a coil in sight. The 200TDI engine will be sat in it
Im having some ignition problems also on my 83 110 v8- I put a new "ACCEL supestock coil" and new plugs and she ran awesome- but now no start-I have a ballast resistor and Im getting spark from the coil and sparkplugs-cant figure out why it wont fire again.I got new points and condensor on the way.Im also thinking about replacing the old ballast resito with a mallory 700 resistor heres a link Amazon.com: Mallory 700 High Performance Ballast Resistor: Automotive what do think terry-will new points and condensor solve this?Its getting plenty of fuel-Ive been working on this all weekend
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3,225 Posts
Is the visible spark, at the plugs, a pure blue plasma, or are you seeing any yellow-orange color to it? Assuming it's a good quality blue spark, then I'm not certain your non-starting issue is related to the coil.
What's important to keep in mind when using aftermarket, externaly ballasted coils is that you have the correct ballast resister, so that you're not overheating the primary side of the coil. Most stock plug wires won't handle high intensity, 50K+ volt coil outputs, and normal compression Land Rover V8 engines don't get much added benfit from using these. I don't find any issue with using stock Lucas coils on these engines.
Sometimes it's worth just clearing the decks and getting back to basics. I believe the later Land Rover distributors which use Hall Effect pickup coils instead of points and condensers, and the correct 'amplifier' (a missnomer, as it's just an electronic switch to handle the coil primary circuit current) very reliable. Additionally, the firing pulse is very precise, as opposed to a the wider, less precise firing from mechanical points. If you don't have this distributor, with amp, you can probably get a good used one from Paul Grant.
The longer you try starting a nonfiring engine, the more likely you will foul even new plugs.
Other items to check are your cap and rotor. Rotors can frequently be cracked internally allowing a spark path through the center, to the distributor shaft.
What's important to keep in mind when using aftermarket, externaly ballasted coils is that you have the correct ballast resister, so that you're not overheating the primary side of the coil. Most stock plug wires won't handle high intensity, 50K+ volt coil outputs, and normal compression Land Rover V8 engines don't get much added benfit from using these. I don't find any issue with using stock Lucas coils on these engines.
Sometimes it's worth just clearing the decks and getting back to basics. I believe the later Land Rover distributors which use Hall Effect pickup coils instead of points and condensers, and the correct 'amplifier' (a missnomer, as it's just an electronic switch to handle the coil primary circuit current) very reliable. Additionally, the firing pulse is very precise, as opposed to a the wider, less precise firing from mechanical points. If you don't have this distributor, with amp, you can probably get a good used one from Paul Grant.
The longer you try starting a nonfiring engine, the more likely you will foul even new plugs.
Other items to check are your cap and rotor. Rotors can frequently be cracked internally allowing a spark path through the center, to the distributor shaft.
I put the old coil in with a new mallory 700 ballast resistor.The old resistor looked awful.Also replaced the rotor.She fired up and ran great so I thought the problem was solved.Shut her down and went to try again.....nothing!!Its wierd it fine when its running-but getting it started is almost impossible or a stroke of luck.Any more suggestions?I have points and condensor on the way.Also the spark kinda has a orange yellow color to it coming from the dizzy but a good strong blue spark coming from the coil lead-zapped me pretty good!
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3,225 Posts
Trucks with external ballast resistors should have a 4 terminal solinoid. The two big ones are self explanatory, one from the the battery, the other to the starter. The two small terminals are: One which energizes the solinoid, from the key, and one which get 12+ when the solinoid is energized. That terminal is used to bypass the ballast resistor when cranking, to compensate for the voltage drop whil cranking. As you have a V8, I suspect you don't have that "hot only when cranking" terminal, since V8 starters have integral solinoids.
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