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Discussion Starter #41
Okay, so after looking at your fender flares and the trimming required, what are your thoughts on how to seal those multiple layers up? Fuse plastic to make it look OEM? Screw or bolt plastic to cover but not look as ubiquitous?
It brings to mind an idea I’ve had for a while... and this thread is just the place to drop it.... I’ve been planning to have custom sliders and numbers built, and one idea I’d like to incorporate is designing replacement fender flares out of steel that fit/attach to the steel bumpers and sliders.... my stopping point is these blasted rear door flare segments. Contemplating cutting the doors to allow the flare to stay on the wheel arch all in one piece.

Has anyone seen anything like this done? Hoping it can look as close to Stock as possible just out of steel and obviously widen the arch a bit in the process. I’d also likely have the flares extend beyond a bit further for greater Vehicle protection. I’ve thought of a strip of hollow rubber (like door seals) between the flare and the body to allow it to flex under impact without denting the fenders and still seal out most of the dirt and mud... hopefully better than the stock nightmare it is now.
All of those sound like good ideas. I'm not good at finish work so I'd probably make it look worse if I tried. But I suppose if I did something, I would use fiberglass. I don't care as much about making it look pretty because I'm into it cheap due to the fact that it had a blown motor when I bought it. There are some exposed areas that may cause an issue. Driver side front has the window washer fluid tank and lines and passenger rear has heated core lines exposed as well. So I'll probably wait until something breaks before I do something about it.
 

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I have also thought long and hard about this ^^

I contemplated a detachable piece, and a door affixed piece. Both options I don’t believe would respond well to rubbing along a tree or Boulder.

cutting back the door to “miss” the permanent flare is probably the best idea yet, allowing you some serious welding to the rocker and rear
 

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2005 LR3 SE V6 w/Coils & 2008 LR3 SE V8 HD w/ 2.5” rod lift
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So I had to go look again at what we are dealing with here.

Superimposed image of door open and closed showing where the flare actually lines up with the door jamb and body:
92482


Line showing it on photo of open door:
92481



Since the flare has been partially removed on my 05 (thanks to my mom's parking skills) here shows the difference of the outer line of the flare and the actual metal body behind it.
92483



However the real issue is door seals. The inner seal is fine, deep in the body, the outer seal(s) are right on the line, or slightly below (ugh) the top of the flare...
92484
 

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boulder crawling or wading... pick one not both haha
 

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You guys are getting "out there" with your ideas!!!

While I do think a "Bushwhacker" type fender flare would look cool, you want to be sure not to transmit the load of an impact into the body; so I'd agree that a material like a fiberglass or other composite would be a solid choice. I tend to like the molded plastic that is there now for its ruggedness and the fact that it's cheap to replace if you really wanted to.

With the changes you've made I'd probably focus next on re-gearing. Do you have the rear locker? If not, maybe add the ARB.
 

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you want to be sure not to transmit the load of an impact into the body
agreed, but if I understand the patriot correctly, this implementation would be welded to fabbed sliders and rear bumper
while certainly more than I'd undertake, I think it's viable
 
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Discussion Starter #47
From what I understand, and correct me if I'm wrong but the HSE that I have is the HD model with a factory rear locker. It has the full sized 19"spare. And also a servo on the rear end. When I took it off road this weekend both the rears spun but only one of the fronts. I experimented with rock crawl mode and trail decent but not sure if that locked the front. Do we know if the front should be locked?
 

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run your vin through a decoder, that’s how I’ve been checking prospective LR4 purchases for the HD package. If you have the 4x4 info screen, it should show the rear diff/locker on the display also.

all of the tips & tricks I’ve read for identifying HD trucks haven’t been 100% accurate other than running the VIN.

Do we know if the front should be locked?
only rear locker with HD
 

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....agree that it's tricky Rev but if he saw the actuator motor on the top of the rear diff, that's a solid indicator. That, and you know....both rear wheels spinning. The fronts don't lock....the LR3 never came with a front locker as an option or otherwise. My opinion? It doesn't really need it. 4ETC works well and the rear diff is the more important one of the two. Would a front locker be nice? Sure....but I haven't lost sleep over that in 15 years of ownership.

I'm almost never "traction limited." It's almost always approach/departure and especially breakover angle or generally limited clearance at the rocker panel.
 

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@HOUM_WA that’s true, but I’ve never looked at my rear diff, and I know that LR has been lazy about this stuff... like including the locking diff on the early D2, even without the means to engage it... or seat heaters installed but no button to activate lol.
 

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Damn... I was thinking about going to have a look (-;
 
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Discussion Starter #53
 

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I hope it broke on a tree stump in your backyard and not 5mi up the trail!
 

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Whoever guessed front CV joints is the winner. Like we didn't see that coming.
Just watched the videos. You definitely tested the truck. Was surprised your tires didn't look more deflated. For stuff like that you could probably have dropped down as low as 10-15 psi.

Bummer about the CV joint but also not surprised.

Your marshalling committee needs work though. :)


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I went back and watched some of your videos, now I see lol.

you might’ve benefited from some deflation, but your suspension is super bouncy! Hard to maintain consistent, confident maneuvers when your tires are bouncing like basketballs
 
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