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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to remove the coil pack and can't see how its screwed in can any one help???

I have a 96 disco 1 the coil pack is at the rear of the engine against the fire wall
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
????

:shifty: :shifty: :shifty: HELLO,... IS THIS THING ON ?????? :dunno: :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
????

back to the drawing board.
I finely got the coil pack out the screws are not were one would suspect them to be.

anyhow, a friend said to test the bad coils with the good ones.

fyi two not fireing.

so I switched them around,bad/good, good/bad.

re-installed the coil pack and started the engine
I removed the spark cable at the coil one by one and the same locations are not fireing???

so it was not the coils??

WHAT CAN IT BE????
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
will re check

thanks craig, I will have a second look tomorrow.

thank you,Sir.
 

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Rudy try looking at the schematics for the coil wiring. sounds like the coil pack aren't getting the signal to fire indicating a problem somewhere upstream. I'll look in my manuals and see what i can come up with for you
 

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Just looked the my manual and there isn't anything to speak of. I hate this manual there isn't a single electrical schematic for anything. At anyrate I would maybe take a known good plug wire IE one that has fired before and check all the coils on 1 coil plug up to verify that all are capale of firing, which it sounds like you have mostly done. then I would try and figure out which wire in the plug to the coil is the signal wire and start the vehicle and test light or meter that wire to see if infact it is the signal wire. If you can get this far and verify which wire is the signal wire(there will be 2 per coil plug I believe IE 1 for each spark plug unless its a wasted spark system which is unlikely) check all 4 coil connector and if the 2 plugs don't test out good. I would start following the Harness until the problem is located. Could be a bad connection, or a cooked and seperated wire, rubbed through and grounded wire, could be a bad solderjoint in the ecu that not signaling but you can track it between the ECU and the coil plug if you can find the signal wires. Let me know if there is anyway i can help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I got it.. or.. on the home stretch

thanks DiscoPilot for your help.
I was web searching yesterday and came up with some things..
1) I checked my coil wires as per Craig.
they were OK.
I busted one while checking them so I replaced them Auto Zone $ 39.99 (7gage) life time warranty.

2) this post from disco-web here is the post: but first I would like to thank Mr Tim Wilkin.

(Twilkin)
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Username: Twilkin

Post Number: 32
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 03:23 pm:

________________________________________
I have heard that carbon cleaning from a machine only cleans the intake valves, not the exhaust valves, is that true? Also if the chip upgrade solves the problem of carbon build up, would it help for the carbon already on the valves?
Tim


Tim Wilkin (Twilkin)
New Member
Username: Twilkin

Post Number: 34
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 03:07 pm:

________________________________________
A quick update. I payed $99 to get a carbon clean out from a local shop and went on a 400mile trip. No hesitation and more power on the hills (hwy 101).

Next time I wil try this:
Take an empty 2 liter pop bottle and poke a SMALL hole in the bottom on the side and another small vent hole it the top. Fill the bottle with water and block the vent hole. Remove the air filter from the car. Now start the car and hold it at a fast idle. Release the vent hole and dribble the water into the intake. Carefully, as too much water will stall the motor. Run through the entire 2 liter and virtually all the carbon will be gone.

Why this works: Carbon is water soluble. The water turns to steam in the combustion chamber and virtually pressure washes the cylinder.

No valve job, 2liter pop $1.

Tim

so I took a spray bottle and sprayed water in to the Air Intake sprayed it directly on and behind the Butterfly flap thing..

I Kidd you NOT the truck was running crappy when I started and after the second squirt of water the engine had it old deep V8 sound back, so I ran 3 qts of water threw. on the first one the tail pipe had spit out BLACK water that was the carbon.. well it works.

but the Check engine light has not gone off. I think I may need to re check it with a obdII tester.


once again thank you to all that tryed to help..

Thank you,:clap:
 

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I remember as a teen, an old guy told me to link a bottle of water with a small 1/4" pipe attatched/linked and cut a small hole in it, then have the pipe set in a position to drip the water into the intake manifold. Well its was a very crude set-up on my 1976 mini but it worked, heaps of black water from the exhaust and after a couple of miles running the car started to perform way better. This sounds like a similar trick to me and its 28 years ago when I tryed it...lol.. showing my age now :)
 

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Rudy R said:
so I took a spray bottle and sprayed water in to the Air Intake sprayed it directly on and behind the Butterfly flap thing..
Very nice indeed!

Given the issues with my wires being routed wrong, I imagine that I have some pretty bad carbon buildup myself, especially if the plugs are any indication of the inside of the cylinders.

So where exactly do I start spraying?

I want to have the motor perfectly tuned before I start adding Magnecor wires, Bosch plugs and the MSD coil - they're just sitting in my office waiting for the Beast to be ready...

It's good to hear your rig is back up to snuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
were to spray.

what I did was take off the black flex hose that clamps to the air intake.
when that is off you will see a flat when you rev the engin the flap moves.
you sqirt the water in their and try to keep the engin running the water will wash out the carbon.. if you dont want a black mess on the driveway you should put something down to catch it.
good luck
 

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This water trick sounds really good but I don't think carbon is in solution but rather suspect that it it is being 'scowered' off the combustion camber walls and is in suspension hopefully until it leaves your tailpipe. I have to wonder what this treatment might do to the cats - how much of it is being deposited on the platinum surfaces.....
Of course, there are 'combustion chamber cleaners' out there that you just pour into the intake, leave in the engine for 15 minutes and then run out again, but they are all acetone based, I think.
 

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MG
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s2a said:
No other mods required?
My Disco is what they call the "Australian package", thus it never had cats (or the carbon canister). From what I read in the manual, there's a resistor that changes in the ECU when you add/remove cats. Also, from what I understand, we only have 2 oxygen sensors (vs. 4 with the cats) - I have no idea how the absence (or presence) of 2 of these sensors requires additional modifications to the ECU.

Perhaps some of the wiser and more learned members of LRO can chip in with their knowledge...
 

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That would be great to have a bit more info re the ECU. I had mine checked out at a performance shop in Auckland and they told me that everything was running perfect ie the fuel mixtures so if there are any "BUT" questions im all ears....

I had a car with a carbon canister on it some years ago and took it off, "Ford Falcon 4.1". Wee question on the Discovery one (mine has one fitted) can this also be taken off or does it have other functions associated with the installation etc :dunno:
 
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